i recently picked up #1vt in 220, and a freind of mine has a 2506 #1b that hes done all acuracy tricks on and its not shooting as well as my out of box 220. hes done alot of tinkering adn reloading to get the 25 to where its at and it shoots real good. but when he shot my 220 his mouth dropped and his eyes got big.

i told him that the target block at the reciver isnt touching like the rail is on his b model and could be the culpret, id read on this before ever havn a #1.

i never could have imagined the difrence could be so exstreme. might also just be one heck of a 220.

can the rail ridding agaisnt the reciver make that much difrence?????

im asking because i now want a #1 in hunting caliber, but the 2506 is all i can get in v model. wich isnt bad but i already have another rifle chamberind in 2506

im thinkin a 3006 #1b blued, and file the the back of the rail so theres 1/32"s or so of clerance from the reciever.

kay ill stop rambleing,

thanks for the great new forumn and just in time to.

thanks
Evan

Evan,

Don't the #1 Vs in .25-06 come with blocks instead of a quarter rib? I thpught all the Vs were profiled the same.

I have wanted one for a long time and almost bought several of them but that shorter barrel turned me off. My accurized 26 inch 1B shooots into bug holes and I cannot see any reason to give up any velocity and add weight to the package.

1B

yeah the vts have blocks instead of the quarter rib,

the 2506 in the v model was tempting when i picked up the 220. but i didnt need two 2506 rifles at the time. maybe i do now <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif" alt="" />

I've got a 1B in 22 Hornet. I took a small round file to the holes in the quarter rib, and "elongnated" them. This lets the rib expand/contract without binding as the barrel heats up.
This trick cut my groups in half.
Virgil B.

you elongated the mounting holes in the quarter rib. ??? wouldnt that allow the rail to move makeing it inconsitant with the barrel.

wouldnt tieing a acope between target blocks in a sence make the blocks one solid chunk from block to block just like the quarter rib.

I think that only one hole is elongated with the axis of the bore. Right VB?

The theory is that the fix keeps the quarter rib from binding during barrel movement. The screw holds the rib in position in terms of lateral movement, the lift is minimal, and it all returns the same position each time.

I never had the job done on any of mine . My gunsmith just checks the rib for slight variations off true and mills it right. He figures it is the variance that causes the problem, not the firm, two screw anchor.

Hey, but how many ways can that Ruger cat be skinned?

Someone the other day came up with a new one, tightening the butt stock into the receiver after each shoot! My gunsmith says
it has to be torqued in at a precise pressure amd left alone. Says he will disown me fromhw will -- hell, its mostly mine anyway -- if I mess with it.

1B