I am wanting to put a pistol grip stock on a #3. I also want to modify the lever. I have seen #3 levers modified to look like the #1 lever. Has anyone tried to modify the #3 lever to look more like an 1885 lever and will it work on a pistol grip stock?

Yes I have and NO it doesn't work very well... The best conversion I've seen, was to make the lever look somewhat like a Dakota M-10

GH

I was afraid of that! Thanks!!!

I just reread your post... I assumed that you were putting #1 wood on a #3. (Which I have on 3 of my #3's. IF one were using an after market stock, and wanted to open up the grip a bit, it should work well.

Problem is, #1 wood does not leave adequate space in front of the grip for ones fingers. Thus the fingers are pinched. If the loop on the lever is closed up, then it's a long reach to the trigger and one cannot put his finger in the loop of the lever. Kind of a "catch 22".

I have yet to find a workable solution...

Look up Ian_(VA) post on the one that he made up... It looked pretty good.

I re-did a 45-70 # 3 using a 222 Remington barrell and #1 wood. I actually prefer the shape of the #3 trigger guard/action release to that of the #1. It is more artistic, more flowing, if you will.

Rolly, Thanks!

I have a #1 Stock and tried it on the #3, my fingers are too "fat" to work comfortably. I am afraid in a 375 win, I wouldn't "enjoy" shooting it. I too like the shape of the #3 lever, it just doesn't work for what I am trying to do.

GH - Thanks! I really like that rifle, it's pretty close to what I am trying to do. I really like the way the scope is mounted.

For me, it seems like the LOP and eye relief is always a battle. But on the #3, when I use the weaver mounts and a shortened stock, it comes up perfect.

I think this lever is probably what you need.....


or, another look.......

I would agree. It's pretty nice!

I found this one on the internet. It is bent away from the #1 grip but not closed up as much as some I've seen.

Bruce

It does look good with more room than a "staight/stock" #3 lever.

Thanks, Dennis.

AJD, Here's the one I did:

http://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/1176238/1


By the way, It's for sale and I'll be putting it on the classified section when I get a chance. I've enjoyed it, but I'm starting to learn that I enjoy putting them together even more, so on to the next project...

Thanks Ian! Great job, have you hunted with it?

I am pondering a re-barrel to something light in weight in a 6.5 or 257 cal.

I like the idea of the barrel shank, with a cantilevered mount. That would go a long way to solving the eye relief problem. If one of the aluminum one piece rings and mounts could be adopted it would also solve some of the weight issues with the Ruger rings and quarter-rib.

I have a Dednutz one piece ring and mount that came off my Kimber. The whole thing weighs 3oz. Something like is what I am thinking.

The other issue is what weight barrel to use for proper balance.

I dropped the rifle off last week to begin the lever work. There is some pitting on the rifle, I'll have the lever blued,and the smith wanted to blue the rest of the gun also. I was reluctant to have the rifle blued without having shot enough to get a handle on it's accuracy. My concern is the condition of the barrel. I am thinking I'll go ahead and blue the rifle. If I have to replace the barrel, I'll have to have it blued. If I blue a new barrel at a later date, will the bluing match up if I go that route or will it matter?

AJD,
If you are having the Dakota 10 style lever mod done, please ask your gunsmith what he used for a trigger guard...
As far as the bluing goes I personally won't haven't it done until I was completely satisfied that I won't be making anymore changes on the rifle..
Photos please after the lever mod is done..
thx

I don't believe he is doing a separate trigger guard. I think he will cut and reposition a portion of the lever to the bottom of the integral trigger guard.

AJD
Barrel contour and weight is highly selective and what is good for one of us another will find as a non-fit.
PacNor has my RUG#3 now rebarreling it to a 6.5x55. After holding a #1A I decided that I wanted that barrel contour, weight, and length. (22inches) The thing just fit so well that I abandoned my previous barrel drawings. The stock length, thickness, and shape will contribute significantly to the feel of your rifle. This is the third design for this particular rifle. 3 barrela and 3 sets of wood.
Best of luck with your build.
I'd agree about bluing, wait till it's done. Besides there is something very cool about a "Parts n Pieces" unfinished rifle.
Best to you
Jim

Rug3-I am considering a 22 or 23" barrel. I like the weight and balance of the 1A but figure the sight on the end of the barrel changes the balance from a clean barrel. My #3 contour also balances nicely. I cut off a 1B to 23" and the rifle is heavy but doesn't seem to be excessively barrel heavy. Sooo barrel weight and contour is undecided.

Tell Scott I said hello and I was through Buffalo Sat Night.

I have a pistol grip installed on my #3. The leaver did require some modification which was a slightly greater bend. I'm really pleased with the aesthetics. Would like to see how your #3 turns out.

Jim

Jim,
Do you have a picture of yours?

Pictures, I have. Computer literacy???

Actually I have pictures of it with the 30-284 barrel on it.

Currently it is with UPS, just released from PacNor, having had a new 6.5x55 rebarreling job. When I get it back I will need to build a set of scope bases because I'm not using the Ruger quarter rib and I'll be making a new forearm.
I might be able to install the stock so that the leaver configuration could be seen. I might find someone to show me how to get the picture from camera to forum.

Jim

Can you email the pictures?

Sent pictures today.
When we bent the leaver my gunsmith and I put the wood on, removed the leaver, and replaced it with a piece of #10 copper wire that we could easily bend to different configurations until I had what I wanted. Surprisingly, it turned out similar the original. This is to be a hunter and in northern NY I have hunted in temps down to -20. There needs to be room for a gloved hand so I covered my hand in shop gags to duplicate glove thickness and we went at it. There appears to be a very malleable steel it the leaver which lent itself to several heatings and bendings. It polished well and took the bluing nicely.
Have fun with it.
Best to you.
Jim

Jim,
The pictures didn't come through.

Can we try again?

AJD

Jim-

I visited my gunsmith earlier today, and we discussed bending instead of cutting and welding the lever. I'm interested in seeing how yours turned out. The gloved hand is also a concern I have with the lever.

I also asked him to check the barrel while he has it to see if it is worth blueing or needs replacement.

I am also interested in seeing how your scope blocks turn out.

Thanks,
AJD

I am posting these pictures for Rug3 and his current unfinished project. The 6.5 SAGE













He has modified the lever on a #3 and rebarreled. Jim please fill everyone in on the details.

AJD

AJD,
Thanks for the posting.

The leaver configuration is what was of interest here. It needed reshaping for this stock. We removed it and put a piece of #10 copper wire in it's place. The wire bent easily to the shape deeded and we had a template. The steel in this particular leaver appears to be quite malleable and was easy to heat and bend in a vise. My smith bent, polished, and blued it.

The rifle; Got it as a bunch of parts in an oatmeal box and a messed up chambering job in an aftermarket barrel. Rechambering it became futile.

Wood;
It came with a sawed off forend and some badly hacked up aftermarket wood. There was just enough wood to shape this stock to fit me. Aftermarket forend was left with little to work with. The forend in the pictures is borrowed from my son's gun for these photos. Another forend is currently being whittled.

Barrel; What's a 6.5 Sage?
It is a PacNor, polygonal, 8"twist, Ruger 1A modified, 22", 6.5x55 built with the idea that it will someday be passed on to a grandson whose middle name is Sage. Thus 6.5 Sage.

It is far from finished. Some real fun ahead.

AJD, thanks again for the posting.

Jim

Jim,

You mention a modified 1a modified, how has it been modified?

Do you know the current weight?

What about scope mounting, how do you plan to do that?

Looks good.

AJD

Barrel;
The valley in front of the shank has been flattened slightly, that's all.

I don't have a current weight but with the previous barrel it was notably lighter then my Kimber 8400 Montana 300WSM.

The Ruger Quarter rib will not be on it.
We are working on various mock-ups for the front ring and base. It may include an offset Ruger ring. The scope being used is short.
The rear mounting system will be a Ruger (turn in) base with an offset ring towards the back so that the scope will have proper eye relief. I have to get the ring back over the frame in order to have the scope where I want it. The #1 and #3 Rugers tend to not shoot well if one base is attached to the frame and another to the barrel. They also don't particularly like a base that's attached to both barrel and frame simultaneously.

Note the trigger. I installed a Moyers but had problems with it. I found this Kepplinger used at my local gun shop and really like it. Currently it's at 1.5lbs and about 6oz on set. I may put more trigger pull weight on it for hunting.

More to come.

Thanks for asking
Jim

Isn't that amazing work be Ian (VA)?
Now, that's a #3!
Jim