The check engine light had come on in the 2001 Silverado that my son drives and I took it out to the dealership today and it appears that I need two O2 sensors and a fuel filter. Was quoted a cost of $700 for the fix.

1. Does that seem like the right amount? It is the 5.3 liter motor with 168k miles

2. What is the down side of not doing this repair right away?

Thanks

The fuel filter is about 8 bucks, and takes probably 10 minutes to change. Not sure about the price of O2 sensors, but they aren't tough to deal with on that truck. mtmuley

Ballpark of $50 each on the O2 sensor. The code the truck throws should tell what sensor it is, there are 4 sensors for a 5.3. Drivers and Passengers side, pre and post catalytic converter on each side.

A can of PB Blaster, a deep socket that fits over it, and a long breaker bar is what it took to get mine out, and some cuss words. Don't mess with the special O2 sensor socket, they're flimsy. Just cut the wire off flush with the sensor and use a normal socket. Not difficult, I just thought I was going to strip the threads out as I was removing it the entire time. The new one threaded in perfectly and the code didn't return.

The last one I did was the drivers side, pre-cat. I think I had to remove the front driveshaft going from the transfer case to the front axle, which was 4 extra bolts to pull.

The only problem with the 02 sensors is that the front one can be a bear to get at sometimes. The one on my van went out and it took a guy with 3 elbows to reach it. OTOH, I recently changed one on a work truck that was as easy as checking the oil - right up on top and no obstructions.

168K, just replace all of them. Spray some penetrant oil on them while it is still hot, let them soak over night, and remove in the morning. Disconnect the battery while you are doing these and the fuel filter. $700.00 is a little high, but some of the heated O2's can get a bit pricey. Quite often you can just use a 7/8 box end wrench that is slid over the connector.

^^^ Use something like Liquid Wrench, let it soak, and then use a propane torch ... if needed.

I just went through the same kind of thing to fix an exhaust leak on my truck. There were three bolts/studs/nuts that I had to heat to avoid breaking them.



I forgot to add ....

DON'T USE A TORCH ON THE FUEL FILTER.

Thanks for the information everyone!

IIRC, 2001 fuel filter inside tank. Maybe I'm wrong.
I know on my old '96, the filter was on the frame on the driver's side. That was an easy one to do as long as you released the pressure valve near the intake.
Otherwise you may get a gas bath. don't ask me how I know.

2003 fuel filter was inside of frame rail, drivers side.

IF it has a fuel filter, it is on the drivers side frame rail. Some lighter duty vehicles didn't have one.
Fish Head, if you ever come across it, get som Zep Twister in the white can. I have used Liquid Wrench, W-fkn-D 40, Kroil, and a whole bunch of others. The Zep is great stuff.
And +1 on no heat on the fuel filter!

I'm not sure about this one but some of those fuel filters take a special tool to remove. It's under $10.

Yeah, a split plastic or metal ring to release the spring lock or fingers on the inside of the fitting. A business card or thin flexable platic rolled up can sometimes work in a pinch.

No special tool needed. I believe a 9/16 flare wrench (maybe 5/8) will do the trick. That truck doesn't have the Ford better idea fittings. mtmuley

If it is the nut/o-ring type, a 16mm and a 20mm. GM uses those other locks on a lot of fuel modules and lines at the fuel rail.

A set of open end wrenches is all that is needed as mtmuley said above to do the fuel filter on this era of GM truck. In the infinite wisdom of GM, on the 2007 and newer, there is no replaceable fuel filter. Simpler is better right?