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Originally Posted by joken2

For extra under floor support in a crawl space, what I probably would look into first is one or maybe two simple adjustable screw floor jacks in the appropriate length for the height of the crawl space. They are relatively inexpensive, available in assorted adjustment heights, and can be found at just about any home supply store such as Lowe's, Home Depot, etc.

Installed they would look something like this except with just one or two jacks:

[Linked Image]

^^^^^
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Originally Posted by NVhntr
462 is the weight of the empty safe if I am reading this right. Filled it would weigh considerably more.
More than a full refrigerator?

If the safe is going near an exterior wall or a bearing beam under the floor you will be ok. If it ends up mid-span in an area where the floor joists are barely meeting code... not ok.

Look at your floor framing under where you will be putting the safe and see what you have. It wouldn't be that big of a deal to shore that area if required.


260 lbs more filled

Put it near the sill/foundation and it will sit there forever


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Originally Posted by tndrbstr
Originally Posted by joken2

For extra under floor support in a crawl space, what I probably would look into first is one or maybe two simple adjustable screw floor jacks in the appropriate length for the height of the crawl space. They are relatively inexpensive, available in assorted adjustment heights, and can be found at just about any home supply store such as Lowe's, Home Depot, etc.

Installed they would look something like this except with just one or two jacks:

[Linked Image]

^^^^^
huh well ya,... if you want to do it right the first time!... <G>


Don't think you'll need it, but this is quick, easy, and cheap.

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Originally Posted by Lawdwaz
Originally Posted by 222Rem
My safe is on an outside wall, but I had to roll it across the middle of the house to get there. It's 1800lbs empty, and at least a ton full.


1800 pounds empty, how big a safe IS that?


The largest model that Fort Knox made 15yrs ago............like the Yeager model but w/o the autographed biography.

I'd buy second safe, but it'd have to park next to the first one. That'd start to become real weight.


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Originally Posted by bigfish9684
[Linked Image][/url]

More info about crawl space needed. Assuming this is attic crawl space? Any why locate in crawl space? Limited square footage?

Agree 462lbs isn't much.

You seem confused.


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Originally Posted by bigfish9684
[Linked Image][/url]

More info about crawl space needed. Assuming this is attic crawl space? Any why locate in crawl space? Limited square footage?

Agree 462lbs isn't much.


What?


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Originally Posted by 4winds
If the crawlspace is a dirt floor, make sure you have a vapor barrier down to keep the safe from moisture damage.


Only here can a guy ask about a safe sitting in a room and get advice on a vapor barrier. Damn, we have a difficult time staying on task.

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Originally Posted by WeimsnKs
Originally Posted by 4winds
If the crawlspace is a dirt floor, make sure you have a vapor barrier down to keep the safe from moisture damage.


Only here can a guy ask about a safe sitting in a room and get advice on a vapor barrier. Damn, we have a difficult time staying on task.
Want to get going on how a vapor barrier helps prevent radon from getting in the house? Does radon corrode guns? grin


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Assuming the crawl space is unheated, it would not be my first choice for locating a gun safe. I'd be concerned that there would be a significant risk of condensation and corrosion.

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I could be wrong, but its not going in the crawl space but above it, question is floor strong enough for weight since its not slab on grade....


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Exactly, just like my house. It doesn't sit on a slab.


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Originally Posted by rost495
I could be wrong, but its not going in the crawl space but above it, question is floor strong enough for weight since its not slab on grade....


I may be missing something, but he clearly says he is putting the safe IN the crawlspace, which seems might strange to me, maybe I'm wrong.


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That is what it said but it gets clarified later.


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Metal adjustable jacks on cement pads over a poly vapor barrier are ideal. Leave a little space between the plastic and the block or brick curtainwall to minimize condensation under the poly. Do not introduce any new wood under your house. Wood jacks would be an open invitation to termites. Check the crawlspace annually,those little buggers will climb up anything to get to your floorboards. Look for mud tunnels.

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