In my 95 wrangler I change my oil every 5k. I also change my manual transmission oil and transfer case fluid but I haven't really done a schedule. And differentials,,,? How often, mileage wise do you guys change other fluids. I don't do a ton of miles per year so I have been changing other fluids about every 2 years so its probably been around 20-25 K. I'm thinking that's to soon.

Rotella T6 5w40 in crankcase
RoyalPurple syncromesh in transfer case
Rotella strait 30 weight in transmission
Royal Purple in differentials

I do the transfer case/front and rear diff at 50,000

Diffs, transfer case and tranny at 50k.

Every 25K in the tranny, since you are using a good old 30 wt...

if you have Royal Purple elsewhere, I don't see a reason to ever change it...

200K plus on Mobil Synthetic 75 W 90 in my 4 Runner's trans, have given zero problems....and actually last time I checked it, I was surprised how clear and new it still looked...

clear and new doesn't necessarily means that it might be perfect, but its doing a good job and I don't believe it needs a change...

Factory part number for the tranny fluid is 10w30 motor oil. The owners manual is a misprint, it says to use GL5 75 90 gear oil. GL5 has sulfur and will corrode brass syncros. Strait 30 wt rotella is actually recommended for HD gearboxes and transmissions.

in that case, I'd just run Mobil 1 10W30...it will flow better at low temps than dino 10W30, yet will have more film strength and high temp operation capabilities than any dino Straight 30 weight..

OEM equivalent "fluid" changed every 50k and zero issues in 36 years.

I only change the motor oil, everything else is on it's own.

Remember the good old days, when there were Vegas and Pintos and AMC Gremlins on the road?

you NEVER had to change any of the oils on those vehicles....

just add daily and you were good to go...

Ya' make a living changing oil?

Me or Seafire?

My older brother bought a brand new Pinto when they first came out. He drove the car across country without incident. Always said it was a good car.

My older sister had a used Gremlin that either her or one of her boyfriends beat the snot out of.

Dan

Gremlin's had a tough motor and tranny.. the rest of the car was crap... especially the body.. rusted out real quick in Northern States with road salt...like any other AMC product..

Same with the running gear in Pintos....their problem was they were a cheap little car...people use to never do any maintenance on them...especially oil changes....

either ran them dry on oil...or not changing the oil killed the engine..good little motor tho, the main application for that Ford motor ( before going into the Pinto) was for Refer units on OTR Semis...

nope, just have always run a lot of miles on vehicles annually being a traveling fool in my college days, and then for business in my adult professional life...

owned VWs in my earlier years.. and you learned a lot about oil if you wanted to keep a VW alive...

use 10/30 or 10/40 in a VW motor in warm weather, 50K or so and you were doing major valve jobs frequently...

did work at service stations in High School and in college during the summer...

I just came in the house from changing the power steering fluid in my Tacoma. As OCD as I am about vehicle maintenance, I'd never changed the steering fluid. After 175K the factory fill was looking a little brown, and there was some dark residue on the little nub of a dipstick. I bought two quarts of Mobil 1 synthetic ATF, and for a total of $16 and an hour in the driveway I've got a fully flushed and refilled steering system. I KNOW I'll sleep better tonight.

I have been driving 55 years and have never changed any manual tranny oil, rear differential, oil brake fluid, or power steering fluid. Never had one fail either. I did buy a 61 Ford wagon that had a blown transmission that I rebuilt so it did b get new oil. Also a lot of those older cars ,if you changed the brakes, the wheel cylinders were prone to start leaking so they got honed and resealed and new brake fluid.

The only time I changed antifreeze was when the radiator needed fixed.
In the 50's I use to rebuild those Chevy 2 speed Power Glides for people for $50.
I'm a compulsive one for making sure the driveline and front ends are greased though

Heat destroys oil faster than anything and all that stuff doesn't get hot enough to do it. Unless dirt gets in, there's nothing to break the oil down.

Oops. I forgot one thing. I have an old 1952 Ford 8N and I changed the differential/transmission grease from 90 wt to Transhydraulic fliud because at less than 10 degrees, I could not shift it and the rear hydraulic pump took 1/2 hour to warm up enough to lift the 3 pt hitch.

222Rem, I did the same thing a few years ago. My wrangler was a tad low on ps fluid so I pumped the old fluid out and put new in. I fell better after I do maintenance on my rides too.

Living in MN for a long time, my engines would outlast my car's body...

20 years in Oregon, my car bodies are lasting as long as the engines...

gonna retire a 20 year old Camry soon and replace it with a used Honda Pilot...

334K on the Camry with 20 to 25K oil changes using Mobil One in it, with filter changes every 5K...and add...

seal- hardly a chemical engineer, but I spent 30+ years working on turbine aircraft, where all lubes including engine and airframe were pure synthetics.

The new engine and trans oils, especially the pure synthetics, will give you much more protection than any dino oil, and for a much longer period. The changes are up to you, but I change filters much more often than oil on all of my vehicles as far as engines and trans are concerned.

Differentials, transfer cases, and power steering pumps will also suffer less wear using pure synthetics than dino-based oils or blends, as the synthetics won't absorb moisture and don't break down nearly at all with age, especially compared with dino oil.

Obviously, TN climate doesn't require nearly as much attention to viscosity as it does up here in the north, but longevity of the lubricant is still much longer in the other fluid parts of a vehicle if synthetics are used. I especially prefer Schaeffer or Royal Purple in the diffs, xfr, trans, and pwr steering pumps. I've experienced less noise, higher mpg's, and the peace of mind knowing I really don't need to address them for the rest of the life of the vehicle.
Jim

I'm gonna do a change in the transmission in a week or two. I'm gonna go with Redline MTL. Its been recommended over and over on wranglerforum. I'm thinking its a ester based synthetic as opposed to PAO like amsoil or grade 4 fake synthetic like Mobil or most of the other synthetic oils. Even the T6 Rotella I use is just hydrocracked grade 4 dino oil, but it gets awesome UOAs and i can get a gallon of it for 20 buck when its on sale.

I'm gettin' old; I forgot about RedLine. Back in my go-fast boating days, I lunched my share of outdrive gearsets, and after switching to their Shock-Proof Heavy gear lubricant in my Merc outdrives, I never had another failure. I've never used their products in automotive applications, but it sure worked well in the marine environment. I believe Summit is still a big distributor for them.