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Thank you.


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Originally Posted by jwall
They make a TOOL for removing the barrel on 760-7600-6 Rifles.

I've never used heat to remove the barrel. And I don't use loc tite to reinstall them. They are firmly attached and need to be RE firmly attached. I use a short 2x4 to bump the tool handle to loosen. Conversely, I BUMP the handle to RE attach.

Jerry

That's a neat looking tool. I just tried searching for it. Brownell's came up, but when I search the site, they don't appear to carry it.

There's a video on disassembly here: Gunsmithing Disassembly: Remington 7600 (Gunworks)

He uses a pin punch in the video. Mic McPherson suggests using a screwdriver with a 3/16" shank with the tip cut off and some electric tape rolled up on it 3/4" from the end as a stop guide in his book Accurizing the Factory Rifle.

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G L -

Yes, Brownell's is where I got mine --- in the '80s.

I would call and talk w/them, maybe they have some that are not on the site.

Good luck

Jerry

Last edited by jwall; 09/20/16.

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Originally Posted by River_Ridge
A good cleaning fixed it. It was a lot dirtier than I realized. I took it apart and hosed it out with electrical contact cleaner several times and lubed it. Then I cleaned the barrel, inside the receiver and trigger assembly. Now it works slicker than deer guts on a door knob. Thanks for all the suggestions.


Good! Most of the time that's the issue. A lot of guys don't take the trigger assembly out and clean it. It's really pretty easy to do.


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Originally Posted by River_Ridge
A good cleaning fixed it. It was a lot dirtier than I realized. I took it apart and hosed it out with electrical contact cleaner several times and lubed it. Then I cleaned the barrel, inside the receiver and trigger assembly. Now it works slicker than deer guts on a door knob. Thanks for all the suggestions.


cool post a pic

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Originally Posted by jwall
G L -

Yes, Brownell's is where I got mine --- in the '80s.

I would call and talk w/them, maybe they have some that are not on the site.

God luck

Jerry

I decided to go McPherson's suggested route. Cost ... one old screwdriver, two sacrificial hacksaw blades (pretty tough shank), some electric tape and some sweat.

Here it is in action.

[Linked Image]

And here is the action tube less the o-ring. At first, I couldn't even find the o-ring, but then it fell out from inside tube. Not the outer tube though. It was inside the tube with the groove for it ... odd. Pic isn't the best, but the o-ring is shriveled, broken and rotted out. So the rattle should be cured once I get it replaced. I'm thinking Sil-Glyde brake caliper grease might be a good lube for it or maybe some of the wax based dry lubes used for chains.

[Linked Image]


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Gringo -

I reckon that'll work. <grin> Glad you were able to get it apart. Try to get it back together AS TIGHT as it was.

I've been using 760s & M 6s for a long time which involved several rifles. Fortunately I've never had one that rattled. I had a friend in La. whose 760 rattled. I would get one fixed IF it rattled too.

Congrats

Jerry


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WD-40 is what ruins those O-rings in the first place.

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Originally Posted by MagMarc
Originally Posted by River_Ridge
A good cleaning fixed it. It was a lot dirtier than I realized. I took it apart and hosed it out with electrical contact cleaner several times and lubed it. Then I cleaned the barrel, inside the receiver and trigger assembly. Now it works slicker than deer guts on a door knob. Thanks for all the suggestions.


cool post a pic


Please excuse the lack of see-through mounts. grin

[Linked Image]


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Looks good. I have a Leupold 2-7 on my 7600. It came with see-through so if you want them...... wink laugh

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So the tube that holds the barrel in is just a friction fit?

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Originally Posted by benchman
So the tube that holds the barrel in is just a friction fit?


If I understand your ?, No.

The tool, or as in the pic, a screw driver with a proper fitting end -- UNscrews that tube from the receiver and holds the barrel TIGHT against the receiver.

Jerry


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Gringo Loco, did you need to apply heat to the action tube to break it loose?


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Originally Posted by Dave_in_WV
Gringo Loco, did you need to apply heat to the action tube to break it loose?

Not at all. There was no thread locker on it. I first tried just using hand pressure on the screwdriver - no dice. Then I gave it a light bump with that non-marring mallet you see in the pic. Still didn't break, so I gave it a sharper rap and it broke loose. If I were to apply a thread locker, I would go with something like blue instead of red, and only a little at the end of the thread engagement. When tightening it back up, I'll bump it with about the same force as I did to break as suggested by jwall. The modified screwdriver worked like a charm.

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Originally Posted by Gringo Loco
[Linked Image]



Considering 'where' the tube is, I would never consider any heat source stronger than a hair dryer. I've never needed to use heat anyway.

Jerry


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Originally Posted by TomM1
Why hasnt anyone come up with a teflon ring in-lieu of the rubber crap? I remember replacing one the rubber ones, and the smith lubed it after replacing. Then at zero temps it froze up. Teflon would last forever and never need to be lubed.

I'm not sure teflon would work forever. Teflon has great temperature, chemical and low friction properties, but it has drawbacks (see below). Choosing the right material is a balance of compromises for temperature ranges, chemical resistance and mechanical properties.

Originally Posted by Source: www.theoringstore.com
PTFE is not a rubber compound, but a white thermoplastic resin which can be formed into various shapes by either machining or molding. It is a premium grade material which is often specified in harsh chemical environments where no rubber material is suitable as it is impervious to virtually all fluids and gases. PTFE exhibits very low moisture absorption and can withstand extreme high and low temperatures. It also provides the lowest coefficient of friction of any seal material. One major drawback to using PTFE is its tendency to deform under a continuous load, a phenomenon commonly known as creep or cold flow. Loading PTFE with fillers such as bronze, graphite, glass, or molybdenum disulfide can counteract this behavior substantially. PTFE also has relatively poor elasticity compared to other sealing materials.


I just ordered an array of o-rings from TheOringStore.com for $8.44 shipping included. I didn't want to spend the dollars for just a single o-ring from Remington or MidwayUSA. The Remington o-ring part number is F15215 and costs $4.37 + $6 shipping from Remington. MidwayUSA charges $5.99 and according to one reviewer, $8 shipping. However, ordering one on your own leaves you with having to figure out what material and size you need. The material Remington uses is viton, not your typical rubber o-ring found at the plumbing or hardware store. However, there are several different choices of viton o-rings with differing properties. I also looked at teflon, nitrile and polyurethane o-rings. I ruled out teflon but I am getting a few polyurethane and nitrile o-rings as well as some vitons. The prices are cheap enough that shipping is the largest cost factor.

As for size, from some online searching I found a post from another forum stating the 760's o-ring is 0.5" ID and 0.06 thick. I also measured mine to be 0.5" ID and ~1/16" thick. That corresponds to a number 014 size o-ring which is nominally 0.5" ID, 1/16" or 0.070 +/- .003 thick and 5/8" OD ( O-ring Size Chart).

I think the biggest issues with the o-ring failures are cold temps, grit in the action tube, harsh chemicals from gun cleaners and poor lubes or no lube. The viton is resistant to a lot of harsh chemicals, but not all of them. So I wouldn't shoot gun scrubber, carb cleaner or acetone up inside the action tube where the o-ring is, unless you've disassembled it and removed the o-ring first, and only use a lube that's good for cold temps and friendly to o-rings. It's not that difficult to disassemble and clean a 760/7600. You just need the right tools and the know-how => Gunsmithing Disassembly: Remington 7600 (Gunworks) .

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Hey Gringo.....

That's a lot of useful info. Thnx for the details. I've e mailed this post to myself to put in storage.
Very Good.

Jerry


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Yes, thanks for posting, lets us know how the new material works out.


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Originally Posted by TomM1
Yes, thanks for posting, lets us know how the new material works out.

Hahaha. All that gack I posted for "just an o-ring". Your comment about the teflon is what got me to searching the different materials ... that and the rather high cost to get more than one of Remington's. Honestly though, unless there is an obvious shortcoming from any of them or a quick failure, it will likely be some time before I see any difference. In some searching online, a lot of guys just go to the plumbing section of their hardware store and find one that fits. And they recommend that to others in their forums, so even plain rubber ones must work for at least a little while. I figure I just purchased more than a lifetime supply of o-rings for this gun. I hunt in Texas and it doesn't get as cold, usually, as it does in your neck of the woods in Pa. My 7600 35 Whelen, by the way, came from Pa. I bought it on Gunbroker. Vintage 1988 according to Remington.

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Great info! Thanks!

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