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Checked tonight. Front action screw is not bottoming out.

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Originally Posted by turkish
Clearly your problem is that you're shooting groups of too many shots. Seriously, there are aplenty pretty 3-shot groups on your targets. Folks should note that.


Bull chite. a 223 rem should be driving tacks, regardless of whether it's 3,5 or 10 shots...


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I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style.
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You want to see an animal drop right now? Shoot him in the ear hole.

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Originally Posted by Otter6
If you look at Fed Prem group 1,you have 3, 3/4" groups within the overall mess. Shots 2,3,4. Shots 5,6+7 are almost identical to them. And shots 8,9 + 10 are also 3/4" and not too bad for zero. If you had shot either of those by themselves,especially the last 3 shots,you would feel pretty good about things. Possibly from a good rest you could print 3/4" 3 shot groups,with factory fodder no less. That particular target sure looks to me like you were inconsistently bedding the rifle at the bench.



That's called a group. It ain't a- 3/4" inch gun if the 3/4" inch "groups" never impact the same place twice. What size target could he consistently hit? About 2 MOA. His gun with the Federal Premium ammo is a 2MOA gun. No amount lying to oneself will change that.

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Old read, but an interesting read.....

GROUP DIAGNOSIS

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Originally Posted by 16bore
Old read, but an interesting read.....

GROUP DIAGNOSIS

Lots of good stuff there.


I am continually astounded at how quickly people make up their minds on little evidence or none at all.
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Lots of interesting and thought provoking info there. Thanks for the link.

Bottom line, unless someone here shoots with the o.p., there isn't one bit of info in that article to help anyone here, other than the o.p. with this thread.

Looking at the pics he posted, the rifle needs bedded.

I'm not picking on the o.p., he may be able to wingshoot the balz off a gnat, but I don't know that. He would do well to follow the advice of the other two threads posted as links.

Dave.


Those who are always shooting off at the mouth usually aren't shooting straight.



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Make sure the barrel is not contacting the stock, anywhere. I have seen several Kimbers where the barrel is not centered in the stock channel, and it touches on one side (or the bottom of the barrel). This will cause accuracy issues. Any rifle that is supposed to have a floated barrel should have a really floated barrel. The gap should be obvious with the naked eye, and should be wider than the thickness of a dollar bill.

On the other side of the coin, any rifle designed for contact between barrel and stock should have solid contact between barrel and stock. Not "light" contact, and it should not be possible to mave the barrel in rrelation to the stock. It should have firm and even contact.

Anything "ambiguous" between a fully floated barrel and a barrel firmy supported by the stock is trouble waiting to happen.


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Originally Posted by dave284


I'm not picking on the o.p., he may be able to wingshoot the balz off a gnat, but I don't know that. He would do well to follow the advice of the other two threads posted as links.

Dave.
[i][/i]

This really funny. I'm going to use it with your permission.

Prolly use it without your permission as well because its that good...... wink


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I have been reading this because I have a Montana (280AI) in route as I write. I far from qualify as an expert as a gunsmith or as a tinkerer. I can however hold my on shooting groups from light rifles from the bench. The one question not ask or answered that I noticed is how quick were the shots fired? I worry more if the rifle will put the first shot on the money rather than group size. My 700 MR (260) will shoot in the .4s if I do my part and don't let it heat up much. If I shoot to quickly between shots it will always string up and right to an inch or more. My first shot on a cold barrel is what puts meat on the table. Longest kill with this rifle has been 407 yards.
Just my opinion
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Steve,

I have a Montana in 25/06ai (factory 25/06 punched....

I shoot it the same way as all my hunting rifles...wait a min or two between shots.

I have no problems keep it's fav load .5" - .75" as many times as I want too...

Tony

PS : for the record, of the known Kimber fixes, mine needed the mag box shortened, and bedding. After that, she was a shooting machine....

Last edited by hicountry; 12/31/14.
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Hoping this one will be a shooter. Looking forward to messing with it

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Originally Posted by SteveE
. My 700 MR (260) will shoot in the .4s if I do my part and don't let it heat up much. If I shoot to quickly between shots it will always string up and right to an inch or more. My first shot on a cold barrel is what puts meat on the table.
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Steve


Stringing is the result of stress. Rifles that "walk" need work no matter the barrel contour and no matter how fast they are shot.

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Originally Posted by Formidilosus
Originally Posted by SteveE
. My 700 MR (260) will shoot in the .4s if I do my part and don't let it heat up much. If I shoot to quickly between shots it will always string up and right to an inch or more. My first shot on a cold barrel is what puts meat on the table.
Thanks
Steve


Stringing is the result of stress. Rifles that "walk" need work no matter the barrel contour and no matter how fast they are shot.


Not sure I agree but that's what makes us different
I have found that enough heat will make even the best walk
Buggy whip bbls will pull just from more air cooling the top of the bbl more than the bottom. Even my 7/300 custom by Dwight Scott will pull if pushed hard and it's a # 5 contour.

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I forgot to add that a dial indicator just measures 0.002 on one and 0.001 on the other wen you loosen the bedding screws

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You ain't never gotta ask my permission.

Dave.


Those who are always shooting off at the mouth usually aren't shooting straight.



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