I'm sure this has been discussed here, but my search yesterday turned up nothing.

Is there a real need for "AR" series dies? Or will a standard match set of dies work fine. Gonna be full-length sizing of course.

I've used RCBS and Redding dies to this point and would prefer to stay with those. Considering the RCBS Competition or Gold Metal Match series. Or Redding Master Hunter or National Match sets.

Plan is to start with Lapua brass, fed primers, 168 and/or 175 SMK and IMR4064. And make adjustments as needed.

Any suggestions or other things I should consider?

Thanks fellows.

David

any 308 dies will work, even Lee. Anyone that brings ups small base dies either has a problem gun or they just don't know what they are talking about. Currently using Redding.

Thanks Jimmy. This is my first time reloading for an AR of any sort, so I needed to ask. I am a Redding fan. But I'm good with RCBS as well. Can't say that either has shown to be much different for me. Little things make the Redding in my eyes, like adjustments, etc. I'll likely go that route.

Thanks again

I use RCBS and Hornady, no complaints.

+1, no need for any special dies for an AR, in 308 or any other caliber.

My 308 dies are Forster and Lee, both work fine for the AR.

Thanks fellows. Got 50 rounds of Lapua match ammo ordered up for break in and a few groups and function testing. So I need to get some dies and components stocked up for this thing. She should be ready for testing by next week.

I use Lee for a 308 AR

I have used both. You don't need the small base dies. I check every piece in a Wilson case gauge. If the brass will fall in the gauge, you will never have a problem. I loaded 500 pieces of once fired Speer 223 for an AR with out trimming. Dumass mistake! Had to shoot it up in a bolt gun. You might want to check length. Dont learn the hard way. Case gauge good for length also.

It's going to depend a lot on the gun whether you need small base dies. I would say that probably 80+% of M1As need small base dies to get the fired brass to subsequently chamber in a minimum chamber. AR-10s usually do a little better. I would still personally use small base because a) that's what I've got and b) it injects some extra margin into the system. But if you're not having problems with other dies there's no reason to switch.

DPMS AR-10s have more of a reputation for needing small base dies. Not sure if that's changed over time.

Spending the dime on Lapua and not having a case gauge is a waste of good brass....

So is this what I need to check the brass? I assume this checks the length and the shoulder set-back or headspace or whatever you call it. Is that correct?

Appreciate the info guys.

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/880646/le-wilson-case-length-headspace-gauge-308-winchester

That will work. I prefer the Sinclair bump gauge though. It attaches to calipers and inserts will work with an entire case family instead of one particular cartridge.

I'll check into that. I was actually just looking for one of these in 264 WM as well, so that might be the answer.

Thanks!

RCBS

I have a palmetto, and it needs small base dies, it has a very tight chamber. I use the RCBS dies and they work great.

Consider the RCBS X-dies, they have a shoulder that prevents the brass from flowing into the neck. Larry Gibson, noted reloader and on-line author, has run some tests in M-1As and he got over a dozen or more reloads per case.

Follow their case prep instructions VERBATIM!

If you use X-dies, make sure you chamfer your case mouth. The feature that keeps the case from growing also flattens the chamfer.

Most dies should work fine.

I've had to buy small base dies for some brass I was given that was evidently fired from a M60.

If you're full length sizing consider a Forster die with the neck custom honed to be a good fit with the brass you're using.