I own 2 bow saws and 3 older crosscut saws. I plan on trying my hand at sharpening the crosscut saws, but does it make sense with the bow saws? Look like you can get a replacement blade for about $8.

Also, anyone ever replace a bow saw blade with a bone saw blade? I really dont need 2 bow saws and my gerber exchange-a-blade is on its last leg.

i use a cheap hacksaw for deer legs.
you'll need some way to properly set the teeth
on the crosscut or you'll work yourself to death.
lehman's used to have a kit. filing them is no trouble.

I think Ranger covered it.
How large of saws are you asking about Tom?

Before you sharpen the crosscut saws, make sure you have determined the proper set...hardwood or softwood.

Saw set adjusts the teeth so the saw motion clears the cut with each stroke. With the correct use of a couple of hand tools, the antiques hanging on my walls, will cut as well as most new saws.

roundoak, do you file, and set, or set, and then file?

If I may assist....
https://www.fine-tools.com/G10001.html
"What are the stages of the work?

Getting saws back into shape for sawing involves four successive processes - trimming, shaping , setting and sharpening the teeth, in that order. Depending on the state the teeth are in, you can start at stage 4 or have to begin at the beginning"

File then set.

Of course I have already jointed, filed rakers and/or lowered gullets and gap between the teeth.

I sharpen teeth then set.

Helping my Dad long ago, we would saw off a young tree at the correct height for Him, about 4-5 inches thick at that point. Then saw straight down until just the teeth would stick up out of the saw slot. Turn the saw upside down and file the teeth. Crosscut saw. miles

My Dad was a union carpenter, back in the day when all the saws were sharpened on site. He made jigs to hold circular saw blades and handsaws. He always set then filed. For circular saws, you need to make sure the tooth depth was good also, he had special "gumming" wheels to cut the slots. Band saw glands are a different animal though. But without the proper set, no saw will cut properly.

That is true, and sets are different for crosscut and rip saws, along with the rake. I have several setting tools around here somewhere. A few years back they were showing up at flea markets real cheap. Dad had a "thing" that had prongs that would drive into a stump and then had an angle to get the correct set. Kinda like a small anvil with an angle in it. I know, not a very good description. The ones that I bought at the yard sales were devises that worked by squeezing handles, similar pliers, and would bend the tooth, and were adjustable. I used them with a little success when sharpening a band saw for a band saw, sawmill. They did not work great, but were somewhat usable. miles

My Granddad taught me to set after filing because the reverse can change the set.

20-30" blades. Think I'll try my hand at sharpening the crosscut saws, then make a call on the bow saw.

Tom, those old saws are "cool".
'I like them as wall hangers, but better still to use them.

I collect antique wood working tools. But every tool must function as it was designed. Very few could not be set to work at a moments notice. Some are quite interesting, at least to me.
I do use them, when they are the correct choice for the work. There is something therapeutic about using heirloom type tools.

(As I was taught, and as per the link)

"4. Sharpening

Sharpening should take place after the setting, to avoid the tool damaging the teeth"