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That will be sweet looking when finished. Great OEM wood on many, but seems the fit is always a bit proud. I'd like a similar one in 22LR for ground squirrels.

Last edited by 1minute; 01/14/17.

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Originally Posted by 1minute
That will be sweet looking when finished. Great OEM wood on many, but seems the fit is always a bit proud. I'd like a similar one in 22LR for ground squirrels.


Me too. I'd really like to make a No. 1 into a .22... Maybe a No. 3. The actions are a tad larger than needed for a rimfire. I guess the only way to get a smaller action would be to buy a Hagn... can't afford one... maybe a low wall. Ideas ?????

My guns don't just sit in a gun cabinet. I shoot them. Rimfires are a lot more fun to shoot than .458's.

Last edited by Dick_Wright; 01/15/17.
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Originally Posted by APDDSN0864
Dick,

You, sir, are an artist. A very good artist. That is beautiful work and I thank you for sharing this with us.

I can't wait to see your load development results. grin

Ed


I have most all the reloading equipment required to load and shoot. I'll use IMR 4895 and Federal 205 or 205M's to start. After the cases are fired a couple of times I should be able to get around 25+ grains into them. (You can't get enough 4895 in a .222 case to get excessive pressure.) I'll seat the bullets into a hard jam to start. They will be moly coated.

Experience has taught me that the more 4895 I can use, the better a duece shoots. When I can settle on the amount of powder, I will experiment with seating depth. I will probably end up within .005" of the full jam. I will be shooting real benchrest bullets, probably Bart's, maybe Bergers. I ordered a barrel with a 14" twist especially for the 52 gr. BR bullets.

I will use only what I call a "Chamber die" for FL sizing... no expander button. I have 100 Lapua Match Cases to start. This gun has a SAAMI chamber so the only neck turning I will do will be to eliminate any run out in the case neck thickness. With the Lapua cases, very little is necessary, usually less than .0005".

After I get a few cases that have been fired three times, I am going to call Neil Jones and see if he will sell me one of his FL dies only... (No seater... I already have a good seater.) They are the best available if you want absolutely straight cases coming out of the die. I'm talking neck-to-body run out of .0002" or less.

FWIW, back when I was shooting a lot of competition and writing about it in Precision Shooting, a major bullet manufacturer offerred to sponsor me for a season... all their BR bullets I needed for a season, if I would use them and write about them. I tried them extensively and they would shoot no better than 3/8". I could do better than .150" average groups with Bart's. I respectfully declined.

Last edited by Dick_Wright; 01/14/17.
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Please keep going. I'm learning much from this thread and it is greatly appreciated .


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Originally Posted by OSU_Sig
Please keep going. I'm learning much from this thread and it is greatly appreciated .


When I get the gun back from Charlie and can shoot (Weather... it's Michigan.) I will report what I'm doing (complete with targets) and why if people are interested.

Forty years ago this year I went to my first benchrest match. At that time I figured I knew everything there was to know about reloading. By the end of the match I found that I knew nothing. Been learning ever since.


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I think most will enjoy the No.1 in a rimfire cartridge, whatever model No.1 they favor. Feels like a rifle and shoots well. All steel and wood, feels great in the hand.

I have built two rimfire No.1 conversions myself, a No.1B with a Shilen barrel and a No.1A with a sleeved(Redman) barrel. Both look like the factory centerfire, hard to tell until you open the breech.

Not a lot to the modification to rimfire, I prefer much the moving of the firing pin in the breechblock myself. Fully supported chamber with a extractor/ejector that is basically a factory centerfire type with its hook ground off and replaced with a longer blade type hook. This type of extractor hook is used in most rimfire rifles/pistols of today's offerings; so is nothing new. The 22lr and other rimfires; as one knows requires a fully supported chamber because of their case.

One can sleeve and plug a factory barrel or just purchase a #2 or #4 contour from Shilen that fits the respective forearms without mods to forearm. One of course, has to monitor the exact cut of the breech area to do such a fit; but is doable with ease.

No real need for the recoil pins in the quarter rib, one can just fill with the old studs, 4 screws is plenty in my opinion.

If one sleeves a factory barrel, the quarter rib rear will have to be shortened slightly as the factory barrel is set back a turn to close up the breechblock to barrel face centerfire dimension to the rimfire gapspace criteria.

When lowering the firing pin position to 6 oclock, I like it just inside the rim, remember to measure the exact distance you need on "your" action. One can use a slightly oversized stepped bushing for the firing pin support that has the capability of an offset hole if one misses the measurement slightly. Said bushing can be secured in a lot of ways.

The existing firing centefire pin can be reused shortened to rimfire protrusion specs.

I used a Bentz reamer in my two rifles which will allow most ammo to be used. I tried using a Freeland reamer, but was much too tight for some of my bulk ammo. One thing about custom, one can choose the reamer/ammo of the day to suit. Headspace can be set to a minimum dimension in conjunction of a minimum breechblock face to barrel face dimension.

My rifles in a five shot group at 25yds will allow the following four to touch the first, so was good enough for me, for now anyway.

I would like to get around to some ideas presented to me by folks using a shrouded barrel in conjunction with a multi firing pin to see the accuracy that they are getting in benchrest matches; just no time to do so yet.

I hear about the No.1 action being too big for rimfire, but all in the eye of the beholder I guess; I like a full sized rifle, easy to hold and all of that stuff. Light is nice, but has its issues as does the other end of the stick.

I hope you all will continue to think about the building of a no.1 in rimfire, perhaps even a switch barrel affair. I have found that these conversions are my favorite to take out anymore. I just cannot think of a more pleasureable rifle.

A rimfire no.1 is a real hoot. Nothing to build really, any gunsmith that understands basic rimfire breeching can execute one for you if you do not do your own work. Just go do it.


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wow. For those of us who are not ever going to be accused of being a gunsmith, this is really cool and I, for one, greatly appreciate it.


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Redz06,

I'm working on getting a gun to start the .22 project. I just heard that an old friend who has some No. 1's and No.3's for sale. I need a gun before I can get going. I don't do my own work but there is a ACGG guy here in Michigan who is really good at this conversion.

On .22 LR accuracy... You need to buy the really expensive stuff or you will get flyers. Trust me... I shot rimfire benchrest for several years. I have spent a lot of time testing rimfire ammo amd it's either $20.00 a box or a few shots leak out of your groups.

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[Linked Image]

The gun will be on it's way to Colorado shortly. I took this pic of the whole gun complete with scope just as a reminder.

Not artfully posed but I have a problem getting the entire gun in a pic. Guns aren't shaped like cameras are formated.

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Dick,

I shot benchrest myself in the central region mainly in the 90's. Learned more in those years than the rest of my life in rifles. Twas a tough crowd, but none so forthright in giving knowledge/expertise......absolutely freely; no strings of any kind. Once you shoot a benchrest rifle, things are different sorta speak, which I am sure you experienced as well.

I really did not think of building a No.1 for benchrest/or other accuracy competitions, lots of things going against it, but can see how that would be the fun part; now that we have done most everything conventional. I hear some guys in the NW doing pretty good in rimfire matches with a specialized No.1, multi pins, shrouded short barrels, etc. I too enjoy the fun stuff, but have to admit, lots of things against the no.1 for real competition............do I really care, not much.....fun/knowledge/technique are the real drivers anymore. Lots of different aspects of fine rifles, takes time to enjoy them all.

I hear you about ammo in rimfire accuracy, but the more everyday aspects of rifles are kinda fun too. Guess tis why the service teams buy the multi pallets of 22lr to test in their Mann's.

I suspect that if your boy is in the ACGG, he probably knows how. I hope that you will hold to a supported chamber approach; all in all, not a lot to the conversion; most gunsmiths can do it if worth their salt.

I enjoy accurate rifles just like everyone else, but at my age and tenor; just is not everything for me anymore. Gotta have something different or something that some said I could not do on my own. I asked around for years on how to do a No.1 rimfire or who would do one for me...........zero response or worse.....so traded a rifle for an old lathe, and the rimfire project began.........slowly..........learning the lathe on your own without help is not overly easy, but now am comfortable in doing most things that way.

I hope you will find time for the rimfire conversion on a no.1, I think that you will be come fascinated with it.

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I started shooting competitively in 1961, just out of school. I competed seriously in BR starting in 1977. I'll be 80 by the time I get to shoot this next April. When I test fired this I was very surprised at the groups... averaged 3/8" at 100 yds. with no load work-up at all. The Kepplinger trigger helps hugely. My first two bench guns were .222's so I do have some experience making them shoot.

The test firing was done in the pattern stocks. The new fore end is bedded very tightly. I'm hoping it shoots as well as it did in the patterns. If it doesn't I will modify it till it does, even if it requires making another fore end.

I've shot competitively most of my life and will do so till I am no longer able. I just like going to matches and everything that goes with it. I will be elated if I can be sort of competitive with this gun. At this stage of life it's not all about winning... I've done that.

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[Linked Image]

Probably the last pic before it goes to Colorado. This will be it's natural habitat when I get it back.

I'm probably going to have to turn the front rest around to make it easy to load whilst shooting... the rear leg is in the way of the lever. That shouldn't pose a problem.

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I am about to dip my toes in refinishing a stock. You listed what you used earlier in the thread. Could you go into more detail on the steps please?

Thank you.
Micky


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The rear bag in the above pic is the first Gator Head bag Jack Snyder of Edgewood Bags ever made. He made it to my drawing and, has since, included it in his line of products. It fill iit with 30 lbs. of heavy sand. As an old benchrest shooter, I firmly believe in heavy rests.

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Originally Posted by micky
I am about to dip my toes in refinishing a stock. You listed what you used earlier in the thread. Could you go into more detail on the steps please?

Thank you.
Micky


Micky,

I haven't refinished a stock since the 70's. You have to take it down to bare wood. Use wet-and-dry silicon carbide sand paper, the black stuff. I start with 80 grit and end up with 400. Use sanding blocks... many different shapes of sanding blocks so you don't round off sharp edges. Then use as many coats of the McWillaims Alkanet Refinishing Oil as you need to get the desired gloss.

That's the way I would do it now. Be very careful and good luck.

Dick

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Originally Posted by redz06
Dick,

I shot benchrest myself in the central region mainly in the 90's. Learned more in those years than the rest of my life in rifles. Twas a tough crowd, but none so forthright in giving knowledge/expertise......absolutely freely; no strings of any kind. Once you shoot a benchrest rifle, things are different sorta speak, which I am sure you experienced as well.

I really did not think of building a No.1 for benchrest/or other accuracy competitions, lots of things going against it, but can see how that would be the fun part; now that we have done most everything conventional. I hear some guys in the NW doing pretty good in rimfire matches with a specialized No.1, multi pins, shrouded short barrels, etc. I too enjoy the fun stuff, but have to admit, lots of things against the no.1 for real competition............do I really care, not much.....fun/knowledge/technique are the real drivers anymore. Lots of different aspects of fine rifles, takes time to enjoy them all.

I hear you about ammo in rimfire accuracy, but the more everyday aspects of rifles are kinda fun too. Guess tis why the service teams buy the multi pallets of 22lr to test in their Mann's.

I suspect that if your boy is in the ACGG, he probably knows how. I hope that you will hold to a supported chamber approach; all in all, not a lot to the conversion; most gunsmiths can do it if worth their salt.

I enjoy accurate rifles just like everyone else, but at my age and tenor; just is not everything for me anymore. Gotta have something different or something that some said I could not do on my own. I asked around for years on how to do a No.1 rimfire or who would do one for me...........zero response or worse.....so traded a rifle for an old lathe, and the rimfire project began.........slowly..........learning the lathe on your own without help is not overly easy, but now am comfortable in doing most things that way.

I hope you will find time for the rimfire conversion on a no.1, I think that you will be come fascinated with it.


You and I are on the same page re: benchrest in the 90's. I would never have thought of a No. 1 as a BR rifle till it shot so well in test firing with the pattern stocks. The Kepplinger trigger is a huge asset. Fought No. 1 triggers for too many years.

The Michigan ACGG guy is Steve Durren. I've been told he's the best No. 1 in the country. We'll be visiting him this winter. He's a competition shooter who uses an elegant high wall that he made in black powder competition. I have one pic of his high wall... lovely.

I have a line on two No. 1's, one that I will probably get and another that I really should. I have in mind a petite .22 squirrel rifle for carrying in the woods... seven lbs. prox with scope. I have the time to do it but getting the funds into my slush fund will slow things down. The metal work will be expensive. I will use my pattern for the butt stock (I really like the lines.) and a much smaller fore end.

Starting a project is fun... especially for an old guy.

Last edited by Dick_Wright; 01/20/17.
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[Linked Image]

This is Steven Durren's high wall that he uses in black powder competition. These are the best lines I've ever seen on a high wall... very hard to do. I've tried to do a couple of them and was spectacularily unsuccessfull.

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[Linked Image]

The simple sketch I sent Charle re: the checkering pattern.

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Charlie called... the gun is now safely in Colorado and in his hands. I should get it back in a couple of months or less. By then there should be a few days warm enough to shoot it. Making this thing is just stage one of my job... Next I have to make it shoot well enough so I'm not too embarrassed at matches next summer.

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[Linked Image]

I shot this just before I packed everything up and sent it to Colorado, including the sketch. showing Charley what I wanted re: checkering pattern.

Charley called a few days ago... the gun arrived safely and he will proceed forthwith.

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