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Yes, I do run some without sizing, if the bullet OD is correct. 9mm plinking ammo for example, with the Lee 120-TC mold.

I pretty much use the same criteria for sizing as regular cast/tumble lubed bullet.

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Youndering, Thanks for the response! Now, another question. You mentioned that your using the yellow green for your high velocity rounds. I contacted PBTP and their claim was, that all colors are equal in abrasion resistance, temperature stability, ext. Do you find this to be true! Yellow Green just ain't my color! grin memtb

Last edited by memtb; 08/05/16.

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For normal powder coating applications they are probably all equal, but in my experience they do act a little differently on bullets. There are a couple characteristics that matter:

- dry powder adhesion to the bullet
- ease of breaking stuck bullets apart after baking
- toughness of the coating in the bore

Since we're using the powder a bit differently than it was designed for, we might be seeing differences that don't show up for a normal powder coating use. The white and candy blue colors I've tried, for example, are tough and coat well, but stick together so badly that they aren't practical unless you want to separate all the bullets before baking.

One other color that works really well for me is a dark metallic green, also from PBTP, but I haven't used a lot of it since I'm not sure if the metallic particles are abrasive. (they may be plastic and harmless, I'm not sure)

I just started working with a "Bottle Green" from PBTP, it seems to work well so far but I don't have much time with it yet. It's sorta between Olive Drab and Forest Green.

Just experiment with different colors, they aren't all the same but I think there are probably lots of them that work really well.

Last edited by Yondering; 08/05/16.
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Yondering, Thanks for all of the help. memtb


You should not use a rifle that will kill an animal when everything goes right; you should use one that will do the job when everything goes wrong." -Bob Hagel

“I’d like to be a good rifleman…..but, I prefer to be a good hunter”! memtb 2024
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Quote
So far nothing has been as good as RAL 6018, but there are literally thousands of options out there so the dozen or so I've tried are just a drop in the bucket. My best results have been with "TGIC Polyester" powders from PBTP.


I just got off of their website and I can't find anything telling me where to find these powders mentioned. All that I see are litte cars with funny sounding color names by them. Where am I going wrong? miles


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Miles, not an easy website to navigate!!!! I wish I could offer some good suggestions,but I've slept since I "muddled" my way through it!!! smile memtb


After thinking about it for a bit,I think that I finally called them on the phone!

Last edited by memtb; 08/15/16.

You should not use a rifle that will kill an animal when everything goes right; you should use one that will do the job when everything goes wrong." -Bob Hagel

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Originally Posted by milespatton
Quote
So far nothing has been as good as RAL 6018, but there are literally thousands of options out there so the dozen or so I've tried are just a drop in the bucket. My best results have been with "TGIC Polyester" powders from PBTP.


I just got off of their website and I can't find anything telling me where to find these powders mentioned. All that I see are litte cars with funny sounding color names by them. Where am I going wrong? miles


I haven't had any trouble finding colors on their site? The little cars are just templates showing the colors. You can browse through the RAL colors, or look through the green colors for Yellow Green.

A google search of "powder buy the pound ral 6018" brings up that color in the first result. Here: https://www.powderbuythepound.com/RAL_6018_YELLOW_GREEN.html

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Does the coating come off during the sizing, or does it hold up OK?

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Originally Posted by WayneShaw
Does the coating come off during the sizing, or does it hold up OK?


If the coating is done correctly, it does not come off when sizing or when shooting. If it comes off, you've done something wrong.

Here are some examples of my recovered bullets; as you can see the coating is generally intact. (Not all of them are perfect, I experiment a lot.) The black stuff on some of them is powder fouling, not missing coating.

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

Last edited by Yondering; 10/31/16.
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Originally Posted by pabucktail
You just saved me alot of frustration. I'm gonna get the 280gr NOE mold with the pins to try different nose types. I'll have to experiment to see how expansion is with the wheelweights.


I use almost pure led with just enough tin to fill out the mold. The deep HP will almost double in size and those I have recovered from A sand backstop none have lost 5 gr of the 280 they started with.


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Yondering, is there any reason sizing could not be done successfully using a Lyman 450 without applying conventional lube?

I also find myself wondering if there would be any benefit to applying conventional lube on a powder coated bullet...I can't imagine how it could be better but I say ya never really KNOW until you try.


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RiverRider, you can certainly size in a Lyman 450 if you want, it's just slower and doesn't always size as straight. But it will do the job just as well as it does for lubed lead bullets.

I have found one situation where it made sense to lube powder coated bullets - when pushing soft bullets at high pressure for hunting loads. I was getting lead rings in the chamber at the case neck and lube grooves were collapsing, but adding lube fixed it. Velocity was too high for that alloy without powder coating. With that said, it was a special circumstance and I don't normally bother with it.

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Thanks for the reply. Good info!


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America will perish while those who should be standing guard are satisfying their lusts.


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Question. I am getting a good coating but when they go onto the non stick foil and into the oven rifle bullets like to stick together. When I break then apart as they cool it leaves a spot of uncoated lead. How big a problem is thei and how do I stop it?

Thanks.


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It depends a bit on the load, but for the most part small uncoated spots are just cosmetic. I've never observed any leading from those bare spots, and accuracy doesn't seem to be affected. An exception might be where two bullets stuck side by side and you have the full length of the driving bands uncoated.

If it's a situation where I want complete coverage, I'll give them two coats; that gives 99% of the bullets complete coverage. (The local indoor shooting range is one of those cases; they specify no exposed lead.)

For rifle loads (which I use at full power normally) I pretty much always use two coats, partly for full coverage and partly for the thicker coating. You may find that's not necessary.

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Thank you for the fast reply. As always your thoughts are more than helpful. I am thinking of placing some coat hanger wires under the foil to make shallow troughs would keep the bullets nose to base and not touching. It would take longer to load a tray but the end result would be better.


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Posted this on another forum the other night and thought of another tip to share:

You want to avoid breathing the powder coating dust, so put the container in a ziploc bag before shaking.

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Just an fyi: The current Dillon Blue Press (June 2017) has a useful article starting on page 48 about loading plated bullets, which seems to me to be similar to loading coated bullets.


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It really is not similar to loading plated bullets. Because of the very soft core, plated bullets are generally not able to handle the pressure and velocity of good powder coated cast bullets, and therefore need to be used with milder low pressure loads. That is not a restriction for powder coated cast bullets.

The only similarity I see is that you should use very little or no crimp with either one.

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I think it was the case prep that made me think of the issues.


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