I realize I could be chasing a handful of possible issues

1987 Ford Ranger 2.9

Basically my run around fishing/hunting truck, maybe put 500-700 miles on it a year.

Started to occasionally last year studder/die for a moment after being warmed up. You could drive it all day and it wouldn't do anything and the next time 10-15 minutes into whatever trip you were on it would do it. Might happen once or twice and not happen again.

Started to increase in frequency, but still pretty irregular.

Yesterday it was fine in the AM, got to work (9 miles away). Had to make a field visit (reason I took the truck) and it was pretty bad after I started to head back.

Than it didn't miss a beat for 20 miles and got really bad. It's a manual, so I left it in gear and it finally picked up again.

Did what I had to do, headed back and missed maybe one time really lightly.


Think I changed the plugs on it a handful of years ago (not many miles). Wires are old, but in decent shape. Cap/rotor were changed last year.

Wondering what to start with first? Thinking maybe the fuel pump(s). Dread that thought on a 29 year old MN vehicle. Would probably pull the box off, figuring that would be easiest.

Any other thoughts opinions. Kind of partial to this thing, my dad bought it new and I really like it for a beater but hate to start throwing a bunch of money at it.


Sorry for the long read....


Thanks

Could be anything, bad fuel, plugged fuel filter from a rusty tank etc.

You're just going to have to try to narrow it down one thing at a time.

Start with each system, check it out, then move to the next one.

Run it at night and watch the engine in the dark. Look for sparks off the wires and distributor that would indicate a voltage leak.

I have an 87 Bronco II with the same engine. I'm having a head gasket problem with a little water leaking into a cylinder. That will make it miss some. Are you losing water but not seeing a leak or water in the oil?

EGR valve?

My 84.5 2.8L just died one day. Turned out to be the ignition module on the back of the distributer.

Catalytic Converter could be getting clogged or breaking apart inside and blocking the exhaust. Had it happen twice and was only when warmed up.

Hope to start put-zing with it this weekend, weather permitting.

Thought about the head gasket previously, doesn't really loose any coolent and the radiator doesn't bubble. I know these 2.9's are notorious for cracked heads as well. Doesn't really have those signs either.

Might have to just think about moving on, not going to just start throwing money at it left and right.

and here I always thought that was just the way they were from the factory... some bright Idea Fuel Saving Plan mandated by the EPA...

or another example of Ford "Quality"...

Everything flipping vehicle has it's issues, much less any that have spent 29 years in MN/WI winters.

ya , check the plug wires in the dark....they can look OK and still be arcing all over the place

She died about 3 blocks from my place yesterday... Was going to go to the dump quick and come back and start working on her

Fuel pump ordered, so I'll start there. Soaked the crap outta the bolts holding the bead on and hopefully that's not too much of a pain in the a$$ to take off and slide back vs going in from underneath.

I had an '85 F150 with the 300 six and it was notorious for having the bolts that hold the exhaust manifold come loose as well as the mounting bolts for the carb. After a while it just became routine to grab a ratchet and some sockets and crank them all back down.

Sounds like bad gas. If it sets a lot run non ethnol with some stabilizer..

It does normally sit quite a bit, but the last few months I've been using it quite a bit and have filled it up a few times at the same station I normally use with no issues in my other vehicles.

This problem has been progressively getting worse and finally escalated.

I just put a new starter and transfer case motor on it this winter along with four tires, so I'll throw a few more bucks at it and hopefully buy a few more years.

Check the fuel pressure, there is a port on the fuel rail. Should be around 39 psi. Also, have you ever replaced the IAC valve (idle air control)? They have a tendency to get plugged and stick. Pull it off and look in the port hole. Probably plugged.

I had an 87 Ranger that did the same thing. The problems. as I recall, were always electrical. The last time it died on the road was because of a bad "fusable link", which was a cable on the left side of the engine compartment when viewed from the front.

That sounds like maybe the shutdown for the fuel pump in the event of an accident perhaps?

There's a relay in the passenger side of the foot-well that does that and that's been by passed a LONG time ago.

Sounds like you are on the right track with the fuel pump. You will need to empty the tank and drop it of course. Be ready for the possible need to cut and replace the hanger Bolts, they might be too rusted for the nuts to come off.

Just a suggestion...I would replace the whole Fuel Module rather than just the pump, screen and seal because the gauge resistor will also probably be about worn through.

One thing about this, even if it ends up not being the fuel pump it was probably ready to quit any day anyhow so it's good Preventative Maintenance towards the future.

The line quick connector clips are fragile...

Surgery started yesterday afternoon - Got three of the six bed bolts removed, cut off the other three.

So I'm going in from the top after lunch and when a buddy will be here to help lift the bed off. No way I was going to attempt it from below.

Have a whole new pump/module ready to slip in (hopefully easily) and will keep my fingers crossed from there. I'll go after the relay next if need be. After that, I might be parting ways.

Contemplating buying a new crew cab 1/2 ton and getting rid of my jeep that I normally use for a daily driver.

3/4 diesel sits in the garage for heavy hauling needs. Not going to use that as a daily driver and it's paid for and really not depreciating in value with the ever increasing cost of heavy duty trucks.

Long story short, wish me luck... Really like my little truck and never concerned about it being dirty or getting scratched.

I have found an even easier way than that...take the loader and turn the truck upside down and just lift the tank out.

Just ribbing you a bit here, Removing the bed is indeed better than cutting an access hole through it, seen this done before.

Hate to see you give up on that little truck, in reality they are pretty good little rigs and it is normal that little things go wrong with every vehicle and the next vehicle might even have more unseen problems.

At least you "Know" this one.

Should have taken pics...

Surgery went well though, wasn't pretty going in although lifting the bed off was a piece of cake.

Tension ring or whatever it's called the hold the fuel pump in was NASTY. Not sure if it's ever been out before or not?

Soaked the crap outta it and one person on each side taping and in finally popped.

New pump slipped in, lines connected and she's ALIVE


Need to drill a couple new holes in the bed to fasten it back down as I lost three of the old bolts/holes that existed, but not overally concerned about the looks at this point.

Hope to get a few more years outta the old girl, especially after looking closer at new truck prices....



On a side note, with a little more patience I could have probably gotten at least one more of the bolts out of the bed and it's truly the only way to go about this kinda job on a rusty old truck.

That's why I'm always half afraid until you've owned something for a while. I've know this truck since it was showroom new and while it has it's quirks it's been a good truck overall.

Got it going! Good to hear problem is solved and there is nothing more to chase!