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Originally Posted by 4ager
Try this shooting method, with a lighter draw weight bow -

http://www.tradbow.com/public/310520-Shooting-Method.cfm


I'm gonna check this out as soon as I get through typing!

Thanks 4


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Miles, first of all Thanks, I can get stacked pretty solid and still have a good bit of strength reserves, but, they are completely useless without proper form, I appreciate the tips and advice.


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Originally Posted by rost495
I've no issue if someone wants a pin on their recurve or long bow.

I don't want that anymore, but I did have a recurve with them once..

And did tape an eraser on a long bow and put a stick pin in for a sight...

The stick bows to me are best done instinctive, but that takes a LOT of practice and short distances...

Personally I won't shoot past 15 anyway so hubcap size groups(6-8 inches or so ) are more than good enough anyway.

The other thought, if you are having trouble, it could be the bow just isn't fit for you... not that its a long bow, just doens't fit...

BIL has an old ben pearson 60 pounder... I can't shoot it for flip...

Go to my brack recurve, I'm fine and at 15 I can usually come close to touching fletches


10-4 on the above Rost, but the 'fit' part is where I don't understand, this bow feels like a fine instrument, everything I try to do with it including drawing and firing is so damn easy and smooth, I don't know what else I could do or even ask for a better feeling and easier to fire bow, I just gotta learn where to hold the dang thing. blush


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Originally Posted by gunner500
Originally Posted by 4ager
Try this shooting method, with a lighter draw weight bow -

http://www.tradbow.com/public/310520-Shooting-Method.cfm


I'm gonna check this out as soon as I get through typing!

Thanks 4


I like it, and I have a byGod lot of shooting to do grin, but, I don't have a lighter bow.


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Originally Posted by gunner500
Originally Posted by 4ager
Originally Posted by centershot
What draw weight is your longbow? I ask because all too often guys get in a little too heavy and make it very hard to learn to shoot well. A 30# bow can teach you more in a couple hours than a 50# bow can in a couple years...


This is an excellent point. I know gunner can likely draw an English war bow, but form matters most of all and especially with trad bows.


Yes, used to shoot for years an old round wheel Oregon Deschutes bow with a 90 lb draw, it happens to still be the quietest and smoothest compound bow I've ever had/fired.


I may have your old Oregon...


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America needs to understand that our troops are not 'disposable'. Each represents a family; Fathers, Mothers, Sons, Daughters, Cousins, Uncles, Aunts... Our Citizens are our most valuable treasure; we waste far too many.
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Are the arrows spined for the extra four inches of draw weight?

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I like to say that it's like learning to shoot with a .22lr or a 30-06. I know which one I'd rather shoot 100 rounds through in an afternoon......

I'm personally a holder and gap aimer with trad and compounds. Holding for any length of time for me with a bow over 45-50# = the shakes after a dozen or so shots. My form breaks down and accuracy suffers. So most of the time I shoot my 30# limbs indoors at leagues etc and switch to the heavier ones when I go outdoors. Whenever I have a hitch in my shooting the light limbs come out and I sort out the issue before switching back. I think the sooner one figures out shooting well with trad gear is more about finesse than brute strength the sooner he will start shooting to his potential.

Last edited by centershot; 06/10/16.

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Originally Posted by gunner500
Originally Posted by rost495
I've no issue if someone wants a pin on their recurve or long bow.

I don't want that anymore, but I did have a recurve with them once..

And did tape an eraser on a long bow and put a stick pin in for a sight...

The stick bows to me are best done instinctive, but that takes a LOT of practice and short distances...

Personally I won't shoot past 15 anyway so hubcap size groups(6-8 inches or so ) are more than good enough anyway.

The other thought, if you are having trouble, it could be the bow just isn't fit for you... not that its a long bow, just doens't fit...

BIL has an old ben pearson 60 pounder... I can't shoot it for flip...

Go to my brack recurve, I'm fine and at 15 I can usually come close to touching fletches


10-4 on the above Rost, but the 'fit' part is where I don't understand, this bow feels like a fine instrument, everything I try to do with it including drawing and firing is so damn easy and smooth, I don't know what else I could do or even ask for a better feeling and easier to fire bow, I just gotta learn where to hold the dang thing. blush


Have you tried shooting 'gap' with a high anchor and 3 under?


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Your bow, if it helps your shooting, who cares what other's think?

Cloverdale this weekend.

Seen at a shoot long ago, 4 ft gap on a 25 yard shot, trees about a yard out from the stake. Both trees tore to shreds............yeah, some people run that bad a tune.

Bet they don't have a sight and that makes them feel special.

If you hit the target and take your game cleanly, that's good enough.

Screw what others think.

It's YOUR bow.

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I love split finger but got hurt.
So went 3 under and higher anchor.
Gap system was stoopid easy.
Ran 2 sight pictures, and 2 anchors.
20 was one slightly low aim with high anchor, 25 was aim a little higher, same high anchor. 30 was same sight picture as 20, but with low anchor.
Deer shows up at 25, popped him right on the money.
Not fluid, not as smooth/fast.........but damn if it don't work.

Not running ILF and don't like long bows, so a fixed crawl proly not something I'll experiment with. My old instinctive way, split, or face walk 3 under. Injuries/time will dictate what method this yr.

Torn finger pulley tendons still funky once in a while (bow hand). Broken finger on draw hand is fine.

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My injury bow is 43#.
My 3D/Hunter is 48#
60 was a chore when I got hurt, did it........but think dropping to 55 and having FF string should be same performance and a little easier.
Problem is.........can't find a HS58 like that. Everything is 60" or 60#. Ugh.

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4ager, if you do it bet it's still a dandy. smile


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Originally Posted by AH64guy
Are the arrows spined for the extra four inches of draw weight?


Don't really know what this means AH64, my longbow arrows are the Carbon Express Heritage 350's with 145 gr field points to match the 145 gr Stos broadhead.


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Centershot, don't know how or what gap shooting is either, I try to shoot sighting down the arrow, have also realized too much or not enough "cant" will sling arrows all over the damn place. mad


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Thanks Hook, I'm gonna give 4agers cardboard training program a shot to see if I can do it mentally, if that doesn't work I may try a pin and say to hell with what anyone else thinks.

Having so many different methods of fire, I can't master any,

Double rifle
Sharps rifle
Peep sighted Levers
Scoped bolt guns
Iron sighted Muzzleloaders
Pistols
Revolvers
Shotguns at flying clay birds
Compound bow
Longbow

It's a compounded confounded cluster f-ck! grin

Sorry about your injury and hope you heal muy pronto.


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Originally Posted by gunner500
Originally Posted by rost495
I've no issue if someone wants a pin on their recurve or long bow.

I don't want that anymore, but I did have a recurve with them once..

And did tape an eraser on a long bow and put a stick pin in for a sight...

The stick bows to me are best done instinctive, but that takes a LOT of practice and short distances...

Personally I won't shoot past 15 anyway so hubcap size groups(6-8 inches or so ) are more than good enough anyway.

The other thought, if you are having trouble, it could be the bow just isn't fit for you... not that its a long bow, just doens't fit...

BIL has an old ben pearson 60 pounder... I can't shoot it for flip...

Go to my brack recurve, I'm fine and at 15 I can usually come close to touching fletches


10-4 on the above Rost, but the 'fit' part is where I don't understand, this bow feels like a fine instrument, everything I try to do with it including drawing and firing is so damn easy and smooth, I don't know what else I could do or even ask for a better feeling and easier to fire bow, I just gotta learn where to hold the dang thing. blush


I didn't make time to read below this post...

If its not stacking and you think you are fine... 60 would be a lot of weight IMHO, IE my brack is made to my draw length specifically, and only around 52 or so IIRC pounds. Plenty weight with a good arrow and COC head.( are there any other kind? LOL)

Anyway I saw the link, and I didn't read it, above, but i suspect its going to be telling you to start with any new to you bow, and start close. When I've changed bows sometimes I"m Way off... instinctively. Your body and eye and brain have to get used to that. I start up around 5 steps or so, and since you can ruin arrows if you are decent shooting gropus, I usually try a few aiming points and shoot 1 only at each.
Once I get to where im' not 6 inches or whatever off, I move back a bit at a time. I stop at 15 obviously because our deer move way to much at the shot and its not ethical to take longer shots here. I practiced way further out than that for caribou one summer..

But start up close and small... then move out. I'd think that a summer of shooting will make it all good.

And a really weird note.. I will shoot a glove before a tab, but I generally try not to shoot antyhing but bare fingers... its tough to get them toughened up... but I have much better release and anchor feeling.

Finally even at 15, I often make a tiny dot to aim at, and sometimes its something small like the busted nock off an arrow or even a piece of arrow shaft stuck in the block. Aim small miss small I think they say.

I HAVE to concentrate on the smallest hair so to speak, and then life usually worked right.

All that said, my recurve gathers dust due to a fire injury. I see it laying there every night on the cedar chest when I go to bed..... that sucks.


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Rost, I had a lengthy talk on the phone today with an 'old fart' that's been an instinctive bow shooter for 40 years, hand, eye, brain is where it's at, I gotta shoot a lot to develop proper muscle memory, "hit where you look".

He used to shoot eggs and ping pong balls at 20 yards, if I can even get half way to there I'll be good.

Need to chrono my bow just outta curiosity, wouldn't surprise me if it wasn't near or at 200 fps, it is also extremely quite, have never tried a glove or bare fingers, the soft tabs feel really nice on draw and release though.


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While a tab is fine for a compound due to reduced holding weight, I think you'd be better off with a good three fingered leather glove for the longbow.

Make sure your arrows are tuned to your weight/length. You're pissing in the wind right out of the gate if they aren't. A good tune can get you shooting groups with bare shafts at 20 yards.

Start close like in the link, and work your way back. Quit at the first sign of fatigue, focus, etc, and wait several hours or till the next day. A few arrows at a time, several times a day is a better approach. Bend at the knees and back, don't stand straight up like an olympic shooter. Push and pull at the same time.

It'll take till fall to get to where you need to be, where instinct is 2nd nature, and yardage is forgotten.

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gunner,

As others have said, it's your bow, you want a sight pin, you put one on.

I made a pair of moccasins in a class taught by an old Apache lady. Wondered if it would be reasonable to paint some leaves (for camo effect) and such on them. Didn't want to offend or break any traditions. Asked her, she says "They're your "boots", you want leaves on them, go ahead and paint them".

Others have mentioned tuning. Have you played any with brace height? Sometimes little things like changing type of string silencers helps too.

Maybe try a dozen real arrows, of the wooden sort? shocked

Sometimes I think the attraction is all the trial and error, kinda like reloading and finding that "just right" load. (After all , who wants to shoot a rifle that gets 2" groups at deer 50 yards from the stand?)

Good luck,

Geno

PS, I still have the moccasins and still hunt in them.


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Olympians run tabs.

Got no prob running a KP300 or BW 3 under tab at 55-62# recurves.

After G Fred came out with his book, it made a ton of trad archers look like they had to poop while shooting an arrow.

Lots of crazy forms out there. Most don't work well for the subscriber either.

Look at the Youtube IBO Trad world vids.......think they are composites of stills, b ut you'll see different gear/form and the effect.

Also look up some Jimmy Blackmon vids.

As long as you are solid and comfy, can repeat it............that's half the battle. The rest is tune and methods to shrink gap so the short distances are learned quickly and ingrained as to be instinctive later.

A too low anchor will make for a huge gap and it's just too tough without a sight.

Like others have said, aim small, miss small.

Ping pong balls at 20 yards......we put a superball from gum type vending machine on a wood screw and strung it up in front of the 20 yard indoor bales and shot it on the swing. You'd be surprised how often it was scared silly, and how many times it got nailed.

Those postage stamp sized florescent stickers for pricing? Yeah, one of those on a sheet of cardboard on your bag target, or on your foam deer.

Hard to see what's going on sometimes. Not everybody has same visual acuity.

Paper tune is your friend.


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