Home Forums Reloading Big Game Rifles 6mm Rem and 95 gr NBT

I'm working with a used Ruger tang safety rifle in 6mm Rem. I bought a pound of IMR 4451 and some 95 gr Nosler Ballistic Tips. Most groups were around 2-3 inches or more. I had some Reloder 17 on hand, tried that and groups were still that size. I've shot a total of 23 groups with the Noslers, none are good.

A switch to 100 gr Hornady Spire flat bases and the 4451 gave me some 1 inch groups. These are 3 shot groups at 100 yds.

Nothing wrong with the Hornady load, in fact that is what I will probably use this year since deer season is getting close.

I've got H4831 and IMR 4320 on hand, should I try them next spring with the 95 NBT or just figure my rifle doesn't like those bullets?

Dale

I'd get some 85 grain Barnes, with some R 19 and go kill some stuff!!!

This or the 80gr TTSX, both the 80 and 85gr with RL19 work excellent in both the 6MM and 243, kills flat out

the Nosler Ballistic Tip is not a problem of inaccuracy...

never had an issue with the bullet for accuracy...

had some powders that didn't work so well behind it, but that was rare...

and I'll admit to never trying 4451 or some of those new powders...

I'm wondering if there is a compatibility problem with the OP's seating die stem causing really bad runout.

I've got a tang safety M77 in 6mm I've had since I was 14...
It shoots 2-3" with 80 or 100 grain factory loads, and every other load I tried, except one. It shoots passable, usually 1.5" or so with the Hornady 100 flat base over a max charge of H4831. It doesn't like the boat tails as well, or 100 gr Partitions. Back to to 2" or so. Can't tell you how many pounds of powder I burnt up in my teens looking for some magic load that would make it shoot. Pretty sure the flat base are discontinued now, so stretch what you have

Years ago, my brother-in-law had a Ruger 6mm that was a hammer. He shot factory. I have read some bad stuff on accuracy with some Rugers, though.

I have an old Rem 700 that is a half-inch shooter with Hornady 100s and Re22 loaded to about 3000 fps. It shoots re17 real well, too. Nosler Parts are great, too.

I don't know what Hornady has against flat-based bullets, but they are starting to piss me off.

I owned this rifle 30+ years ago, then sold it to a cousin's SIL who was just starting to hunt. He quit hunting and I just bought it back a couple of months ago. I know it wasn't shot much while he had it and I probably put about a thousand rounds through it in the 3 years I owned it. I don't know how well he cleaned it, probably not very well. Back in my teen years I mostly only cleaned with regular Hoppes. I wonder if it needs a good cleaning with bore foam?

I'm working from memory but I remember it as a pretty good shooter, certainly not like the NBT's are doing. I used to load 85 gr boattails from both Sierra and Speer, they were in the 1/2 to 3/4 in range usually with Speer being the more accurate. I used IMR 4895 with them. I was really surprised when the Noslers wouldn't shoot.

Maybe I'll try the NBT's and the IMR 4320. 95/4320 is close to my old load with 85/4895 right?

I stumbled into a box of the Hornady flat bases at the LGS 2 weeks ago, guess I need to keep my eyes open for more.

Dale

A good cleaning with copper solvent sure can't hurt. You will at least remove that as a possible issue. I hope you figure it out.

I really like my 6 mm. It has killed well over 100 white tails out to 400 yards.

Hi Dale,

I would treat this rifle as being new to you. It needs to be checked from top to bottom. My first rifle was the same rifle!

First you should clean the heck out of it. I would loosen up the residue in the bore with a powder solvent then go to either JB bore paste or Remington's 40X. Figure out what combination of patches is good and tight and run several patches of either of those products through the bore. You should feel the patches get looser as you scrub out the crud. I would then use a good copper/powder solvent. My personal favorite is Bore Tech eliminator. Unfortunately not many stores carry it. I buy it from Sinclair. Big advantage is it can be kept soaking in the bore with no damage. If you cannot find it locally or you are in a hurry get some Barnes CR-10 and get the copper out. Only issue with this product is that it must not be left in the bore for hours as it could etch the steel. It can be neutralized with hoppes or what Barnes recommends CRC brake clean in the green can.

Once the bore is considered clean you should check the rifle itself. IMO the barrel should be full floated. Check that the front action screw is not bottoming out preventing the action from being tight.

Is the crown okay?

I had issues with my 6mm not shooting that well. A friend suggested I try the 100 gr Sierra semi round nose and it shot well. It put the ogive closer to the lands and made the difference. Unfortunately it is no longer offered. You could try a Speer grand slam or use a partition and make it a protected tip with most of the tip filed off. Either of these slightly blunt bullets would get closer to the lands and perhaps make a difference.


1000 rounds through your barrel that is was not cleaned properly could mean it is so bad it might never shoot . If you could get a view from a borescope that would certainly help.

I eventually wore out my 6mm barrel and was lucky enough to have a savvy gunsmith that suggested I rebarrel to 284 win. He used a 7 rem mag takeoff barrel. It was setback threaded and chambered as a 284 win. You could do something similar with a 243 barrel having it setback slightly and rechambered to 6mm Rem or as I have done, a 6mm-284. Either way that old tang safety rifle will feed those fat 284 cases wonderfully It is a perfect fit in that old tang safety. Feeds wonderfully and for little cost. I still have my Ruger, it is my oldest rifle.

feel free to PM me

Ross