Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Bowhunting Thoughts on this arrow set up?

Looking at a 330 Bloodline at 27" (nock valley to carbon) with 3 blazers and 75 grain HP brass insert and 75 grain ABC super sonic broadhead. My DL is 29" and DW will be around 69-71lbs.

Intending on using this set up for Coues and Brocket deer.

Thoughts on the 75/75 set up or would switching it out and going 50 brass insert with 100 broadhead and achieving the same weight forward be more beneficial?

My thoughts are that the 75/75 set up is with a smaller surface area broadhead and therefore would probably increase some accuracy at longer ranges and maybe even perform a little better with stronger crosswinds.

It's really going to depend on how well you have the bow tuned. I'm not an expert on tuning, just a tinker. Broadhead flight tends to magnify any issues with an out-of-tune problem. The ABC Super Sonics only come in 85 grain, you're shooting the regular Sonic head at 75 grain. The minimal difference in surface area between the two shouldn't make a huge difference if your bow is tuned.

Your arrow spine reads OK for the draw and weight, but the 27 inch arrow sounds like you are bringing the broadhead back onto the riser shelf of the bow? Fall-away rest mounted behind the riser, like a QAD?

What range are you setting as your max range?

Having tried to do what you are dong with both a crossbow and a vertical, I have to ask why not just do the easy thing and shoot an expandable?

To my satisfaction I proved that barely discernible differences in balance and on a spinner can easily translate to unacceptable variance in impact at only twenty yards. 4-6 inch variance was not at all hard to achieve with tiny imbalances or off center so small it was very hard to see. I didn't try a whole lot of different heads, but all of the expandables shot right with their "dummy" head. The best fixed blade head was the NAP Thunderhead as far as accuracy went. I did shoot a nice doe with the Thunderhead later that year and I hit the off side shoulder joint (tib/fib and humerus joint). It center punched the joint and severed it cleanly into three pretty equal sections. The arrow exited about 4 inches I suppose. The blades were slightly wavy but basically undamaged. The rest of the head showed no ill effects.

29 inch draw at 70 lbs is plenty to drive a 100 gran expandable through Bambi. Even with the large 4 blade heads. I firmly believe in two holes and prefer those holes as large as I can get them. After finding that fixed heads were likely as not to shoot to a different place after pulling them out of a target, I decided to take my chances with a possible malfunction of an expandable, something I have not personally seen happen either to me or the people I have shot with.

Miles,
Fixed blades shoot to point of aim if you tune the set up properly.

Bluntly, BS.

Some of them might. Some of them will shoot the same time after time and some will not. Some of them shoot OK until you pull them out of the target. Some of them will not shoot with other identical heads on identical arrows that spin test to where you cannot see a difference. If the bow is tuned to shoot most of them together then the rest of them have issues? Rotating nocks to check spine orientation may or may not solve anything and if it does, once you pull the arrow out of the target there is no reason to EXPECT it to shoot to the same place. I might, and it sure would be nice if it did, and you certainly can hope. But EXPECT? Sorry, no. That's something you can bet on with most expandables and their dummy heads.

Can I find a fixed that will shoot consistently to point of aim? Probably but I may very well have to tune the bow to the arrow and head to get it and my field points may well shoot elsewhere.

If you don't mind, can you give some details on your broadhead tuning methods? Because what you're describing isn't my experience at all.

After finding out that they were so much less trustworthy than expandables, I went to bare shaft tuning of them, first trying the shaft with field points and then with the broadheads. This consisted of tuning by finding a nock setting that the shaft liked and hoping that the broadhead liked it too, which often wasn't true. Shooting the broadheads into targets showed me that some heads couldn't be pulled (they shot decently once). Some heads were spun before and after the shot which showed a difference and I made the assumption that it was the pulling although it could have just been the inpact. Don't know, don't care. I shoot a No Cam and an Excalbur Matrix 330 so tuning the bow only consisted of adjusting the rest on the No Cam. I did get Thunderheads and Muzzys to shoot OK in both, however, if they didn't shoot well I didn't try to tune the crossbow arrow if it spun well because all that was left then was refletching, obviously a slow and less likely to find the best position method.

The worst were NAP deep 6s. I tried a bunch in the No Cam, wholly unpredictable.

Have shot into BH targets. I push them through, take the head off, and then pull the shaft back and out (I shoot feathers).
When new it takes some effort, but after a couple seasons its a lot easier.

I say screw it anymore and go to a F&W area range and shoot into the sand banks.

Typically, I run decent FOC............125 gr heads on compound carbons, recurves get same but weights behind.

I did have one bow put BH way lower than FP.............were the same the yr before.
Year before I ran a vertical and horizontal dampening rest (GK Huntmaster 2000).
Shot great (only tested to 60 yards).

The next yr I tried a Ripcord drop away.

No string loop (eliminator buttons then and yr before).

Had to go to string loop on drop away, to get FP and BH back to same impact. Eliminator buttons had nice groups with BH or FP...............but BH was about 7" lower than FP at 30 yards.
Fixed blade BH.

I use the modified French tune and walk back methods and have zero issues with any of the modern 3 & 4 blade broadheads I've tried. My son and I both shoot our QAD Exodus broadheads to 70 yards and they're dead on the sight pin same as field points.

Fixed blades won't fly with field points? I call BS.

As for an arrow setup, id go 300 spine black eagle rampage. 58grn ss half out. 100 grn head. And cut them to put front of halfout at front of shelf. Not enough to be gained by going that short. Not worth the risk. Regardless of what rest you run

What will total arrow weight be?
I like somewhere around 150 grains up front, insert/broadhead. Current set-up are, Beman Pro Hunter 300s, 29 1/2", Rayzr feathers, 125 Wasp Boss heads with a total arrow weight of around 430sh grains, 62# in lower 270s. Last 2 deer have been quartering away and had complete penetration with arrow in the ground.

1 of them was a last rib hit and arrow came out in front of the opposite shoulder, still looking for the arrow.

Only advantage you will have by going 50/100 is availability of 100 grain broadheads is greater should you want to play with different makes.

Went with 75 grn inserts and 75 grn BH's total arrow weight is 420 grns and I'll be shooting a PSE Decree 29" at 66.5 lbs. I think it will be a lethal combination - arrows are a bit heavier than what I wanted but I think they will be packing quite the punch.