Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Muzzleloaders Best choice for a conical mold.

I have a newly acquired CVA Steghorn in .50cal inline muzzleloader. 1:28 twist. Manufacturer says conicals only, because of the twist rate. (Some other folk disagree)
I'm interested in your opinion either way and why, but more importly....which mold to buy?.
The burner is built, i have lead cleaned and quite a bit in ingot form now. Flux material is ready. What mold and why that one?

Yeah, no. The staghorn can shoot both conicals and sabots perfectly.

Not a whole lot of choices out there other than custom made, but the lyman 370gr maxi ball mold would do ok.

That or look into the harvester scorpion pt gold 260gr with black crush rib sabots.

REAL bullet mold I have never had much luck with when using the 1:28 twist, they are very short and stubby.

never heard of the scorpion, but then i am new to muzzleloaders. Would you have a link?

Nevermind, i think i found them. Thank you.

https://www.harvestermuzzleloading....-cal-sabot-260-gr-451-polymer-tip-bullet

I believe these are what you referred too?
Question is, is a mold available?



...back to google....

Yes those are the bullets, no mold is available but they are super cheap, accurate and deadly. Just giving some options for an affordable hunting and shooting bullet. Those are expensive but I have a dealer I can hook you up with. Around $19-20 for 100 of them without the sabots.

i have enough now for the next few seasons. store bought bullets and pellets of propellant.
what i am after, is self reliance (making my own,) and finding the sweet spot of this gun with the right measure of powder.
what i need is the right mold. but thank you anyways.

Be sure to use pure, dead soft lead only, unless you plan on packing a hammer around with you like the British "greens" did during the Napoleonic Wars (they had to buy their own hammers due to typical British Army "generosity").

I just ordered a cap ignition for my Knight for BP use. I've got all kinds of projectiles to try that aren't recommended for use with BH209. I also have a mold for the Lee REAL , which has been a popular choice for many years, to the extent that some have gone into business making and selling them, either as-is or with lubed felt wads attached.

One bullet I'm anxious to try is the Hornady version of the ball-et, which makes a dandy RB substitute, but is unusable with BH due to its lack of bore resistance.

I have 260# of soft lead, waiting....i think i have that part covered.
Scavenged the swing door from an x-ray lab. Full door was #1000. Shared with friends.

I have a real mold an no problem with 80 gr of black powder or American pioneer or triple 7 remember 80gr it will go threw a 6-inch pine tree.How much more power do u need

I have a real mold an no problem with 80 gr of black powder or American pioneer or triple 7 remember 80gr

I guess that all depends if you are hunting pine trees. 80gr is a fairly hot load for a REAL conical in a 1-28 twist. The MAXI would be a far better choice.

It might even go through a 10" pine tree.

I used a lot of Lee REAL bullets when I was shooting a sidelock. A local dealer had someone casting for him. Now everyone is using saboted loads. They don't seem to foul as badly and they are easier to load with the narrow driving bands. Here is a link to the heavy .50 cal mold:

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/47...l-50-caliber-517-diameter-320-grain-real

The manufacturer says that the 1:28 twist will not stabilize a ball type ammo enough for accuracy. It will print all over a target. Conicals is the only type they want used in this rifle. (Other folks disagree).
I want to buy one mold, instead of several looking for the best conical. (That is why i asked those who would already know).

I hope to later cast bullets for my .450Bushmaster, but that will be after i start reloading, of course.

One of my in-lines really liked a Maxi Hunter out of a T/C mould with about 100 grains of 777.