My father left me a 1945 39A that has had a rough life. It has been through a fire, and had the barrel cut down to 15-7/8" to reciever...16-1/2" to breech. It is in the white (sanded down when I was 13...33yrs ago). Some reciever pitting which I cannot stone away. Markings better than fair (masking taped them years ago). Replacement walnut stocks (got cheap becuase I had to repair the stock), still not inletted nicely...beyond my skills All springs missing, except extractor. 95% there. No front sight dovetail, no muzzle crown, no dovetail for front tube mount. No tube assembly (would need to be cut down anyway). Cost of bluing, tube assy, and springs would be more than it is worth. Maybe an alternate finish? Scope for the boys? Thoughts???

If it has been in a structure fire it probably has been exposed to 900-1500 degrees, maybe more. You have no idea what the metal has been subjected to.

Not a good thing, even at .22 LR pressures.

First priority take the receiver to a good gunsmith who might be able to evaluate the metal condition.

If salvageable you could rebuild with new barrel, wood, springs, spending a lot of money (think polishing a turd) to restore the rifle.

Wall hanger decoration piece is probably your best bet .........

The cost of a vintage 39A in good shape will be a lot less than restoring your rifle.

Thanks for the very sound advice. I just want to make a shooter for the boys (already have a dozen or so .22s, but could always use another). I'm an engineer by trade, and I appreciate the comments on the temperature and how it affects grain structure & metallurgy. I think it was very minor fire, as none of even the thinnest parts, hammer, trigger, tang, or lever exhibit any discoloration whatsoever. I think the wood just got scorched, and it got a liberal dousing by a fire department.
If I wanted to polish a turd...what is an alternative to bluing? Black Oxide? This new cerema-paint?

You know the answer, it's junk. You just needed to hear a second opinion. Sell or give it to your local gunsmith for future favours.

why try to injure your children?

As I alluded to before, I am an engineer by trade (combustion). I have an advanced knowledge of metallurgy (ferrous, non-ferrous), refractory, glass, plastics, and some ceramics. I also know how guns are proofed....and have been proofed for a hundred years. I have proofed muzzleloaders that I have built from kits, and also some I restored (I use a tire and a string...and stand back). By the way, it is similar to the way you test an industrial burner...although in that case you must effect a timed & controlled EXPLOSION on a burner and not show any failure mode (an ANSI test), it can sustain damage...just not failure.

It is possible to proof a .22, but I do not have access to the rounds, nor do I wish to make them. I tested this rifle for stress fractures with mold-makers penetrate die & developer, and also fired it multiple times as a single shot with several rounds of hyper velocity modern loads. If I had any concerns, they are long gone. I could ask a buddy to magnaflux it for me, but I don't see the need. The little rig will be used for .22 shorts to shoot squirrels and tin cans.

Thanks for the concern. I have again been duly warned, but I am wearing my big-boys pants. If for any reason my fly is still open, by all means tell me to zip up. Otherwise, I will trudge along.

I honestly am not attempting to be a smart @$$, and I normally don't go to this length to explain myself...ever. I only wanted to alleve your fears of my endangering my children.

Why not have a brinell hardnes or rockwell test. Iam sure you know of a Met. lab in your area.

Why? The fellow is a qualified expert and has evaluated the piece, identified the deficiencies and it's a farkin' .22 RF.

I'd piece it back together and likely put a new front blade on the barrel, maybe fill the pits with some space age filler like bondo and cerakote till it turned whatever color you want. Alternatively, Burchwood Casey makes a good paste blue that works well.

http://www.gunpartscorp.com/

If you're intent on shooting shorts you might give thought to a rebarrel and chamber cut for shorts. Stock length barrel, proper twist is 20" for shorts, loading tube and mag tube are likewise stock then as well as sight geometry. Skip the factory replacement and microgroove theory.

You might want to check out the Laurel Mountain Forge Browning Solution. Easy to use, and very forgiving. I have used it on knife blades and muzzleloaders; you can do anything from a patina to plum brown to blue with it.

Send it here for refurb .....

V
http://www.grizzlycustom.com/custom_lever_action_rifle_backpacker_lite_scout.html

I got a somewhat rough 39a, though not in as bad shape as yours. Broken firing pin, missing the cartridge guide, rear sight and pin to keep the magazine tube in place. Parts are available from Brownells, and fairly reasonable.

After some fitting of the firing pin to get consistant ignition and adding a setscrew for trigger overtravel it is probably our favorite 22rf.



The only problem is getting it out of my boys hands long enough to shoot it.

They aren't making 39a's like they used to so IMHO they're worth whatever it takes to put them back in action.

I saw "set screw for overtravel" and was wondering how you did it.

Here is my '70's 39 and the set screw I installed. Works great.

DF

I'm pretty sure I copied how you did it. I remember someone posting a pick and figuring I could do that.

Flattered someone was paying attention...

Sorta figured that one out on my own, had never seen one just like it. You can't do that with centerfire Marlin levers, they're set up differently.

DF