Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Gunsmithing "Pressure Point" for Rem 700

GG- the shift in POI is normal. It will adjust out on the scope.... . If you are happy with the group, use the cards that gave it to you. Just put your epoxy pressure point back an inch from the tip, and use the cards at the tip as your control. Worked on my 700. I cut a shallow groove back there as an anchor point and used a dab of J & B Weld.

Nighthawk- I'd read this was the way to go, and did exactly that - 5 lbs. of cranberry Juice hanging from the swivel stud, after full length bed and free-float did not work. It reduced the group from 2.5 to 1.6 or so, and I knew from previous shimming that it could get better. So I just wasted that much effort. Better to pre-find a shim point and bed to that proven shim point than going in blind. IMO.

las,

Serious target shooters used to use devices that would allow them to change pressure on the barrel by turning screws in the fore-end. I've only seen them in books. So I suppose it could make a difference if you're trying to eke out the best accuracy. But then we have better barrels - well, better everything - so I suspect we don't have all the gremlins they were trying to tame.

In my case it was tweaking accuracy for friends rifles and they were happy with sub-MOA so we stopped there. Interestingly we started with epoxy bedding and free-floating. Accuracy was about 1.5 MOA. Restored the pressure point and got 3/4 or so MOA. In all the Rem. 700 rifles I tinkered with, which was just a very few.

There's a Gordian Knot of vibrations going on in a barrel. And there are shot-to-shot variations, such is Nature. FWIW my theory is that a pressure point damps the vibrations and proportionally the variations. At least some of this could be helped by load development but it's a can of worms or we'd all be putting bullets through the same hole. (And if I really knew I'd be a famous competition rifle builder. )

I added a pressure point with 10 lb hanging from the front stud, and tightened both action bolts to 40 in-lbs. I used 10 lb because the stock has an aluminum frame skelleton (b&c medalist) and thought it would need that much. Took it to the range today. Shot terrible. First shot was high and then the next 3 each came down and inch each. Odd.

Think I have too much pressure. I'll re-do the pressure point with 5 lbs and see how that works.

Few notions guaranteed to waste more time, money, powder, and bullets than a pressure-point cluster-[bleep].

You may be right. In a few months and $150 from now I'll know!

Hey- you are talking about my 700 there, ART!!! .

I likely should have just left it at its 2+ MOA and gone on killing chit with it as i have since '75.

Do I really need to repeat the point???

Maybe I missed it but how did the gun shoot in the original stock?

No, but that's never stopped you before.
I doubt it will this time either.

You did'nt miss it.

Have to admit that I have had this rifle since I was 14 years old. I never paid any attention to how it shot as long as it hit the deer. Which is did most of the time since all my hunting was in pretty close. Maybe 20 years ago the stock cracked when I really messed up my first bedding job. I stuck the barreled action into a freebie tupperware stock, in which it never did better than 2" at 100 yards.

Not really. I'm have a great time playing with it and will likely keep on doing just that. I do appreciate all the advice and conversation.

The destination is nice, but the journey is a blast!

Good luck, GG. I've been down your path and it's challenging but edjumacayshunal. Aluminum shims, mouse pads, silicone, duct tape, inner tubes...it was fascinatingly frustrating.

I'll throw a flyer out there and "bet" that you'll probably end up with the action bedded, floated barrel, and will work up a specific load that barrel really likes.

Don't forget the cut up credit cards.

Yep. You guys are probably right. But I never did try silicone.

I've now ground the pressure point back off to flush with the rest of the channel. So, once again totally free floated barrel with bedded action.

I'm loading up some "pet load" recommendations as follows and will try them 1st chance I get:
- 165 gr Siera Game Kings
- 56 and 57 gr of IMR-4350
- Whatever primer I have in the cabinet.
- Will vary the COL from .020, .035, and .050 off max for that chamber.
- I'll check em for concentricty with my spiff new Hornday Lock-n-Load Concentricit Checker (Happy B-day to me and thank you Mrs. Geezer!)
- Shoot em off of my new Caldwell Rock whaterver rest (Happy B-day to me and thank you Mrs. Geezer!)

Planning to load 5 of each length and powder weight combo. We'll see how it goes.

What you mor than likely have done Is dampin barrel harmonics some with the shim.....I have never seen a presure end barrel out shoot a floated one.....it just doesn't happen unless it's a 22 rf......bedding first....scope rings second...lots of 700 need a rear shim under the base....

Under the scope base?

Yes ..if it needs it that is...lots of 700 rem need a rear shim...that's why brownells sells a whole kit of dif thicknesses...
It's kinda Tricky to get the right shim.....I do it with a 1 piece typ base and feeler gauge...tighten the front screws ,out of the stock...and use a lapping.bar....keep in mind, if you shim it and bolt it to an action without proper bedding you introduce stress back to the scope....they need to both be stress free...I actually prefer bending the rear scope base..

In '74, the height of the rear receiver bridge was raised by .017" and the receiver side rails were raised by .050 to allow for the anti-bind feature

Judging from my 700......+. . I probably should have sold the bitch 30 years and a couple dozen head of game ago.

Like GG said- it's a blast. Not like it is favorite hunting rifle- I have Rugers, and a Mauser 98 for that! OK- I'll throw in the 725...

Minute of moose is no miracle of either accuracy or making meat...