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MULE DEER: Have purchased a new ruger 1A .270. Recall you stating to tighten stock and snug foreend. Got a Fat Wrench. How many inch-lbs. of torque would you suggest on foreend screw? thanks for the response. einstein

I have no idea. I just tighten it up firmly with a screwdriver that fits.

If it doesn't shoot to your satisfaction that way, I would suggest epoxy-bedding the forend tip, then tightening up the forend the same way.

Welcome to the forum 3012. Before you go through the work of epoxy bedding if the tight screw does not work try free floating the forend.

Its easy to do with some spacer between the hanger and the forend.

I use a plastic faucet washer. Drill the hole out in it so your existing screw works and cut the washer down in size.

3012,

Hey, welcome to the list!

Before doing anything else, shoot your rifle with a known .270 Win accuracy load. You may have a pleasant surprise.

In my experience as recoil goes up more fore end drama ensues (my experience runs from 6mm Rem through .375 H&H). I have not tried a .270 Win though.

good shooting...jim

One thing I strongly recommend with the Ruger #1, or any other Ruger firearm for that matter, try fixing the problem without making any alterations to the firearm, if possible. For example, say you free float the barrel and something goes wrong in the gun's mechanism requiring you sent it back to Ruger. Ruger will request you replace the forearm at full price before they will even consider working on the gun. Been there and done that. I bought a used Ruger M77 that the previous owner had free floated the barrel. The claw extractor was messed up and would not remove a cartridge fired or unfired from the chamber. I sent the gun to Ruger and was advised I would have to buy a new stock before they would fix the extractor. Now what in the hell a a new stock has anything to do with a bad extractor is way beyond me. I told them to send the gun back. I fixed it myself with a spare Mauser extractor I had on hand. Just a word to the wise.
With that said, one trick that has worked for me is to get a small rubber "O" ring (1/4 x 1/8x1/16 size)and remove the forearm screw, place the "O" ring on the screw and replace the screw.It helps regulate the pressure of the forearm screw while still keeping the screw's tension tight enough to not come out.
I've only had one #1 rifle that was a bad shooter and Ruger replaced the barrel and it is fine now. I have 21 Ruger #1 rifles in various calibers from .22 Hornet to .416 Rigby plus a custom .223 walk about rifle based on the Ruger #1 action. Some are sub-MOA and some will only do maybe 1.5" at 100 yards but all serve just fine for the hunting rifles they are. FWIW, most are 1 MOA or better and the "O" ring helped those that were not. All but two were purchased second hand for whatever that might be worth. Only one has been free floated and I bought it that way. I had to put a shim at the forearm tip to make that one shoot. Ruger #1 rifles do have their quirks. You just learn to live with them. They're just way too much fun.
Paul B.

PJGunner,
Man I'm jealous!21 #1's.The #1 is my favorite rifle.I currently own just one, a 1-A in .243.I'd wanted that exact setup for years.A month before I was to get married I found it used at a gunshop.I had about half the cash needed, so passed it up.After telling my future bride about it quite forlornly, she wrote a check covering the rest of the amount!Early wedding gift.Needless to say she (the wife) is a keeper.Anyhow, I think I might try the o-ring on my rifle just to see what it does.Seems like a good idea.

Gentlemen: thanks for the input. Will report back after the breakin. regards, einstein

3012
I have 1A's in .243, 7x57, and .257 Roberts. Both need some easy mods after the first range session.

First off - see what it does at the range, what kind of groups you shoot and what ammo. A lot of these shoot vertical strings after the first two shots when the barrel heats up.

Second - add a small stainless washer on the forend torque screw between the forend and the barrel mount (just a small amount of space is gained). Try at the range for improved results, with some rifles this is all you need.

Third - With the small stainless washer installed on the forend between the forend and the barrel mount. Check for pressure points on the forend. Slip a paper through to check the barrel to forend bind points (usually as the receiver and the end of the forend). Remove the forend and see what pressure points/marks exist on the metal. Usually you will have some marks at the receiver and there is a point at the end of the forend that contacts the barrel). You want to use a curved file (I use a set of curved machinists files) to remove the front point that contacts the barrel AND rough sand paper sand the receiver pressure points and any pressure points you noticed using the paper. Sand with light grit paper, check for pressure points again, resand if necessary. I usually wipe with furniture finish/oil lightly on the inside of the forend.

The results achieved with relieving the pressure points is positive. An very experienced Ruger #1 shooter told me how to make these modifications a few years back after I asked the 'any ideas' question! And it did improve the groups in the #1's I have.

I love the #1A,s
Mine is a 7X57. I bought it about a year ago, and it shoots 140 grain balistic tips into about a half an inch. It shoots some other stuff real well too.
I would like to get one in 30,06 ,.270 or if they exsist a 6mm would be cool.
Mine is an older one with the pink pad. I bought it for 525.00 and sold the scope it came with for 100.00. Put a VX2 2X7 on her and I am tickeld pink.
I don't know how mine is bedded but I can't even start a dollar under the for stock. I ain't pullin it apart just to find out.
Fun gun and has alot of class !
...tj3006