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Joined: Oct 2011
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I have never shot past 100 yards.

I have a pre 64 Model 70 in .270 Winchester and two rifles in .243 Winchester.

All of them shoot about 1" at 100 yards if I do my part.

I have several questions:

1) How high should I zero my guns at 100 before heading to the 300 yard range?

2) What type of target at 300 yards?

3) How much power do I need in a spotting scope to see holes at 300 yards?

4) 80 gr or 100 gr .243 bullets at 300 yards?

Thank you in advance

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There is no spotting scope you can afford that will see 6mm or 277 cal holes at 300 unless you use one of those "marker" targets that splotch out in a bright color where the bullet hits.

3" to 3.5" high @ 100 will put you on the paper at 300

I use the Redfield targets (red on white) as they have a neat grid system

What do you plan to hunt a 300 ? That's a far poke given wind, mirage, out of breath.

The bullet weight depends on the game and velocity. Killed my last 2 speed goats at 230 with an 80 TTSX starting out at 4000 fps from a long bbled 25-06, #2 at 232 yds with a 270 M 70 BOSS shooting 140 accubonds. at 2900.

Either one would kill an Elk at the same distance with a selected shot (double lunger).

Hope this helps.


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Shooting a gong or metal target usually at 300 yards or more?

Milk jugs or other reactive targets could be used.

I sight my "hunting" rifles to be dead on at 200 yards so usually 1 1/2 inch high at 100 yards depending on many variables like caliber, reloads, ect. Some say 2 or 2 1/2 inches?

With my rifle sighted for 200 yards dead on I merely aim at the top of the gong and hit it at 300 yards. This is with a 30.06 using a 165 BTSP and a slow 2680 fps. Roughly 9 inch drop if I recall correctly?

The 270 Win should shoot a couple inches flatter with the 130 grain combo? How is your rifle sighted in?


300 yards isn't too difficult and does not require a certain grain bullet. Shoot whichever is sighted in for your rifle.


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1) How high should I zero my guns at 100 before heading to the 300 yard range? START AT ONE INCH HIGH AT 100 AND ADJUST AS NEEDED.

2) What type of target at 300 yards? ANOTHER VOTE FOR REDFIELD TARGETS.

3) How much power do I need in a spotting scope to see holes at 300 yards? DEPENDS ON TARGET-USE SAME SPOTTING SCOPE YOU WILL USE IN THE FIELD AND SAVE MONEY.

4) 80 gr or 100 gr .243 bullets at 300 yards? 90, 95 OR 100 GRAIN FOR BIG DEER AT THAT DISTANCE.

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First, 300 yards is not really long range, it just seems that way because you've never done it. If you start, and do it regularly, fairly soon 300 will be easy and you'll be stretching it out more. You asked about bullets, for longer ranges with the .243, the 105's have the best wind-bucking capabilities. You don't need them for 300 necessarily, but in general the longer the bullet, the better the BC, and the better it will be for longer range shooting.

AS far as how high to sight in, a ballistics calculator program will help. You'll need to know your velocities and the BC of your bullets, plus a few more inputs:

http://bergerbullets.com/ballistics/php/bb.php

With a typical 100 grain bullet at 3000 fps you'll be around 12" low at 300 with a 100 yard zero, and 7" low with a 200 yard zero, which translates to around 1.5" high at 100.

If you're using a scope with an elevation turret, the standard practice is to zero at 100 and then adjust for elevation beyond that, once you shoot at the longer ranges and get the drops.

If your scope has no turret, you'll want to zero it out past 200 to get your maximum point blank range, which is the distance you can shoot without your bullet arc-ing too high at midrange or dropping too low at the target. If you sighted to be dead-on at 300, you'd be almost 5" high at 200, and that's a little too much but if you sighted to be dead on at 250 your round would never go above about 3" above your line of sight all the way to the target and you'd only be around 3.75"low at 300.

Hope this helps.




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It depends on your weather for seeing .270 at 300. I have a vortex viper 15-45 and can see .270 holes at 300 if the mirage is minimal and I use bright orange targets. Use shoot and see targets for best results. But frankly don't count on seeing holes past 200.

Zero your rifle at 200. 9" of drop for the .30-06 is about right. If I recall correct a fast 130gr .270 is bout 6" low at 300 with 200 zero. I zero all my center fires at 200.

I don't have a .243 but heavier would deal with the wind better I would think. Either way enjoy. 300-500 is fun.

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Thanks to all

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I use file folders for targets. The beige color is nice because it doesn't reflect light as bad as plain white.

You can see the hits at 300 if the mirage isn't bad.

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Wow a real expert . We watch and see bullets hit and leave holes at 800 with a swaroski 65 mm on 40 power 300 should be no problem at all.

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You are seeing bullet holes at 800yds? LOL!

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Ya

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308 and 338

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Originally Posted by Bushmaster1313
I have never shot past 100 yards.

I have a pre 64 Model 70 in .270 Winchester and two rifles in .243 Winchester.

All of them shoot about 1" at 100 yards if I do my part.

I have several questions:

1) How high should I zero my guns at 100 before heading to the 300 yard range?

2) What type of target at 300 yards?

3) How much power do I need in a spotting scope to see holes at 300 yards?

4) 80 gr or 100 gr .243 bullets at 300 yards?

Thank you in advance


1) 1.5" high at 100 yds will put you roughly on at 200 and 6" low at 300. That's my hunting setting and I'd leave it at that for 300 yd. practice unless I was twisting turrets.

2) I use standard white copier paper with the orange stick on target dots. I can't see any reason to actually pay for a target to shoot at.

3) I don't know, I walk down there to look at and change out targets.

4) It doesn't matter. When you start talking long range the heavier high BC bullets are better but 300 yds is still pretty short range.

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Sir,
I will take a slightly different way to answer your questions.
First, purchase a reliable ballistic application for your iPhone, android, etc etc...Learn it and use it every time you shoot regardless of range. Most of these apps are amazingly close in their predictions and will eliminate the guess work about how much to come up or hold over.

Shooting at distance requires good optics and preferably a scope with turrets that eliminate the guess work of how much to hold over.
Next insure you can shoot well at 100yds before moving further out. Any problems with shooting technique are magnified as you shoot farther.
Study wind..trajectory is science, wind calls are a combination of experience and black magic and even at 300 a switching wind can drive you crazy.
Either of the calibers you have are certainly capable at 300yds and beyond with multiple bullet weights provided your rifles are capable of delivering consistent accuracy with the bullets you have chosen.

Bill

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To answer questions, I'll say I shoot at 200 and 300 yds. from time to time.
OK, your rifles shoot 1 inch groups at 100 yds. I like to zero mine from 2-2.5 inches up at 100 yds. Then I shoot both 200 and 300 yds. to see where they hit. Usually I'm on, or close to it at 200 yds. and anywhere from 4-9 inches down at 300 yds. depending on which rifle and which load.
I like very large 28X28 inch targets with large, round stick on, orange centers. I use the back of the standard, 200 yd. military type targets. On these, I place 6 inch bulls for 200 yds. and 8 inch ones for 300 yds.
Since I have no trouble seeing .25 caliber bullet holes with my Nikon 82mm ED spotter set on 40-56X, I recommend something like that. Keep in mind that magnification alone won't do it. I've seen $150 spotters that couldn't reliably show me .30 caliber holes at 100 yds. Plan on spending enough to make it happen. An 82mm spotter, as a rule will be sharper than a 50-60mm one. E

Last edited by Oheremicus; 04/20/14.

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