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True, flaring the case mouths is important, same as any other cast bullet loading. It's best to think of this like loading normal cast bullets, but without the hassle and mess of bullet lube or the concerns about leading and perfect bullet sizing.

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It is so much faster to use a case tumbler to powder coat with, just dump 200-300 9mm's or 357's in a spare tumbler, throw in a couple table spoons full of your chosen powder & tumble them with the lid on for 20 minutes & then dump them into a collander & give it a few hard shakes to knock off any extra powder onto some old newspaper, etc & they are ready to go into the oven. I use a lot of Harbor Freight Red & have had no problems with it at all & I've probably done 20-25 thousand bullets in the last 2 1/2 yrs. I also use other colors but there's nothing wrong with HF Red.
After removing from the oven & cooling it's best to size right away, makes it much easier to size them. If you are having a tough time running them through your sizer (I use a Star & an RCBS) then just spray them with some Hornady One Shot Case Lube, let it dry for 2-3 minutes & they will pop right through. I've never had to paint twice.

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Originally Posted by Idaho1945
It is so much faster to use a case tumbler to powder coat with, just dump 200-300 9mm's or 357's in a spare tumbler, throw in a couple table spoons full of your chosen powder & tumble them with the lid on for 20 minutes & then dump them into a collander & give it a few hard shakes to knock off any extra powder onto some old newspaper, etc & they are ready to go into the oven.
Dick


Umm, no, it really isn't. I can only assume you didn't bother reading the thread? How is 20 minutes in a tumbler faster than 15 seconds of shaking by hand? That doesn't make any sense.

Last edited by Yondering; 07/26/17.
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I've done the cool whip container method & you can't get very many bullets in there at one time but if you're happy doing it no problem. Actually if I'm doing small bullets like 9mm's or 357's I can do a lot more than 300 at a time, plus I get a much better coating. That's why HF paint does work & I've never had to paint twice. Again, if you're happy with the swirl method use it but a big tumbler works so much easier & the time could easily be cut in half, I'm just baking or sizing while they are tumbling, going longer doesn't hurt. No air soft pellets are needed either & there's no powder dust coming out around the lid. Also I double stack them on the foil, no problem, them come apart pretty easy if you rattle them a bit after cooling.

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I often do up to ~500 9mm bullets at a time in a quart yogurt tub, and pile them up on the baking tray as deep as they need to go.
It takes 15 seconds of shaking; putting them in a tumbler is not easier or faster, it's just a way to the cheap junk HF powder to stick. Adding air soft pellets is dumb too; I don't recommend anyone do that. If you haven't tried a good high quality powder, you don't know what you're missing here; it does make a difference.

Also, it's powder, not paint.

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If you are getting it to stick in 15 seconds that's pretty amazing! The HF isn't junk, I've used a lot of it, tumbled a bunch of bullets tonight for 8 minutes just to see how they would do, no problem. The reason I usually do them 20 minutes is I'm doing something else like sizing, loading, etc. No need to just stand there.I'm on my third bottle of HF Red & it has done very well, I'd show some photo's of groups but dang Photobucket divorced all of us. You can go on Single Actions Forum & see a target I shot 2 days ago with my Ruger 357 Maximum at 50 yds & make up your own mind whether it's junk or not. I've also shot quite a bit of Smoke's Black & it's a better quality "powder" paint, you make the call. Doesn't shoot one bit better or look any better. Show me the difference in the paint in your groups & I'll buy in. Oops, powder!

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Originally Posted by Idaho1945
If you are getting it to stick in 15 seconds that's pretty amazing!


Amazing, or just the difference in using a good powder, and following the process described above. Argue all you want, but the process I described does work well, and doesn't require any tumbling, BBs, sifting, or whatever else people choose to add. The big difference is in using good powder.

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Not trying to start an argument, just saying there's more than one way to get there & HF Red will certainly do it. Also saying that coating 500 bullets in 15 seconds is pretty amazing & I'd guess that you would have to be very careful with those bullets while placing in the oven because the powder can't have much of a bond in 15 seconds. Again, doing them in the tumbler allows me to do other things while they are tumbling & the powder is pretty impacted into the bullets when they come out & you get a very nice, even coat after baking.
Three years ago in Arizona when I first started I did the shake & bake as you describe except that I used air soft pellets after about 6 months which did help. But I always had to shake for at least a minute (HF RED) but the results were great & we were shooting 2 USPSA matches a week with great (and clean) results.The better powders save time but don't produce any better results, none, at least not on target. I'm going to have to test your 15 second method, it seems a little out there for 500 bullets, but congratulations if it's working!

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Originally Posted by Idaho1945
Also saying that coating 500 bullets in 15 seconds is pretty amazing & I'd guess that you would have to be very careful with those bullets while placing in the oven because the powder can't have much of a bond in 15 seconds.
Dick


You're trying to say a lot without actually knowing; it's brilliant of you calling bs when the pictures above showed it pretty clearly. It's a static charge that holds the powder in place, just like spray powder coating. It doesn't matter how many bullets you fit in a container, as long as there's enough to generate static, and you shake it enough. If it doesn't work for you, it's because you changed something in the coating process; I've laid it out clearly enough that anyone can follow it if you pay attention.

Next time consider trying what the other person has described before calling bs and saying your way is better. Also, pay attention to the details, they are important. You're obviously missing several of them at least, like where I said the better powder makes a difference in the coating process, not on target.


Last edited by Yondering; 07/28/17.
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And like I said, not trying to start a spitting match here but you saying HF Red in junnk is pure BS, it's not the powder, its your technique that's the problem. When you cook a steak it only takes a few minutes, when you do a brisket it takes a few hours, doesn't mean you have to stand there & watch it on the smoker, do something else while it's smoking! I have powder coated bullets in probaly 30-35 states & I've never had a complaint, guys have taken everything from African game to moose, elk, bears, hogs & small game, never a complaint with HF Red, saying it's no good, show me some proof. I've probably taken a dozen animals myself including deer, elk & bear & my Dentist used my custom 480 to take his bull moose. I'd say it works pretty good, I can do several hundred pretty fast, I get great coverage & no spots, no second coats, etc.
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Quote
When you cook a steak it only takes a few minutes, when you do a brisket it takes a few hours, doesn't mean you have to stand there & watch it on the smoker, do something else while it's smoking!


Like load some 45s.

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Here's a 50 yd group I shot a few days ago with my 10 1/2" Ruger 357 Maximum using some cheap Harbor Freight Red powder we've been discussing (or cussing) depending on your experience or lack of. It works great if you know how to apply it, which is very simple. I've taken quite a bit of big game & lots of small game using the same paint & even though I do use some of the more expensive paints I'd like to see the person that could shoot the difference. 5 shots in .835" & 4 in 1/2"
https://imgur.com/6zjTTbh

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Last edited by Idaho1945; 07/31/17.
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Originally Posted by Idaho1945
Here's a 50 yd group I shot a few days ago with my 10 1/2" Ruger 357 Maximum using some cheap Harbor Freight Red powder we've been discussing (or cussing) depending on your experience or lack of.


OK, Dick, your insinuations on my lack of experience are getting old. Not only have I been powder coating bullets longer than you, I invented the dry shake and bake process back when everybody else was using solvents, and first documented it in 2012. I started this thread to help others in the community get started coating their own bullets; when some fool like yourself comes along to talk about how experienced they are and show how little they really know, it makes me wonder why bother sharing the info to start with.

You're showing yourself as a fool in a couple ways:
- You haven't tried the powders I recommended so you really don't know what's better.
- You keep blabbing about the results on target, when I've said several times the difference is in how easily the powder coats, not how the bullets shoot.

To my "lack of experience" - I have HF red and black. Neither one coats nearly as well as quality powders, or has any advantage to using them except to be cheap. They are not as good, so I don't recommend them. When a pound of powder will coat many thousand bullets, it doesn't matter if it costs $5 or $15. I really don't care if HF powder works for your process or not; that wasn't what you first came here to argue about anyway.
I've tried the tumbler method you use, as well as a bunch of other variations we haven't discussed here, and stick by what I listed in the OP as the easiest and fastest way to coat bullets.

Last edited by Yondering; 08/01/17.
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Geez, take a pill & relax! I said I was amazed you could paint that many bullets that fast, said it twice, now I've said it three times, get over it! No need to start name calling "fool" really. I am using Smoke's Black & said that, doesn't give me any better or worse results than HF Red, I also said that, just giving a different approach to powder coating with the tumbler. Isn't the results (target) any proof to you that it works, you said it was garbage which means your method didn't work with it, end of story. If you don't want to use a tumbler is it OK with YOU that other people do it. Good Lord man, grab your pacifier & take a nap. We'll give you the credit for the dry shake & bake, where do we send your trophy!

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Dick, it's clear from your posts you came in this thread to argue; you got what you were looking for. I don't care how you coat your bullets, that was never the argument.

If you have useful information to contribute, please do, but refrain from claiming your ideas are better than something else you haven't tried, or the passive aggressive underhanded comments about other people's experience while bragging about your own.

If your purpose in coming here was to puff up your chest, as it appears, please just go somewhere else.

I think I'm done with this one until anyone has more discussion about powder coating bullets.

Last edited by Yondering; 08/03/17.
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I had useful information & gave it, you were the one that said HF Red was garbage or a waste of time, whatever. I just gave an alternative. When I read a couple of times that you had to re-coat, at least at first I thought I "might" be of some help, that seemed to ruffle your feathers. Your fast method seems to work really good & I'm going to try it but for those wanting to try HF Red, they will have great success doing it in a tumbler. And I'm not going anywhere, been a member for quite a while.

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Powder Coating: [bleep] you, you're doing it wrong! (grins)

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FWIW

I can't get HF paint up here

I CAN get Peavey Mart, our near equivalent CHICOM importer.

I have used some of that paint to make ugly splotchy bullets in a shake and bake manner, and they were covered.

I don't have a tumbler, but if I did, I would try it as well.


I am in the process of trying to get PBTP to ship to me.... crazy shipping rates, but I'm trying to order enough to spread the pain out.

We shall see!

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For what it's worth:

Look, I was a PC newbie and found Yondering's thread over a year ago. I was just about ready to buy a whole lot of equipment in order to spray PC. This shake and bake method seemed easy, and I gave it a try. In fact, you can see where I asked some questions early on.

I don't know what is the "best" method. I'm not even sure there is a "best" method for putting paint on bullets. All I know is Yondering was nice enough to document his method. It worked for him. It sure worked for me, and having his thread here saved me a whole lot of trouble. I've now casted and coated a couple thousand rounds using Shake and Bake. I've also turned two friends onto it, after giving them a demonstration over the winter.

The good thing about Yondering's Shake and Bake method is it produces excellent, repeatable results without anything more than an empty plastic tub with a cover. As it is, it is a fantastic simple solution to an otherwise complicated problem. I've shown it to a PHD in Chemistry who's adopted it for his 458 SOCOM project. He's fairly convinced the reason the green paint works over the others is due to some relationship between the titanium in the paint and the lead in the bullet. He's currently trying to analyze it to better understand what Yondering has stumbled into. Who knows? Maybe he'll be able to come up with a more generalized understanding of why the green paint works where other's don't. We'll see.

Until it this chemistry wonk gets back with the answers, I'm perfectly happy to cast green bullets.

BTW: Until I turned him onto Yondering's thread, he'd been using Harbor Freight powder and having a really bad time of it. There's now three of us using Shake and Bake and loving it.


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You might want to search for <a href="https://www.reliantfinishingsystems.com/">Reliant Finishing Systems</a> as well. They also offer a lot of good options.

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