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Howdy. I know this is not the Savage collectors forum but I have a few questions about my weekend purchase and I seems a lot of you nice folks are very knowledgeable about the 24. I bought one this weekend as a project gun that I looked at a month ago and had to go back to the pawn shop and get. You know the kind you regret not trying to deal on the last time that you know will be gone? Anyway it is not a collector and I just wanted it for shooting around my place in the country and not worrying about banging it up.

It is a .22 LR / .410. It has 24" barrels. It is missing the sights. It has a small dovetail for the rear sight and a single hole to mount the front sight. I suppose Gun Parts Corp. is where to get those unless someone has a better idea. It is not serial numbered and the left side of the receiver just says Savage Arms Corporation MA and there is not mention of a model 24 or any other model number on the gun. I suppose this was before the 24 designation. Is there any way to tell when this was made? Didn't the serial numbering start in 64?

The gun is not in the greatest shape so I had it in my mind to use some miracle spray paint to paint the barrels and stock and just make a good farm gun out of it. When I got it apart, the rusted areas were really only surface rust and I cleaned it up pretty will with some WD 40, a stiff cloth and some elbow grease. There is really no pitting. Most of the blue is still there and overall looks pretty nice. The stock looks to me to be hardwood and it is scratched but not gouged. I can see now that it is the original finish. I am now planning to strip it down and try to finish it with a reddish stain and some oil. I will not have to sand it. Does this old junked up gun have any collectors value that someone might want for that purpose? I left in in my safe 200 miles from here without taking any pictures so I am sorry about that. I shot both barrels and it shoots fine. I even hit the target in a pretty good group with the .22 barrel just sighting down the top.

Another question is what size socket is required to take off the buttstock? I tried all I have and it doesn't seem to grab on. Does it take a special tool?

Lastly , the trigger guard is some kind of black painted pot metal. It is loose at the front. I removed the rear screw but it won't come off. Is there a screw inside the action that holds the front of it on? I guess I need to look at an exploded parts view.

I have a lot of Savage 99's and one other O/U in .222 / 3" 20 Ga. I also have a few modern Savage rifles. I really like the older ones and all are really, really accurate. Thanks for your help.

BT


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Is there a screw inside the action that holds the front of it on? I guess I need to look at an exploded parts view.


Yes. And it is a bitch to try to work with. Some of the trigger guards on Savage 24 guns were made from a kind of nylon/plastic and they are fragile. You frequently find those guns with the trigger guards missing or broken. Numrich makes a metal replacement trigger guard if you need one, but it does not look anything like the original. It works fine and that is what I had to install on one of mine. They also have the screws to install it if you need them. The screws from Numrich are brass and fragile. DO NOT try to over tighten them or they will break off, but don't ask me how I know.

The older model Savage 24 guns, those made before 1968, did not have serial numbers, but they did put a date code on the receiver and the shot gun barrel. They stopped doing that about 1971 or 72 since they were doing serial numbers then.

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Another question is what size socket is required to take off the buttstock? I tried all I have and it doesn't seem to grab on. Does it take a special tool?


Those I have worked on took a big flat head screw driver with a long shank to remove the stock. I have not seen one that uses a socket, but I have not seen them all and there were variations in them as models changed and years passed.

You need to have somebody like Brayhaven answer the technical questions. I am not a gunsmith, but I can and do fix minor things and replace parts. I haven't screwed a gun up now in about 40 years or so, but then I don't try to do things that I used to either. It was expensive learning what not to try.



Last edited by Ragnar73; 02/22/16.

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Savage and Stevens combination guns have some collector interest, but only for those units in great condition or in an uncommon configuration.

I'd look at a front sight from GPC or Jack First, but instead of the open rear sight, I'd look for a Redfield peep sight that mounts via the grooves in the top barrel. These are alloy sights, maybe the RE-24s? There is also a similar Williams peep sight, maybe the WGRS-24?

If you're interested in the Savage 24s, the best write-up that I've read is Marshall Stanton's article in the Tech Notes section at www.beartoothbullets.com

This "How To" set of instructions may also be of interest to you, as the trigger pull on the Savage 24s of all ages tend to run from bad to worse: http://www.cylindersmith.com/savage24/24trig.html

EDIT: I have a Bushnell 4x20 scope on my .22Mag over 410, attached via B-Square Weaver adapters and B-Square SUV 1" rings.

Last edited by 260Remguy; 02/22/16. Reason: Added comment
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Serials on all firearms were rqrd with the GCA and started appearing in late 67 on some and all firearms 68 and on.
(Obviously many firearms were serial stamped way back before this).
Stevens / Savage 24 date codes.
A 1949      B 1950      C 1951
D 1952      E 1953      F 1954
G 1955      H 1956      I 1957
J 1958      K 1959      L 1960
M 1961      N 1962      P 1963
R 1964      S 1965      T 1966
U 1967      V 1968      W 1969
X1970

You will find a date code stamped on every shotgun,rifle and combo-gun made by the Savage,Stevens, Springfield and their “house brands” produced between March 1949 and December 1968 – some models on through 1970. Usually, it is behind the hinge pin or ahead of the trigger guard on the bottom of the frame. It will appear as a small oval containing a number and a letter. The letters correspond to the years shown in the above table. The Number was the inspector ID.

Ragnar is correct on the buttstock having a large slotted screw.

Your quest for sights is going to be tough. The correct front sight is hard to find and the rear sights, though they can be located, are an el cheapo unit that works loose. You may get some suggestions here, Is your barrel grooved for a scope?

Last edited by Dons1; 02/23/16.
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24 Sight Options - Food for thought:

Here is my latest M 24 project. The rear peep is a Lyman 53C. It sits low enough so you can use the original front sight. Here it is sitting lower than its correct position. "Why?", you are sure to ask, "is there a scope-related hammer spur on this 24?". Answer is the thing is hard to cock and my grandson can't manage to cock the narrow hammer without some "help".
[Linked Image]

Here's a jerry-rig scope set-up on my Crosman .22 pump-up. Clamps on the bbl. Kinda awkward, but it works well.
[Linked Image]

Below are some aftermarket sights avail for the 24. The Redfield Model 24 peep is made specifically for the Sav 24's that have the grooved bbl. Note in the bottom pic the sight is domed in order to clear the shape of the bbl. It also needs a riser that elevates the front sight.
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]

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Thanks to all you guys for your replies. I didn't see a date code on the receiver or the shotgun barrel but I will look with a magnifying glass this weekend. I have old eyes and two new plastic lenses to look through so I might not have seen it since I didn't know where to look. Maybe I will take Ragnars advice and not screw with the trigger guard screw. The last time someone told me something was a bitch I married her. Now she is an ex-wife. Plus, I have screwed up a gun recently. Maybe some epoxy would take care of the loose part. My .22 barrel is not grooved though I do like peep sights. I will check out all the references you pointed me too. These forums are a great source of information and help.


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Those cast, pot metal, trigger guards are pretty fragile, considering what their intended purpose is, and they will crumble under pressure. I know this because I had that happen on one of those brushed chrome 24DLs.

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Quote 260 Remguy:
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Those cast, pot metal, trigger guards are pretty fragile, considering what their intended purpose is, and they will crumble under pressure. I know this because I had that happen on one of those brushed chrome 24DLs.

Yes sir, you are absolutely correct because I had it happen to me on a brushed chrome (I thought it was nickel plated over copper whatever it is) on a 24 DL also. But it was busted when I got it.


Quote Blowtorch 53:
Quote
These forums are a great source of information and help.

I AGREE!!!! I learn something new and useful around here almost every day. It is GREAT to be able to tap into all the experience and knowledge some of these guys have. And they all give their information so freely and in such a helpful way that even a dumb ass like me can usually understand and follow it.

Last edited by Ragnar73; 02/23/16.

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I can't remember if they are electroless nickle plated or brushed chrome.

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I can't make out what the numbers are on mine. It has a 6 for sure but the letter looks a little like an A. Mine says savage 24 series P on the right side and the numbers B548689 on the left. It has no side/center ribs only a band that holds the barrels together on the end with the front sight made onto it. The top barrel is 22LR the bottom is a 20 ga mod. with 3" chambers. The bottom barrel shoots low. I still love the little gun. Had it for 3 or 4 years, wanted one for 30.

Not to high jack the thread but it is on subject.


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Seal,

Not a highjack at all - in fact it brings up some useful data on why you can squint and mumble looking for that date code football, to no avail.

My Savage/Stevens cheat sheet shows the B prefix to be manuf '72-'74. That would be after they discontinued putting the date code ovals on their firearms. No need to, as all firearms were serialized by then.

Regarding those pot metal trigger guards, they (Savage/Stevens) used those same units on several low end single barrel shotgun models. You'd think there would be plenty around in parts bins at gun shows. I've only found one, which I keep for an extra.

Below is a trigger guard off of a no name double bbl that I rigged to fit this 24DL. Worked/looked so well that I'll leave it be. The loose trigger guards at bottom are the POS plastic unit that a previous owner had engineered. Also on the left is another guard similar to the one I installed.
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Dang Dons1, that looks GOOD!! That is a good idea.

260 Remguy

You are correct. They are hard chrome. Something I have around here is nickel finished. Dang it!!! Now I'll hafta go look for it and I don't even know what I'm looking for. HAR!!! It's fun being an old fart. Where did I leave my glasses?

Last edited by Ragnar73; 02/23/16.

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The last one of those that came in with a broken trigger guard, I just drilled another hole behind the break & drilled & tapped another hole in the receiver. Yours is nicer, but the guy was in a hurry and didn't want to spend any $


Greg
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My first "real" gun (after a BB gun) was a Stevens 22/410 when I was very young. However, being young and stupid I later sold it to a guy who offered me double what my father paid (still below what they are worth). Anyways, I always regretted it and this year found a much nicer - still far from mint condition replacement.
The rear sight could wiggle side to side and it bothered me, so I made a new non-adjustable solid steel replacement - it's much smaller and fits rock solid. Then I decided to refinish the stock - which I thought would be the last improvement.... The front sight was hard for me to see especially in lower light so I machined 2 new fiberoptic replacements. And finally the infamous trigger guard. The one on my original broke and it was the only visible pot metal on this one so I decided to make a replacement from real steel. I decided to use a button head capscrew instead of the stupid low profile slotted screw. This allows me to use a ball end wrench and tighten/loosen easily from the hammer slot when the hammer is cocked.

I would/will post pictures but the parts are all out getting hot blued as we speak. Pictures to come.

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Wrong forum. Sorry.

Last edited by Ragnar73; 02/25/16.

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BlowTorch,

Did you find a repl rear sight for your 24? I think I have a new one squirreled-away somewhere. Advise if you still need one and if I can find it we can work up a decent price.

Problem I have found with those older M24 single dovetail units is they invariably get loose and wobbly. Probably the best solution for that unit is to get your best windage adj and solder or epoxy in place.
Don

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If anyone needs a 53 D receiver sight I have a minty one (no box or mounting screws).

PM me. Thanks.

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I don't have a rear sight or a front sight. If you have one Don, I would be interested. It is a very small dovetail the one I think they call 3/16". I haven't seen one for sale and when you order from Numrich, you might or might not get what you need with old stuff like this. The front sight has a single screw. I don't think those are hard to find. PM me if you got one. I was thinking about trying to slim one down from a couple of old rear sight assemblies I have in my junk box.

I would say that the gun cleaned up much better than I ever thought it would. Most up the rust came off with a little WD-40 and some paper towels. No need for steel wool. The barrels have a good blue. I am going to epoxy the trigger guard.


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Have you tried Jack First in Rapid City, SD?

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Sorry I haven't replied. Well thanks to Dons1 in NC, I have a got a nice rear site. Very nice guy. Found a front sight from Numrich. Tightened up the trigger guard with a skinny screwdriver through the hammer slot like you guys told me. My wife was kind enough to lightly clean and oil finish the stock and I got it all back together. For an old Savage like this that looks like it was ready for the scrap heap sitting in a pawn shop, this turned out to be a really nice little combo gun and it shoots great. If I can take a decent picture of it, I will post it an show you guys. I have sat at a desk most of my life and I am just now remembering and learning how to do fun things like this restoration with my hands again. The hardest thing for me is to learn to have patience again when working on things like this. The reward is surely worth it.


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