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Originally Posted by JoeMartin
Welcome to the site. I wouldn't worry too much about a 300. When you figure it out post some pics, there were 3 models in 1950, an EG, an F and an R. Oops, there were only 2 models in 1950, the F didn't come out till 55, Joe.


Hi, I cannot quite get the hang of the photobucket link.

http://s740.photobucket.com/user/gduk1/library/Savage99?sort=3&page=1

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Wow, now THAT has condition. Very nice. It's a 99EG.


The Savage 99 Pocket Reference”.
All models and variations of 1895’s, 1899’s and 99’s covered.
Also dates, checkering, engraving.. Find at www.savagelevers.com
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Yes, that is in nice condition and I would not worry about shooting it, unless you're concerned about taking the shiny new edge out of the barrel. Just kidding on the last part.

Last edited by S99VG; 02/27/17.

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Regarding the tang cracks on Savage 99's, it is my opinion that these are more from side to side pressure when transporting, than they are from recoil. For that reason I am extremely careful when transporting my 99's and never allow them to receive any sideways pressure.

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Originally Posted by Fireball2
[quote=lundtroller

They had a 98% scoped, cut checkered early 99DL in .243


Let me know if you don't buy that! I would. [/quote]



Ditto, need that one for all DL cals


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Thanks, an EG, just starting to understand the models and variations, would have preferred a rarer calibre, but happy all the same, need a (non drill) scope mount added and actually test the thing!
Glad it is just the handle that is case hardened, not normally my thing..
First handled one over 35 years ago, glad I now have one.
Interesting views on the cracks, will take it all on board.

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Best non-drill mount is from Lightfoot. If you don't know about them or him, he is on this forum.

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Your mount should be in the mail by Saturday.

That sure is a beauty!!


I am no longer accepting orders for the Lightfoot scope mount.
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Originally Posted by 1899guy
Best non-drill mount is from Lightfoot. If you don't know about them or him, he is on this forum.


One in the post, they look great cant wait!

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On the subject of the stock cracks I cannot still get my head around the issue.
Not only am I very very new to the 99, only had mine a few weeks (although first fired one over 30 years ago)
I am new to this Forum, so expect a bit of flak coming my way for this...eek.
But it really is the most bizarre thing I have heard, commercial suicide, and the worst reputation in the gun industry, pumping out guns for nearly a hundred years with a huge design fault/flaw, Savage would be a laughing stock.
A bit like a car manufacturer selling cars where 70 odd percent of the front windshields bust out...but still sell them, never modify the design, not only would it cost you a fortune in rectifying the issue your reputation would be in shreds too.
Is there any 'from new' 99 owners here?
My guess is the from new guns probably never cracked for years and years, but wood loses moisture over time.
Premium manufactures, as we all now, age wood 10,12 years or more but on a more modest price gun, no way, not on this or anything else in this price bracket.
Ageing the wood for so long means the wood has settled down, should hold that residual state for the future, something a 99 would not have the luxury of.
I had an old Winchester 1887, made in 88, great gun, wood was almost proud in areas of grain, almost dehydrated in its look.
Would a drink of organic, plant origin oil, such as boiled linseed oil cure the problem, it has certainly been used on gun stock for many years.
The 99 is such a well engineered gun maybe it literally lasts too long, well, too long for the wood design, we are using them 50,60 or 70 years later, that poor dry wood, yes a bad design, the new guns had fresh non aged wood, certainly not long enough if it was, probably worked just fine for a while, years, again any from new owners here to say when their cracks appear, excuse the pun...
Every other 99 we pick up, everyone looks there first, crazy situation.
It is like making a fire, you stamp on wood, the old stuff almost shatters, no moisture, the wood is very weak, but if we try on a new storm fall piece, we almost bounce off it, the moisture in the wood is retaining the woods structure and more importantly strength, and it is certainly resilient to breaking/cracking.

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I think you need to keep in mind that not all 99s exhibit cracks so we need to make sure that 10% of the pie does not seems like 90% of the pie simply because it is talked about all of the time. Also, keep in mind that some of these 99s are very old and even 99s made in the 50s (the last of the glory years) are nearing 70, give or take. And by any measure that is old (present company withstanding). The point has also been made on this forum that some of the cracks could have been caused by years of oil soaking into the wood. I personally feel that some cracks can be attributed to guys who just could not resist taking their rifles apart for no better reason than they could (a particular form of OCD that can have negative affects on any mechanical device). But then again, the vast majority of 99s are just plain old and have been exposed to a number of things beyond the effects of time itself.

Last edited by S99VG; 03/13/17.

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I said it before and I'll say it again: Look at the top and bottom tang and note they are tapered. Try over-torquing the butt screw and imagine those two wedges doing their best to split that piece of kindling in two. Add ham-handedness on the part of Old Uncle Leo twisting and yanking it from side to side as he tried to remove it and you'll see how the bear's share of cracks got generated. I doubt that recoil had much effect on generating cracks but I guess it could too, especially in the hard kickers like .358 and .308's- but that wouldn't explain the cracks in the light recoil .22HP's, .25-35, et al. Just torque the screw until it's snug and stop- you're not torquing the head on a 12 cylinder Jaguar.

I'm loathe to recommend epoxy bedding of time-honored old stocks for aesthetic/collector reasons, but I have on otherwise Bubba'ed stocks and/or newly made replacement stocks.

Was it a poor design on Savage's part? To a degree, but with the layout of the trigger and cocking mechanism, the two tangs are necessary, not to mention how clumsy looking the guns would be if the tangs were given parallel sides.

Savage got the gun right, as we all know. It's advantages far outweigh it's foibles. smile


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Don't underestimate how many folks smack the buttstock of their rifle on the ground either. Or drop them.


The Savage 99 Pocket Reference”.
All models and variations of 1895’s, 1899’s and 99’s covered.
Also dates, checkering, engraving.. Find at www.savagelevers.com
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Or put sideways pressure on them, especially when transporting them in soft cases in overpacked cars. Unlike most here, I don't think for a second tang cracks come from straight-back pressure. Look at the gun. Bad design on the cheeks and tang. Sideways pressure is what cracks them. If it was recoil, the heavier guns would crack more often than the 22 hi powers, 303's and 250's, but that is not the case. They all crack the same.

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the side pressure gets my vote as cause of the cracks. i have a 55 F in 250-3000 that never had a crack until i had to evacuate last year's forest fire. even in a soft case somehow it got pressed and cracked. very fine crack but there.


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