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I wonder if he knows he is replying to the OP.


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Replying to SD. Seems as though others here have him pegged as being a jackwagon too. And by the way I could care less what he thinks, the guy's an incorrigible jerk and seems to be proud of it.

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Originally Posted by gunswizard
Replying to SD. Seems as though others here have him pegged as being a jackwagon too. And by the way I could care less what he thinks, the guy's an incorrigible jerk and seems to be proud of it.


You obviously do not get what happens when posts with horrible info go unchallenged. Readers get the idea the info must be good and act on it...

You do realize we have met face to face several times, no?


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And it's somehow your job to challenge other posters? Why can't you give others credit for having the intelligence to be able to winnow the wheat from the chaff themselves? Most gunsmiths realize that stock finishing has been a topic that there has never been agreement on since the caveman first refinished his club. Besides what does it matter if someone messes up refinishing his stock? No one will get hurt and a lesson learned by trial and error is one that is long remembered. Let it go and move on to more important topics, you have knowledge and experience and can make valuable contributions in the gunsmithing area if you'd do it in an unchallenging non-combative way. Don't make an adversarial challenge to gunsmithing methods in every post you read. Sorry, I don't recall meeting you.

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NVhntr said
"Great.
Make us a five minute video next time you do the task.
I'd really like to see it done."


Now see....that's an intelligent and respectful reply. This man understands a few things about conversation. A septic?
Sure.
Nothing wrong with that.
That how people learn.

So I will do exactly what he asks if I can arrange it. I have no video equipment but I know someone that does.

I will put out the word to a few of the stores I do work for that if anyone has a Browning they are going to refinish, I will strip it to a point that it's ready for sanding and I'll do it for free. I hope that gets a a response pretty soon.

I will then have him post the video in youtube and come back here and post a link to show interested parties and non-idiots how I do it, and how easy and fast it can be.

That was my intent in the first place.

For those fools that could not pass a 1st grade citizenship test, I don't care if they learn anything or not.

Besides, it's not possible for them to learn if they already know everything there is to know....right?

Last edited by szihn; 12/14/16.
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Originally Posted by gunswizard
And it's somehow your job to challenge other posters? Why can't you give others credit for having the intelligence to be able to winnow the wheat from the chaff themselves? Most gunsmiths realize that stock finishing has been a topic that there has never been agreement on since the caveman first refinished his club. Besides what does it matter if someone messes up refinishing his stock? No one will get hurt and a lesson learned by trial and error is one that is long remembered. Let it go and move on to more important topics, you have knowledge and experience and can make valuable contributions in the gunsmithing area if you'd do it in an unchallenging non-combative way. Don't make an adversarial challenge to gunsmithing methods in every post you read. Sorry, I don't recall meeting you.


It is any and everyone's job to challenge bad advice and prevent someone from screwing up their own work. Period! If they knew how to do something they would not likely be asking advice.

I seriously disagree with the notion that screwing up someone else's work is just a "lesson learned" and pretend the World is nothing but rainbows, unicorns, and cotton candy clouds.

I am surprised you do not remember me... we spoke several times... and Rick Bin was there.


Mark Begich, Joaquin Jackson, and Heller resistance... Three huge reasons to worry about the NRA.
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Originally Posted by szihn
NVhntr said
"Great.
Make us a five minute video next time you do the task.
I'd really like to see it done."


Now see....that's an intelligent and respectful reply. This man understands a few things about conversation. A septic?
Sure.
Nothing wrong with that.
That how people learn.

So I will do exactly what he asks if I can arrange it. I have no video equipment but I know someone that does.

I will put out the word to a few of the stores I do work for that if anyone has a Browning they are going to refinish, I will strip it to a point that it's ready for sanding and I'll do it for free. I hope that gets a a response pretty soon.

I will then have him post the video in youtube and come back here and post a link to show interested parties and non-idiots how I do it, and how easy and fast it can be.

That was my intent in the first place.

For those fools that could not pass a 1st grade citizenship test, I don't care if they learn anything or not.

Besides, it's not possible for them to learn if they already know everything there is to know....right?


A C-note says you cannot produce an unedited 30 minute video from start to sanding using a knife as a scraper.

Note, that is six times as much time as you claimed it takes you. And the only stipulation is the work be up to an acceptable "hunter grade" as defined by workmanship standards in most shops.


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Go back and read:

I can take a Browning or Weatherby down to wood and ready for sand paper in 5 minute with a good knife using it as a scraper.

Last edited by szihn; 12/15/16.
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Put the guy on ignore, he's not worth your time. Nothing more than a self rightious clod with a monstrous ego that feeds off the controversy he can generate with his serial posting. Never met him or Rick Bin, the guy's a prevaricator too.

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Originally Posted by szihn


Go back and read:

I can take a Browning or Weatherby down to wood and ready for sand paper in 5 minute with a good knife using it as a scraper.


And that is exactly what I said... note "to" sanding, not through sanding...

And I am giving you an extra 25 minute kicker over your claim.


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Originally Posted by szihn
Well now. I have been doing gunsmithing for 48 years and I have refinished more Brownings than I can count. They are not really any more difficult than any other epoxy finished stock.

I know a little bit about stock finishing and re-finishing.
Here are a few I have done.

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

All these were just slightly more complex than refinishing a factory Browning.
Funny how I never knew that I didn't know anything. Thanks for telling me.

I have found that sharing information with people that want to know is fun and welcome by them, but arguing with idiots and fools is not worth my time.

some very very nice work!!!

im just a tru oil guy myself

Sitka rode my ass on some of my post also

I think he is out of those flexible cathaters that don't feel like a bore brush inserting and extracting
so ya gotta forgive him if he seems he needs to protect his self declared position as finish master

probably hurts when he pees.......... laugh

Last edited by renegade50; 12/16/16.
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szihn,

Very nice indeed! I particularly like the top two photos - I'm a fan of not too much brass and a little carving. If you don't mind me asking, what did you use as a finish? We all have our favorites but I'm curious.


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The top 2 rifles are made from Sugar maple. The way I do the finish is as follows.

Sand and whisker as you would on any rifle. Take the finish down to 400 or 600 grit depending on the density of the wood.

Next I stain. ALWAYS use alcohol base stand, NEVER oil based.

When the stain is completely dry I use 0000 steel wool to even out the surface.

Now the "secret"

Take boiled linseed oil and paint thinner and make a solution of both 50%/50%. Put that on the stained wood until it dripping wet and keep it dripping wet for 30 minutes. As it soaks in, put on more. You want this to penetrate the wood deeply. It will soak in so keep it as wet as you can. After 30 minutes take paper towels and dry it off.

Now set it in the window for 4-6 days in sunlight. Do nothing but turn it every day.

After it's cured you inspect it closely. Any small imperfection in the surface will show up clearly. Take the same 50%/50% mix and wet sand (with wet-or-dry paper) the imperfections out. Because you use alcohol based stain you can match the color after the wet sanding. Go over the stock and make sure it's all as perfect as you can make ti. When you are done re-stain the whole stock.

Up until this point everything you have done is for color, surface finish and detail. NOW comes the real finish.

I use Formbys or Gilispies Low Gloss Tung Oil.

Put it on thinly and let it cure 2 days between coats. After 2 days do it again. Use 0000 Steel Wool if you need to blend any of the coats. Keep doing that every two days and only use the steel wool every other coat, and then only if you see a need.

You just keep finishing the wood until there is nothing left to even out or coat. The stock will tell you when it's done.

Sometimes it takes 5-6 coats and sometimes it take 10-12 coats. Depends on the stock. You'll know when it done because you will not be able to find anything else to do.

The reason for the linseed base is that if ever you need to touch up the finish you can sand down to wood and re-apply the stain and get a color match through linseed.
If you put Tung directly on the stained wood the finish looks great but you will hate life if you ever try to make a color match through it because once Tung is cured no stain will go through it and give a color match.

THAT'S the reason for the linseed base coat.


Last edited by szihn; 12/16/16.
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Wow! Just wow!


Mark Begich, Joaquin Jackson, and Heller resistance... Three huge reasons to worry about the NRA.
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Originally Posted by szihn
The top 2 rifles are made from Sugar maple. The way I do the finish is as follows.

Sand and whisker as you would on any rifle. Take the finish down to 400 or 600 grit depending on the density of the wood.

Next I stain. ALWAYS use alcohol base stand, NEVER oil based.

When the stain is completely dry I use 0000 steel wool to even out the surface.

Now the "secret"

Take boiled linseed oil and paint thinner and make a solution of both 50%/50%. Put that on the stained wood until it dripping wet and keep it dripping wet for 30 minutes. As it soaks in, put on more. You want this to penetrate the wood deeply. It will soak in so keep it as wet as you can. After 30 minutes take paper towels and dry it off.

Now set it in the window for 4-6 days in sunlight. Do nothing but turn it every day.

After it's cured you inspect it closely. Any small imperfection in the surface will show up clearly. Take the same 50%/50% mix and wet sand (with wet-or-dry paper) the imperfections out. Because you use alcohol based stain you can match the color after the wet sanding. Go over the stock and make sure it's all as perfect as you can make ti. When you are done re-stain the whole stock.

Up until this point everything you have done is for color, surface finish and detail. NOW comes the real finish.

I use Formbys or Gilispies Low Gloss Tung Oil.

Put it on thinly and let it cure 2 days between coats. After 2 days do it again. Use 0000 Steel Wool if you need to blend any of the coats. Keep doing that every two days and only use the steel wool every other coat, and then only if you see a need.

You just keep finishing the wood until there is nothing left to even out or coat. The stock will tell you when it's done.

Sometimes it takes 5-6 coats and sometimes it take 10-12 coats. Depends on the stock. You'll know when it done because you will not be able to find anything else to do.

The reason for the linseed base is that if ever you need to touch up the finish you can sand down to wood and re-apply the stain and get a color match through linseed.
If you put Tung directly on the stained wood the finish looks great but you will hate life if you ever try to make a color match through it because once Tung is cured no stain will go through it and give a color match.

THAT'S the reason for the linseed base coat.



I can appreciate anachronism in building replicas and old style ML rifles, so some of your finishing almost makes sense... but not much of it.

Does your finish look good? Probably, but that is mostly due to the incredibly forgiving oil finish.

Some time make a sample board with your thinned BLO on one side and unthinned on the other side. Cut it in two and take a look at it after letting it cure as fully as it will. As far as doing that to make the stain matchable... that is funny.

The two finishes you listed often have absolutely no tung oil in them. They are both good finishes in the glossy version, not good stock finish in the low luster version. They use silica in the finish to knock down the luster. That weakens the finish and dulls the appearance.

Make a sample board with the high gloss version and compare it to your finish. Getting the luster the way you like it is another step but you seem unconcerned about wasting time finishing, at least the rubbing out is something positive.

Steel wool went out as a suitable stock finishing aid a long time ago. Tiny particles of steel get stuck in the finish and can "bloom" with rust. Even if they do not rust they will impede luster.


I am not saying your finish does not look good, but it can easily be improved upon for both speed and appearance, guaranteed.

No comment on the scraping video?


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Oh wow....I am learning so much from you Sitka.

Please tell us all MORE!

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Enlighten us with your wisdom oh great oracle of all things gunsmithing, no one knows better than you. Thou nattering nabob of negativism.

Last edited by gunswizard; 12/16/16.
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Originally Posted by gunswizard
Enlighten us with your wisdom oh great oracle of all things gunsmithing, no one knows better than you. Thou nattering nabob of negativism.


Funny shiet coming from an idiot that had to stand on a street corner with a sign, looking for a job. I'm not surprised your church didn't even want to help your dumb ass.






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Another dumb phuque heard from who doesn't know what he's talking about, just stirring up chit as usual. FYI Mr. Knowitall my church DID help me, and tell us what's idiotic about doing everything possible to secure employment? Never mind just GFY and oh have a Merry Christmas too azzhole.

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Originally Posted by szihn
Oh wow....I am learning so much from you Sitka.

Please tell us all MORE!


Feel free to question any fact I posted. There are plenty there to choose from. Show me where anything I stated is wrong.

I am not laughing at your product from the standpoint of the quality of your work up to finishing, just after, when you start into the really dumb stuff...

I guarantee I can produce any number of finishes that will absolutely look better than yours with less effort and they will be easy to repair and tougher than your finish.


Mark Begich, Joaquin Jackson, and Heller resistance... Three huge reasons to worry about the NRA.
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