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Sounds like I will have to try One Shot. Does anyone know what the actual no stick lube in it is?

GB1

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I'm pretty sure I'm the only person that still uses bedding compound and release agent when bedding their rifle.

JFC.




Dave


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Originally Posted by deflave
I'm pretty sure I'm the only person that still uses bedding compound and release agent when bedding their rifle.

Dave

+1

Me, too...

DF

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One Shot dries and leaves a waxy residue behind...........


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Hired gun gave you good advice on not torquing the action. It's possible to introduce deflection in the stock or preload the action less than perfect. You can pull it.....but let it do its job before you get on a wrench.


Originally Posted by BrentD

I would not buy something that runs on any kind of primer given the possibility of primer shortages and even regulations. In fact, why not buy a flintlock? Really. Rocks aren't going away anytime soon.
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Originally Posted by HiredGun
I don't like Hornady One Shot, Pam, WD40, Silicone or any spray product that stays wet or leaves a buildup. The wet stuff mixes with the epoxy leading to chipping where ever the epoxy is thin. It also puddles and looks terrible in the bedding job. Same for the dry sprays if they are not buffed. Why not just use Kiwi neutral shoe polish or about any car wax? This leaves a much more professional appearance.

Tightening the action screws before the bedding is fully cured completely defeats the purpose of bedding. It put the action under the exact same stress it had before the bedding job.

If you don't have the correct products on hand I would wait till you do. Beside wasting valuable time you can add the expense of the substitute materials right on to the cost of what you should have used to begin with. JB works good for sealing holes in cast aluminum but it's no where near the structural compressive strength of MarineTex. I do this for a living and just dread some of these DIY projects that we have to remove or repair in order to do it right. This is just bedding but when the Dremel tool shows up that rarely ends well.


Keep car wax away from anything you might want to apply any paint or finish to later... including more epoxy. The silicone will give you fits in too many cases.

There is very little difference in the compression strengths of various epoxies and assuming you are talking about one of the JB products with powdered metal, they actually are quite a bit stronger in compression than Marine-Tex. And only Marine-Tex Gray should ever be used for bedding.


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Sitka, Thanks for the tips. Where can I read up on the compressive strength properties of the JB Weld products?

I can't find any of that info on their site.

I'm always up for learning stuff. I spend a good portion of every day doing research of one kind or another.


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Hint:

degrease parts twice with brake cleaner or starting fluid.

Apply two coats of release agent, best money you could ever spend, and I do foot the bill for the spray can. I started using the spray accra release after I stuck a new BDL stock on my 7 Mag in 1980 using PAM...never again. I went to wax, but it is hard to get it into all the knooks and crannies, chamber, lug recess that I like to have coated.

So, I buy the brownell's spray accra release, wash it off with brake cleaner when I am done. NEVER worry about any bedding compound sticking to anything...ever. I let the rifle set up for 7 days before I touch it.

Marine Tex, Bisonite, or Devcon for me.

You guys should do some research on stress free bedding.

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Originally Posted by keith
Hint:

degrease parts twice with brake cleaner or starting fluid.

Apply two coats of release agent, best money you could ever spend, and I do foot the bill for the spray can. I started using the spray accra release after I stuck a new BDL stock on my 7 Mag in 1980 using PAM...never again. I went to wax, but it is hard to get it into all the knooks and crannies, chamber, lug recess that I like to have coated.
How in the world would you get bedding compound into those areas??? I've only been doing this for 18+ years but never had that issue before..



Quote
You guys should do some research on stress free bedding.
Amen, brother... smile


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Originally Posted by Dirtfarmer
Originally Posted by deflave
I'm pretty sure I'm the only person that still uses bedding compound and release agent when bedding their rifle.

Dave

+1

Me, too...

DF


Unless i run out in Kotzebue. Then JBWeld... Just restocked my little Brownell's kit from my shop kit here in Soldotna. Spring Break.. varicose vein surgery... what could be better? smile


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+1 on Bisonite. A magnet will stick to it, you can't get more durable than that...
Johnsons paste wax, when use correctly nothing will stick to it.

Last edited by xb40; 03/19/17.
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Originally Posted by Dirtfarmer
With Tupperware, I like to drill holes so the bedding will have "footing", can't come out. Bedding material sometimes doesn't stick that well to Tupperware.


Synthetic stock molds are often sprayed with a release agent so they'll come out of the mold cleanly. Clean the inletting thoroughly and giving it some tooth by rough sanding, drilling and/or cutting some light grooves helps too.

If you need a quick release agent try Kiwi Neutral Shoe Polish. Cheap and you can buy it just about anywhere.

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Like others here, I use Brownells Acraglass Release spray. Never a doubt about whether it will work or not...ever. No big deal to me about the cost. It's worth it.

I use Marine Tex (at any boat dealer) to bed with for the last 30 years, at the advice of several accuracy gunsmiths. It works great and is as strong as any product on the market, or stronger.


You only live once, but...if you do it right, once is enough.
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