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#11981518 04/18/17
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What do you guys think is the best glue to use on a stock crack? I have heard super type glue or epoxy or wood glue. What do you find to be the best.........

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Epoxy, hands down. Higher bonding strength than yellow glue, and more reliable over the long haul than CN (super) glues.


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I like Acraglass.

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Originally Posted by Deflagrate
I like Acraglass.


Which is nothing more nor less than epoxy.


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Wax the finished areas around the crack to make cleanup easier. Then warm the stock. You want it as hot as reasonably possible and as deep a heat soak as you can get. If there is access to the crack from inside (not on the finished surface) drill some tiny holes along the crack.

Apply slow-curing epoxy, well-mixed, all along the Crack.

Wrap with saran wrap over the glue and the whole stock. Try for air-tight.

As the stock cools it will suck the epoxy right into the crack.


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Thanks for that Art. Have an old barometer oak back that is cracked and was wondering how to get the epoxy in there...

Do you sand the excess off?


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Originally Posted by tomk
Thanks for that Art. Have an old barometer oak back that is cracked and was wondering how to get the epoxy in there...

Do you sand the excess off?

The wax on the surface will let you pop the cured epoxy off in flakes as long as the surface is fairly smooth. Virtually no sandpaper needed.

Red Oaks work better than whites, but either will suck the glue into a crack.


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Thanks Art--appreciated.

It's 19th century English...so not sure--just dry oak...:)


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Cant thank you guys enough Im going to use epoxy and heat.......with wax.

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Just be careful not to get any wax down in the crack.


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Yup, waxed crack can be a bad thing... or a good thing... depending...


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Originally Posted by Sitka deer
Yup, waxed crack can be a bad thing... or a good thing... depending...


Can't argue with that logic. But back on topic I recently went to a boat shop to get some epoxy that was recommended to me on this forum for fixing cracked stocks. Its called West Systems 100, I think. Anyway the shop told be they'd be happy to sell me a barrel of the stuff because they didn't deal in small quantities. They did tell me something about epoxies and glues that I didn't know. Glues like to be clamped tight and epoxies don't. In other words, epoxies work best when you have a gap to fill in your crack. And on that note I'll turn this thread back over to the line of humor that got me to write this response.


Last edited by S99VG; 04/19/17.

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Which is why if I have access to the back of a crack I open up the back of the crack with the dreaded Dremel before applying epoxy. I use the smallest burr, don't need much width. Depth at your discretion - careful.


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Originally Posted by S99VG
Originally Posted by Sitka deer
Yup, waxed crack can be a bad thing... or a good thing... depending...


Can't argue with that logic. But back on topic I recently went to a boat shop to get some epoxy that was recommended to me on this forum for fixing cracked stocks. Its called West Systems 100, I think. Anyway the shop told be they'd be happy to sell me a barrel of the stuff because they didn't deal in small quantities. They did tell me something about epoxies and glues that I didn't know. Glues like to be clamped tight and epoxies don't. In other words, epoxies work best when you have a gap to fill in your crack. And on that note I'll turn this thread back over to the line of humor that got me to write this response.



That's one boat shop I wouldn't take my boat to. (Speaking as someone who spent 20 years as a yacht carpenter.) I can't tell you how many drums of West System we went through, or how many tightly clamped joints I assembled with it.

You can get West System Repair Kits for a few bucks with enough resin, hardener, and coloidal silica in it to do a dozen gun stock cracks.


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Been using West System for close to 25 years now on varying projects and always buy it in relatively small quantities. Look it up on the web and buy it in any quantity you want. I usually buy the smallest cans that will take a metering pump. Makes life a lot easier.

Bob


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gnoahhh,

A lot of places say clamp not too tightly, bet you can find that on West's site. Epoxy excels at gap filling where, say, resorcinol does not tolerate gaps at all. So with epoxy there's no down side to light clamping. Potential down side to heavy clamping is a starved joint.

Now not arguing with success, if you get a fully wetted joint clamp away. The big airframe mechanic's book the FAA put out recommends light clamping with epoxy so that's what I do.



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BTW, if you check the data sheets for the better brands of hardware store epoxy like Devcon they're stronger than the wood. Have had disappointing results with the fast set stuff though it's better than it used to be. Can't go wrong with West though.


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Originally Posted by gnoahhh
Originally Posted by Deflagrate
I like Acraglass.


Which is nothing more nor less than epoxy.


Duh

No Shirt Sherlock! Dribble back down the sewer line.

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Thanks nighthawk Ill be sure to use regular epoxy not fast set.

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Originally Posted by Deflagrate
Originally Posted by gnoahhh
Originally Posted by Deflagrate
I like Acraglass.


Which is nothing more nor less than epoxy.


Duh

No Shirt Sherlock! Dribble back down the sewer line.


Comment not intended for veteran smartasses, rather for those who are strangers to the world of epoxy and who think Brownell's is the answer for everything related to gun repair.


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