AM GOING TO ORDER A TIGOAT 6.5 TIPI AM LOOKING FOR IDEAS TO MAKE MY OWN STOVE, THOUGHTS LINKS THANKS.....

Check the back history of this form. We have lots of homemade stoves shown including mine.

I have used a paint can and a colman fuel can (or the like). The square can works much better. I oerdered the stove pipe and dampner from TiGoat. On the front(old top) I cut out all but left a small lip on the top, and cut a hole for the pipe. I made a door from light tin and rivited it on. I built a baffle to devert the flame from going straight up the pipe and rivited it on the inside. It works great. I wish I could post some pic's but i'm not literate enough. Enjoy the ride!!!--Allen--

300, you're gonna like the tipi. I have the the 6.5 with the carbon pole. The pole is worth the little extra you have to pay. Another neat deal I got with mine was and "eyebrow" that velcroes over the top end of the zipper so you can zip down and have some ventilation. If you get that, have him shape the bottom of the eyebrow so it will stand out. I've got some pics in an earlier post--you can search on my user name.

i am going to order the small stove from kni-co to start with and use it as a pattern to build one or adjust that one so it will able to be split in half i

That's an OK place to start for the money I guess, but the stove won't be in the same lightweight catagory that your tipi will be. Also, I've got the "Packer" and haven't found the draw to be good, although the construction is top notch. I can't speak for the other stove sizes though.

I have a Kni-co packer Jr and it smoked a great deal. Didn't work out for me however I never used the pipe etc from Kni-co just my rollup pipe. I don't know why the draw was poor. There is a thread on Kni-co stoves in the form.

any thoughts as to make it draw better, i got an 6.5 ft of the tigoat stove pipe. with the formulas people have quoted how to build stoves somebody should be able to say what to do to make it draw. i think it will make a handy light package for the mule to carrry, 2 people riding mules 1 pack mule and everyone walks out with 2 deer packed on the riding saddles. will look into building a lighter stove to backpack with the tipi to a couple places the mules dont like to go....

I tried everything. Even a solid pipe with zero spark screens. But if the door opening is made smaller with a plate on the top or bottom it did seem to draw better. Thinking it is the shape of the firebox. I still don’t know however it was a disappointing experience. I heard people had better luck with bigger Kni-co stoves however don't know for certain.

Gotta ask.. whats a 300 STW?

Jeff

7mm stw necked up to 30 caliber also have one necked to 338 and 358, at one time or anothe have had every caliber from 257 up to 458 on the stw case....

Thats what I was guessing. Then its been called something else for many years. 8 Rem Mag necked to 30. Just can't recall if its the 300 Kong or what it was.

Simply curious if it was improved or just a new name.

Jeff

i never new what it was officially called but had my first reamer 2 years after the 8mm mag came out , i had the first 8mag to show up in northern california whent i was 14, had a 300stw ever since, i use to call it 30-8mag that didnt sound very "sexy"

300 stw, sexy? Now 300 std's, thats sexy...... It's all in the 'transmitted' part......

Try this link.

http://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/1077773/page/0/fpart/2

Has some homemade stoves including my own.

You had a 300 stw before the 7stw came out?

yea it was a 300x 8mm rem mag , which is same case as 7 stw, that was hard to engeave on barrels too many words, when the first article on the 7 stw by layne simpson came out i renamed the cartrudge lots nicer to engrave on a barrel....

I went so far as the not use the spark screen or elbow (which was mandatory for use inside my tent), and it would draw sorta OK if the door pipe damper was wide open, the door damper wide open with the door cracked. Once I got things nice and hot I could close the door, but couldn't touch the dampers or the fire would choke out. It pretty much defeats the purpose of a more air tight (than a Kifaru) stove if it can't be shut down to a slow burn. In fairness the Kni-Co I haven't calle them to discuss the problem yet. I may just need to swap for a larger stove. The construction quality is definitely there, but something's wrong with the Jr design.