#1366721 - 04/12/07 11:48 AM
Parkerizing VS Bluing
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Daveh
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Our only local smith offered to parkerize a rifle for about half what he charges to blue. He prefers it and stated since he can control the bead blast prior to refinish it will look almost the same as bluing.
More I think about it I had him "matte" finish a 22-250 once and he was cheap but it looked more gray than normal, still ok but not dark. Maybe it was parkerized and he didn't say. I didn't ask.
THOUGHTS?
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But as for me and my house we will serve the Lord. Joshua 24:15
I can do all things through Christ who strengthens me. Phil. 4:13
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#1366758 - 04/12/07 12:14 PM
Re: Parkerizing VS Bluing
[Re: Daveh]
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pullit
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Bluing you have to spend alot of time polishing all the parts and into the nooks and cranies, bead blasting is much faster. The old saying "time is money" still hold ture
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I may not be smart but I can lift heavy objects
I have a shotgun so I have no need for a 30-06.....
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#1366761 - 04/12/07 12:16 PM
Re: Parkerizing VS Bluing
[Re: pullit]
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Daveh
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Guess I should have been more clear both are matte finish. He did say that he would have less prep time but maybe he didn't totally understand either.
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But as for me and my house we will serve the Lord. Joshua 24:15
I can do all things through Christ who strengthens me. Phil. 4:13
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#1366859 - 04/12/07 01:23 PM
Re: Parkerizing VS Bluing
[Re: Daveh]
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DMB
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Loc: Grayling, MI
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David,
It really depends on how you will like what you get with a park job. If you've seen military rifles that are park'd, you know what your rifle will look like. For nice sporters, I like a matte blue. But, I have a couple of Rem 513 series rifles that are park'd. I don't mind it with those rifles.
For me, nothing beats a rust blued, matte, sporter.
Don
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#1366929 - 04/12/07 01:59 PM
Re: Parkerizing VS Bluing
[Re: DMB]
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RickB
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Loc: Canyon Country, CA
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Parkerizing is an actual built up “coating” for exterior metal, not to be used for close fitting parts with tight tolerances.
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#1366960 - 04/12/07 02:14 PM
Re: Parkerizing VS Bluing
[Re: RickB]
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Daveh
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Nothing that tight on a factory 700..grin...
Just having him do the barreled action and bolt shroud. It's a cheapy build I did but the darn thing shoots like a house afire.
Dave
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But as for me and my house we will serve the Lord. Joshua 24:15
I can do all things through Christ who strengthens me. Phil. 4:13
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#1367096 - 04/12/07 03:19 PM
Re: Parkerizing VS Bluing
[Re: RickB]
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Daveh
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Could be....
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But as for me and my house we will serve the Lord. Joshua 24:15
I can do all things through Christ who strengthens me. Phil. 4:13
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#1367119 - 04/12/07 03:30 PM
Re: Parkerizing VS Bluing
[Re: Daveh]
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nadzab
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Given any thought to an applied finish like Cerakote? I've seen some beautiful results from that kind of technique, and supposedly very durable, and relatively cheap.
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#1367151 - 04/12/07 03:45 PM
Re: Parkerizing VS Bluing
[Re: Daveh]
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Lee24
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I built a bad weather/ mountain rifle in .308 on a 98 Mauser action, 19-inch barrel with HK G3 flash hider to protect the muzzle, parkerized, sturdy iron aperture sight, synthetic stock, 6 lbs. It has held up well to use in a canoe and kayak, rain, snow for over 20 years.
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#1367164 - 04/12/07 03:49 PM
Re: Parkerizing VS Bluing
[Re: Lee24]
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Daveh
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Thanks Shane. The smith said it wouldn't touch SS. But I take his info with a grain of salt.... Why I only trust him with simple task's and send out serious stuff.
I had assumed it was an etching but on 24hr unless I am 100% sure I don't comment....
Dave
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But as for me and my house we will serve the Lord. Joshua 24:15
I can do all things through Christ who strengthens me. Phil. 4:13
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#1367167 - 04/12/07 03:50 PM
Re: Parkerizing VS Bluing
[Re: Daveh]
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Daveh
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BTW- Dang I like your stuff.........
_________________________
But as for me and my house we will serve the Lord. Joshua 24:15
I can do all things through Christ who strengthens me. Phil. 4:13
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#1367877 - 04/12/07 09:20 PM
Re: Parkerizing VS Bluing
[Re: Daveh]
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MontanaMarine
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I'm no expert on different steels, could be than some grades of stainless wouldn't take the parkerizing.
Iron Brigade Armory did mine. Norm put a magnet on the barrel, it stuck, and he said "yep, it'll take parkerizing".
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Shane 
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#1368079 - 04/13/07 04:00 AM
Re: Parkerizing VS Bluing
[Re: MontanaMarine]
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DMB
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Loc: Grayling, MI
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I'm no expert on different steels, could be than some grades of stainless wouldn't take the parkerizing.
Iron Brigade Armory did mine. Norm put a magnet on the barrel, it stuck, and he said "yep, it'll take parkerizing".
Good point. Most all rifle barrels are made from 400 series Stainless Steel, like 416, which is magnetic.
Didn't realize that many people who think Stainless, automatically think non-magnetic. The only Stainless that I'm aware of that is non-magnetic is 303, and no barrels are made from it. It can't be heat treated.
Don
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#1368370 - 04/13/07 08:16 AM
Re: Parkerizing VS Bluing
[Re: MontanaMarine]
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RickB
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[quote=MontanaMarine]My park'd 30-06. It's not a coating, it's a chemical etching of the metal. My barrel is Douglas stainless steel, it took the park' but not quite as dark as the CM receiver.
Parkerizing does slightly etch the steel, but it also coats it by depositing manganese and zinc phosphates on the surface that bond to the steel. That’s why it is not used where tight tolerances are required such as triggers, sears, safeties etc.
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#1370447 - 04/14/07 06:26 AM
Re: Parkerizing VS Bluing
[Re: RickB]
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MontanaMan
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[quote=MontanaMarine]My park'd 30-06. It's not a coating, it's a chemical etching of the metal. My barrel is Douglas stainless steel, it took the park' but not quite as dark as the CM receiver.
Parkerizing does slightly etch the steel, but it also coats it by depositing manganese and zinc phosphates on the surface that bond to the steel. That’s why it is not used where tight tolerances are required such as triggers, sears, safeties etc.
Rick,
You are correct w/comments on parkerizing (phosphating).
I've done both manganese and zinc commercially and depending on the substrate material, the cleaning methods used, the bath chemistry and surface finish of the bare part, phosphate crystals can range from fine & nice to rough & ugly.
Typically, phosphating is not done on stainless since that's what the tanks used to hold the phosphate (or bluing salts)solution are typically made of.
Never did phosphating on rifle barrels, but on CM, I don't think I'd want it on the bore of my gun.....for reasons cited above, and because there is very little effect of stainless, probably wouldn't affect it much, but I'd still rather not have it there.
Sometimes on metals that don't fully convert enough to "grow" crystals, the surface is still etched.......not a good thing for a rifle bore in my opinion.
MM
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#1370748 - 04/14/07 09:02 AM
Re: Parkerizing VS Bluing
[Re: MontanaMan]
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RickB
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Parkerizing steel is somewhat analogous to Anodizing amuminum. Parkerizing will work on most stainless steels used in firearms because they have a lower nickel percentage than the stainless used in other applications like bluing tanks. But, since stainless doesn’t need the same kind of rust protection that regular steel does, most guys wanting the Parkerized look on stainless usually go with Black Oxide or one of the “paint and bake” finishes.
Parkerizing doesn’t adhere well to smooth polished steel, but it will still etch it to a certain degree. Parkerizing is done at a much lower temperature, and takes less time in the tank than hot bluing, and unless I’m misinformed the bores are plugged with wooden plugs when being Parkerized to protect the bore from the solution.
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#1371385 - 04/14/07 02:58 PM
Re: Parkerizing VS Bluing
[Re: RickB]
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MontanaMan
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The plugging of the barrels when parkerizing would make sense. All the parts I've ever done were other than barrels; slides, frames, etc.
As for time in the tanks, parkerizing is normally around 7 - 10 minutes; blueing around 10 -15.
There are blueing salt compositions that will blue stainless but if looks more black than blue, but still looks OK.
MM
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