#535525 - 07/25/05 06:48 PM
Misc. Good Info
|
Rick99
Campfire Tracker
Registered: 03/17/02
Posts: 7330
Loc: N E Kansas
|
Offline
|
|
Posted by Stocker, 7/25/2005
Tang cracks:
Rick99: I have two 99's in 300. The 99F I bought new in 1955 or 1956. I have shot it a great deal, thousands of rounds, most of which were cast bullets. I have had to relieve the tang twice since purchased due to wood shrinkage and set back of the the long side tenons. The first time I realized I had a problem the stock was not cracking but the wood behind the tang was starting to swell upwards from impact of the tang against the thin wood area. I scraped some clearance and I'm guessing that may have been about 1965 -1970. A couple of years ago I saw the clearance was almost gone so redid it. The stock hasn't cracked at all but I saw the warning sign.
Last year I purchased a 99EG from a fellow who advertised it on this forum and it turned out lived relatively close to me. It is a 1951 production if I recall and I doubt it had been fired 20 times before I acquired it. In checking it out I noticed that there was enough relief behind the tang as manufactured to prevent any problems. It has since been fired several hundred times with cast bullets and I believe I can see a slight reduction in the clearance but it is not critical as yet. Barring accident I don't anticipate either rifle developing a crack but I am very attentive in watching for developing problems.
Another preventive measure I use when acquiring a 99 is to remove the butt and seal the ends of the tang tenons to block absorption of gun oil. Over time oil soaked wood softens and is prone to set back more than wood that does not contain gun oil.
I have noticed that many of the late production rifles had poorly grained and poorly fitted wood as delivered by the factory. Production costs for the 99 had probably reached the point where no time could be allowed for hand fitting in the critical stock areas.
Almost all cracks are repairable and most repairs that are done properly will be hard to see and add many years of life to the rifle.
It's not rocket science, it's just preventive maintenance like having your car serviced to prevent breakdown
---------------------------------------------------------
More info...
Posted by Carbon12, Jan 25, 2007:
If you have the nerve, you can try and gently pull the crack apart just enough to see if the interior wood is oil/grease stained. If the wood is stained, the crack most likely pre-existed the temperature shift/reassembly.
How can it be fixed? First, you should decide if you want a 'collectible' safe queen or a shooter. If it is the former, leave it as it is. If it is to be shooter, epoxy is as good a choice as any. To be an effective repair, the goal is to create a ~0.005 gap between the upper tang and the butt stock so as to transfer 100% of the recoil forces to the lower tang-butt stock contact surfaces. This can be done with epoxy bedding.
If you want to maintain the 'all original' character of the rifle and still be able to shoot it without extending the crack it now has, then you can try creating the same ~0.005 gap between the upper tang and butt stock with a carefully fitted shim between the lower tang of the receiver and the buttstock. I use soft brass shim stock. A pattern for the shim can be made with a small piece of business card. The business card is rolled into a 'U' shape and fitted to the 'U' shape inlet for the lower tang. A dab of high tack grease at the tip of the threaded end of the stock through-bolt is used to mark where a hole needs to be punched in the shim pattern for where the stock bolt passes through. Trim the bottom of the pattern so that the shim will be flush with the bottom of the tang and the grip of the butt stock. The width of the shim should be no wider than what it takes to cover the width of the tang. What you do not want to do is make your shim so wide as to transform your lower tang into a wedge. Doing so will only make you cry when you split your butt stock into two or more pieces. In fact, for the actual shim, it is recommended to feather the edges of the shim such that there is a smooth transition from the shim to the side of the tang instead of a step.
I have done this with two of my own 99s and have had no further extension of the original crack. This is with several years of moderate shooting.
An addional point that should be mentioned is that a consistent POA-POI relationship in 99s is dependent, in part, to a solid contact between butt stock and receiver. Shimming, such as I have described, between the butt stock and receiver has not raised a problems with accuracy in neither of my rifles.
Comments from 300jimmy (3/2007):
The stock bolt should be snug. Not loose, not gorilla tight. Check it occassionally. If too loose, this can negatively affect accuracy as well. If tightened properly, the stockbolt lends to improved accuracy.
The bearing surface between receiver tang (lower tang where stock bolt engages) and stock should be the primary bearing surface between the two pieces. If there is a gap at the interface shim it. Make sure the edges of the shim are tapered as they come around the radius to evenly distribute the recoil. This primary bearing surface needs to be maximized. Secondary bearing surfaces are where the cheeks pads meet the receiver. The top tang should not bear recoil.
Replace aluminum stock bolts with steel ones. The mix of aluminum and steel threads tend to loosen over time due to differing coefficients of thermal expansion.
Don't let wood bearing surfaces get saturated with oil which can soften the wood and change bearing pressures.
Do treat the wood with respect. Don't drop, bump, pry or apply a leverage to the stock. I think many a cracked stock has been dropped on the butt or fallen on by a hunter in the woods.
Hope this helps you stay crack free.
Edited by Rick99 (03/15/07 01:02 PM)
|
|
Top
|
|
|
|
|
#535526 - 01/05/06 09:34 AM
Problems posting photos?
|
Rick99
Campfire Tracker
Registered: 03/17/02
Posts: 7330
Loc: N E Kansas
|
|
Offline
|
|
If you are having problems posting photos you can send them to Les at [Email]leslie.l.green savagela.org [/Email] and he will link them from his web site to the "24". Best to do it when he is on line so he can turn them quickly.
Or, you can post to a web site like Photo Bucket or any web site that will store you photo and link it back to the "24".
Photos that are 100K or smaller in size can be added as "attachment" direct from your hard drive.
|
|
Top
|
|
|
|
|
#535527 - 01/05/06 10:01 AM
Loose lever?
|
Rick99
Campfire Tracker
Registered: 03/17/02
Posts: 7330
Loc: N E Kansas
|
|
Offline
|
|
From Lightfoot,
If your lever does not stay up to the receiver when the rifle is not loaded it is because the lever is not applying enough force to the bolt to hold the lever up in place. We refer this to "lever bit". To fix you must close the arc of the lever by tapping a few times with a rubber or rawhide hammer. It doesn't take a lot and is a trial and error task. Once you remove the butt stock and review the "attached" photo and your rifle it should be pretty clear as to what you want to do. If you need help just ask.
Attachments
694096-Leverbite.jpg (1334 downloads)
|
|
Top
|
|
|
|
|
#535528 - 07/31/06 07:12 AM
Savage Sight Dealer
|
Rick99
Campfire Tracker
Registered: 03/17/02
Posts: 7330
Loc: N E Kansas
|
|
Offline
|
|
From RAS, July 2006...
I thought I would pass on his info to all of you who may need a hard to find sight. His name is Mr. Bean. His company's name is "Sights and Antique Guns." He is located in York, PA and ships. (717) 755-9070. Maybe some of you can note this for future reference. I remember that he had tons of tang sights. Many other models for different firearms as well. They call him the "Sight Man". Nice man and very helpful to work with. His motto is that if he doesn't have it, he can almost always find it for you. Prices seemed to be reasonable based on the many people who were commenting around his table. He also stated that he often has Stith(sp?) mounts.
Here is another sight dealer posted by Billy336:
Mickey Gilbertson
706-265-4529
Dawsonville, GA
Edited by Rick99 (07/17/08 02:20 PM)
|
|
Top
|
|
|
|
|
#535529 - 01/19/07 01:52 PM
Tighten a loose TD barrel...
|
Rick99
Campfire Tracker
Registered: 03/17/02
Posts: 7330
Loc: N E Kansas
|
|
Offline
|
|
How to tighten a loose TD barrel by Bushwacker...
My gunsmith taught me how to fix this problem. We tightened two of mine. The problem is these get the threads banged up so the trick is to return the metal to where is was.
Take a small ball peen hammer. Grind the face of it smooth so it will not ding the metal. Starting on the threads LIGHTLY tap the threads straight down all the way around. Take your time and work all the way around the barrel. Then take and lightly tap the shoulder of the barrel that butts to the reciever and make sure all of that metal is laying back down. Take your time, work all the way around and lightly tap. You are only trying to move the little dinks and out of place metal back to where it started, not making the barrel out of round with heavy strikes.
Next starting on the chamber end, lightly tap the top of the threads in a motion towards the muzzle, like you are lightly glancing the face of the hammer towards the muzzle, again this is light tapping. You want to move the metal towards the muzzle end that is dinked up, not the rest of the threads. You then do the same for the threads at the muzzle end towards the chamber end, this helps the threads pull the barrel into the shoulder of the reciever. Apply grease to threads and try it. If it needs more, start the process over again.
I did not think this was going to do anything until I saw it with my own eyes. I had a very loose Savage 250-3000 model. It would go past the index by a good 110-120 degrees. When we finished I had to use the forearm to get it the last 1/8 of an inch to index. It is now bank vault tight and has been for the last 300 rounds. Hope this helps. Ryan
|
|
Top
|
|
|
|
|
#535530 - 01/19/07 04:50 PM
Where to get Murray's book on the 99...
|
Rick99
Campfire Tracker
Registered: 03/17/02
Posts: 7330
Loc: N E Kansas
|
|
Offline
|
|
The Ninety-Nine:
Doug Murray
20 Polo Lane
Westbury, NY 11590
Price change 9/15/2007
The cost is $30.00 plus $3.00 postage (for US or Canadian).
Please note that you got the address from the Savage Forum on the "24".
Edited by Rick99 (09/14/07 07:08 PM)
|
|
Top
|
|
|
|
|
#535531 - 01/19/07 04:51 PM
Lettering your rifle...
|
Rick99
Campfire Tracker
Registered: 03/17/02
Posts: 7330
Loc: N E Kansas
|
|
Offline
|
|
John T. Callahan,
Savage Arms Historian
53 Old Quarry Road
Westfield, MA 01085
New prices as of 12/1/2006:
Savage 1895's, 1899's and 99's are $30.00
Other Savages are $25.00.
Stevens are $20.00.
A.H. Fox Sterlingworths-$30.00.
Graded doubles are $40.00.
Send serial number and details of the item, allow 5-6 weeks for delivery.
Make payable to John T. Callahan
NOTE: If you state that you are a "24" member and list your "24" name you can purchase the Savage 1895's, 1899's and 99's letter for $25.00 each.
NOTE: JC has requested that you not send for more than 3 letters at a time. Big orders put him behind and cause other peoples requests to set so that they do not get answered in a timely manner. Thanks.
Edited by Rick99 (03/15/07 12:19 PM)
|
|
Top
|
|
|
|
|
#535532 - 01/23/07 09:51 AM
Rotor tension
|
Rick99
Campfire Tracker
Registered: 03/17/02
Posts: 7330
Loc: N E Kansas
|
|
Offline
|
|
Posted by Longbeardking:
Rotor (carrier spindel) spring adjustment. If you have problems with the magazine not accepting enough rounds (or not feeding all of the rounds) you might have a rotor that is wound too tight (or not enough).
"If you look just above the cartdidge counter window, you'll see a small screw. If you remove the forend and look at the end of the receiver you'll see a ring that is slotted. You'll need a flat bladed screwdriver with a slot cut through it so it fits well into the slots on the ring. Now being careful. loosen that screw above the window. It only has about 6 or 8 threads on it IIRC and then it's a straight shank beyond that. DO NOT FULLY REMOVE THIS SCREW YET!!! While you are loosining that screw, you want to have the slotted screwdriver in place holding the rotor from turning. On the rotor, there are a series of slots around the diameter for that screw above the window to engage. If you rotate the rotor ever so slightly you can feel the slot on that screw. Holding the rotor in place, gently remove the screw. Once that screw is fully removed you should feel resistance on the slotted screwdriver. This is where you have to be careful. 2 people really help, although I did it alone. Rotate the rotor only slightly (clockwise if too tight and counter-clockwise if too loose)and place the screw you removed back into the hole you took it out of. You'll feel it contact the rotor. Carefully rotate the rotor until the screw engages the next slot in the rotor. Replace the screw once it's in a slot and thread it in. You want to go no more than one slots adjustment and I think you should be OK. I hope I haven't confused you any more than you already might be."
|
|
Top
|
|
|
|
|
#2310871 - 07/14/08 12:09 PM
Re: Rotor tension
[Re: Rick99]
|
Rick99
Campfire Tracker
Registered: 03/17/02
Posts: 7330
Loc: N E Kansas
|
|
Offline
|
|
Tightening the safety in an 1899/99, 90,000 to 1,000,000 and the later lever safety Model E…
Posted by Hemlock Ranger:
Awhile back someone posted about this problem. A local gunsmith knew what was wrong with my .303 E. After I told him it developed the problem after being taken down and cleaned. Sure enough, the tiny spring that fits in the slide was missing. He heated a small piece of flat spring steel and bent it into a nearly flat S. Then filed and honed it to fit the hole in the slide and achieve the desired amount of friction to hold it in position, yet slide fairly easy. He said the little piece is easily lost when taken apart, and does not look like a spring or any other gun part.
Posted by Skidrow:
(to make the safety tighter using the original spring) take out that little "S" shaped spring … and spread it a bit. That should increase the friction and tighten up the slop in your safety. Just make sure that when you spread it that you don't set it up so that the ends of the spring dig into the surrounding metal.
Posted by 99trix:
Here is the post 90,000 safety. The s shaped spring is what creates the resistance to prevent it from flopping back and forth.
Here is the pre 90,000 safety. Sometimes you can get enough pressure on it to open it slightly without taking the rifle apart. But spreading the end is what creates the resistance on this style.
|
|
Top
|
|
|
|
|
#2406770 - 09/01/08 04:11 PM
Lyman Tang Sight Repairs
|
99trix
Campfire Regular
Registered: 08/14/06
Posts: 891
Loc: Vancouver Island, Canada
|
Online
|
|
Well as promised here is the lyman tang sight "how to". I will try to keep this as logical and as easy to follow as possible.
First the picture of the tools used. A set of snap ring pliers (to remove the retaining screw), small screw driver (for popping off the lever and lever stops) and a 1/4" wrench (to remove the lock nut).
Now so you can follow me I will give you the terminology that I am using for each part. From left to right in the photo.
Retaining screw
Lever lock
Lever lock stops (damaged)
Dohickie
Cross bolt (notice the dohickie spring in the small hole on the left)
Stem assembly
Lock Nut
and underneath is the base
For the stems that are not properly align, you only have to loosen off the lock nut, adjust stem and retighten. The shoulder on right side and the lock nut on the left side sandwich the stem to hold it in the position to the lock.
Caution on removing the cross bolt (it will come out with the lock nut removed) is that the dohickie will come flying out.
A couple of important notes. On the ring on the left hand side of the base there is a notch on the bottom of the ring. This is what the dohickie locks into when the stem is raised to the shooting position.
The stem assembly has a slit in the stem. This slit must face forward on reassembly or the eye piece will be in backwards. Unlike the Marbles the Lyman stem will only fit into the assembly one way. If this is in backwards, so will the eye piece (I know this one from experience).
Here is a picture of the cross bolt removed with just the locking nut taken off. In this picture you can see the dohickie in place and a part of the spring.
The next group of pictures show the disassembly of the cross bolt. I have removed the stem to make it easier to photograph, but you might still have the locking nut in place and just working on cleaning up the locking lever. The removal of the locking nut will allow the cross bolt to come out, but the removal of the retaining screw just removes the locking lever and locking lever stops.
Here is it assembled.
Now with the retaining screw removed. You can see the dohickie in the notch on the bottom.
The next piece to remove is the locking lever. It goes on with the knob to the outside. You can see it length of travel as it is stopped by the dohickie in both directions.
The last piece is the lever lock stops. This fits firmly around the dohickie. The bumpy edges face the locking lever. This one has some damage to the stops on the left.
Here it is with everything removed from the lever side. You can see how the dohickie is in the bottom notch. The cross bolt only has to come out about 1/8" and the dohickie goes flying (know this from personal experience also).
Assembly is pretty straight forward. The cross bolt has to go in with the dohickie in place. You can preassemble the lever locking side without the cross bolt in place or you can do it in place it doesn't matter. As for alignment I just used one of my other sights to get the right angle and tightend it at that point.
Hopefully this fixes more sights than it breaks!
Blair
|
|
Top
|
|
|
|
Moderator: RickBin, Rick99, SYSOP
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
1
|
|
2
|
3
|
4
|
5
|
6
|
7
|
8
|
|
9
|
10
|
11
|
12
|
13
|
14
|
15
|
|
16
|
17
|
18
|
19
|
20
|
21
|
22
|
|
23
|
24
|
25
|
26
|
27
|
28
|
29
|
|
30
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
19392 Members
65 Forums
204905 Topics
2528334 Posts
Max Online: 1366 @ 08/07/07 07:51 PM
|
|
|
