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I asked Ray Price the same thing once, he chuckles and says if was a jap bike they would all be in the same case and you don't hear about reliability problems Gold Wings.


Originally Posted By: P_Weed

I never met a gun I didn't like.

SEdge,

I have an AMT Hardballer I can fix you up with.
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Originally Posted by SEdge
I asked Ray Price the same thing once, he chuckles and says if was a jap bike they would all be in the same case and you don't hear about reliability problems Gold Wings.


Yamaha's replacing a chit ton of trannies on their R1's right now....


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In my juiced up SG & a bone stock RKC, I've used either Amsoil or Mobil One in the engines.....I can't see any difference. Change at 2.5 - 3K.

Redline syn primary lube & Redline syn transmission lube.

The Redline makes for noticably smoother shifting with less clunk, period, end of story.

Change the primary & transmission at 5K; safe intervals.

MM


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Originally Posted by teal
Originally Posted by SEdge
I asked Ray Price the same thing once, he chuckles and says if was a jap bike they would all be in the same case and you don't hear about reliability problems Gold Wings.


Yamaha's replacing a chit ton of trannies on their R1's right now....


R-1s aren't a long range machine and everyone builds a problem now and then. I would trust what Ray Price says any day. Google his name.


Originally Posted By: P_Weed

I never met a gun I didn't like.

SEdge,

I have an AMT Hardballer I can fix you up with.
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Originally Posted By: P_Weed

I never met a gun I didn't like.

SEdge,

I have an AMT Hardballer I can fix you up with.
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Not discounting his expertise - simply stating that Yamaha - a jap bike is having trans issues.





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I use Mobile#1 10W40 car oil.Motorcycle branded oil is all hype.


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Nice bike Teal! My current H-D is a '09 FLTR(along with a F800GS, and DR-Z400S for the gravel/dirt). Been riding one Harley or another, for going on 25+ years. I tried the Syn3 in all 3 for a time, and it works fine. Nowadays, oil is at such a high level of performance, that as long as you change it at regular intervals, I don't think it makes a rats ass difference what you run, as long as it meets the manufactures suggested rating. That said, I now run Syn3(or another high quality equivalent) in the crankcase, and Formula+ in the tranny and primary. Mainly because the shifting just feels better with Formula+ over Syn3. JMO. Keep the rubber side down, and enjoy that bike!

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Thanks - what I like about it is there just isn't a huge fat bob following in my area. EVERYONE rides either a Road King or a Street Glide. Occasional sportster thrown in.

I'm not of the opinion that an XL is a chick's bike - I rather like them but still - the FB isn't uber popular up here so at the least, mine will be easy to find in the parking lot.

Am giving some thought to upgrading the lights to Daymakers. My commute is 40 miles one way to work. Straight farm country so a lot of coons and skunks on the road.


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Originally Posted by Huntz
I use Mobile#1 10W40 car oil.Motorcycle branded oil is all hype.


not really. the motorcycle oil is formulated to work with wet clutches. friction modifiers in automotive oils can ruin a clutch. SHORT VERSION

and a glory shot of mine

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Originally Posted by teal
I never got to crank on a 103. Bikes been in the family since my great uncle bought his first HD in the 30's. Dad got his when he was 13 or something.

Been on em, around em etc but this is the first one with my name on my title.

Currently my mother is the only other with a bike, dad having sold his Bonneville a couple of years ago but she's the type to have the dealer do all the service so I come to the collective wisdom of the 'fire.

Appreciate it. I had one of those in vivid black, an '08 the first year they came out. If engine heat is a problem get rid of the factory exhaust. I put slip on's on mine and it cooled it off quite a bit. Rode it from Pa. to Mo. in the summer of '08. I sold it because of my job. Too many hours and not enough time for riding. I really like the color of yours.


Went in looking to see what I'd be able to afford - walked out with this - Tax/Title/License and bike for the price of a new Sportster. Did okay I think.

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Some people don't like the twin headlamps but I have a pic from the HD museum of a 29 with the same exact set up - same size, everything. It's been around a long time.

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Dave - I might have to look at something like those moto's.

The FB's headlight arrangement doesn't make it easy to find aftermarket light kits without going MoCo and the MoCo likes their $$.

The daymakers seem to be real impressive.

[video:youtube]Q71KiTB9Ax8[/video]


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If your bike has a separate resivour for the transmission then I would run a oil like redline made for motorcycle transmissions. As for the engine run whatever makes you feel good as long as the weight isnt to thin. I run synthetic rotella in my bike but it's a single cylinder enduro and it's water cooled. For an air cooled motor I'd say thicker oil like a 20w50. The motorcycle oil is hype to a degree, if you don't have a wet clutch run whatever you want if you have a wet clutch run rotella, it's cheaper than bike oil, doesn't have friction modifiers and even has a bike certification on the jug. Even car oils don't have friction modifiers in heavier weights, but they don't have as much zinc and phosphorus which won't matter much either if the motor has already been broke in.

Mobile 1 makes a 15w50 that has a high zinc and phosphorus level with no friction modifiers that comes in a 5 quart jug that is great for bikes. I guarantee it's cheaper than harley oil and just as good and is way more widely available.


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H-D stuff is always expensive.
The motolights are expensive too.
They come in two wattages,the lower wattage is better for lighting up the sides of the road at night.The brighter 55 watt is for being seen in daylight.Seem backwards.Mine are the 55 watters..But it gives you a triangle of light,high and low that texting 20 year old chicks seen to notice alittle more.
Can never have enough light on the front of your bike....

dave


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Originally Posted by seal_billy
If your bike has a separate resivour for the transmission then I would run a oil like redline made for motorcycle transmissions. As for the engine run whatever makes you feel good as long as the weight isnt to thin. I run synthetic rotella in my bike but it's a single cylinder enduro and it's water cooled. For an air cooled motor I'd say thicker oil like a 20w50. The motorcycle oil is hype to a degree, if you don't have a wet clutch run whatever you want if you have a wet clutch run rotella, it's cheaper than bike oil, doesn't have friction modifiers and even has a bike certification on the jug. Even car oils don't have friction modifiers in heavier weights, but they don't have as much zinc and phosphorus which won't matter much either if the motor has already been broke in.

Mobile 1 makes a 15w50 that has a high zinc and phosphorus level with no friction modifiers that comes in a 5 quart jug that is great for bikes. I guarantee it's cheaper than harley oil and just as good and is way more widely available.


^^^^^
Sound advice as far as cycle oil goes imo.

Teal, that is a good lookin scooter. I really like that color.

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Just a couple miles shy of 80,000 miles on my 86 Yamaha Venture running Rotella T, not a lick of problems. Still runs strong.


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AmsOil or Redline, mostly Amsoil.


“You never need fear a man, no matter what his size. When danger threatens, call on me, and I will equalize.”
Samuel Colt.

�Common sense is genius dressed up in work clothes.� - Ralph Waldo Emerson

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