Home Forums Gear Hunting Trucks and Four-Wheel Drives Jeep Wranglers

I'm thinking about buying a used Jeep Wrangler, about 19997- 2004 which have a coil spring suspension, for a good ride,

Use would be light four wheeling, and just a fun vehicle.

Want a manual transmission, and 6 cylinder motor.

I've owned; '47, '49, '52, '58, '69, and two '73's but would like something with more "creature comforts" now that I'm getting older.

Any feedback on these Wranglers with the coli spring suspension? Anything to watch out for on these?

Thanks! Virgil B.

I had a 2000 Wrangler for almost 14 yrs. Mine had a manual transmission. But it didn't have the six. It had the 4 cly. If you don't have to have something that performs better on the highway, I'd recommend the 4 cly. Good gas mileage, more low end power off road, and better gearing for off roading.. That period's Wranglers don't do well with oversized tires and wheels. Stick with close to factory size with good off road tires and you can do lots of things that might surprise you. E

I have a 98 model 6cyl with low miles and it's a fun rig for pretty days and weekends.








The latter models of TJ had a 6spd manual instead of the 5spd like I have, which would be nice, as they had a granny 1st and their 6th was really not far from the overdrive ratio of the 5spd models. If wanting to keep it simple and fun, I would hunt for a model with the Dana 44 rear end, which was optional on the Sport and Sahara trim models. It got you 3.73 gears instead of the 3.07's that were standard with the smaller Dana 35 that came standard. That gearset lets you have plenty of power with 31-32" tires, which are easily accommodated with an inexpensive 2-2.5" lift. Mine has worn 31's, then 32's with a 2" spacer lift, then 33's with a 4" lift, and now 35's (regearing this summer). The 32's/spacers was the best combo for looks, handling, and power with the factory gearing. It would have been a dog with the 3.07 gears. Also, the Rubicon model came with dual Dana 44's and 4.10 gears, but they are spendy on the used market. The long-wheelbase Unlimited version also came with a standard 3.73 Dana 44 rear, but they are tough to find at a decent price too. If money is not an object, those two models are great.

Regarding things to watch out for, it's the same as any other Jeep, just more comfortable. Mine handles and rides better with 35's than my factory CJ did with 29's, as cool as the CJ was....lol. Check for floorpan rust and signs of abuse. The 4.0 goes forever and makes good power, plus the aftermarket still has great support for these rigs.

Good thread, I have an old 89 I bought new. It's been good. I'm thinking about a newer one also. I'm thinking a 2014 or so. Here is pic of old 89

A well-cared for Wrangler does hold its value pretty well around these parts, just like a Tacoma. A jeep that was $17-19k in the late 90's is still worth $11-13k now, provided mileage is reasonable. 30-35% depreciation for 20 years of use is not too bad.

Got off my ass and cleaned it up

I had '99 4 banger manual. Squirreliest POS I ever drove. Was glad to see it go.

The last jeep I had I put 300,000 miles on it was a 93 Sahara, with out any major repairs just tires and tune ups 4.0 inline 6, 5 speed, bought it new and drove it up on a flat bed and hauled it to the ranch, never licensed or insured never left the ranch, sold it 2 yrs ago to a local rancher for $ 5000.00, bought a 2004 LJ unlimited from a friend, that had 24,000 miles on it in line 4.0 6 with a 6 speed, liked the 5 speed better for ranch work, I drive a jeep all day every day here on the ranch doing ranch work and during hunting season my jeep is known as the bone collector, as I haul in a lot of game animals in with it.

my trap line in the winter is a little over 26 miles long and I can drive most of it in my jeep, I have worn out more pickups than the average fella will ever own,and for ranch work I learned to hate doors. open and close and walk around doors about 150 times a day and you will learn to love a jeep with no doors.

I do get wet and muddy when it rains, it rarely gets real cold here and we don't get snow, I just dress for the weather and drive a jeep it works for me, drive what ever works for you. My go to town car is a 2017 bright red Rubicon, Guess I am just a jeep guy. Rio7

My last Wrangler was a 1987 with a 4.2 six and 5 speed manual. It had a hardtop and hard doors. A/C and a radio too. It was mostly my duck hunting rig with a few big game hunts pulling a trailer to haul the animals in and some of the camp gear. Mine was pretty reliable over the ten years or so I had it. It was never lifted or had larger tires put on it. Been thinking of getting another one but they are hard to find without a lot of miles or a lot of beat up sheet metal around these parts. They do hold their value well.

1997 Wrangler Sport; here in Moab a few years back. Still under 40,000 miles on it.

Thanks for the replies!

And the pictures! Lots of good information here.

Now I know some good stuff to be looking for, such as the Dana 44 rear ends.

Going today to look at a 2002 Wrangler. It's $15,000. but only has 69,00 miles on it.


Thanks again! Virgil B.

I had a '98 TJ and an '05 Unlimited .. stretched TJ, what some people call an "LJ" even though Jeep didn't. Both had the 4.0L I-6. Jeep had bumped the power up a little by '05. The '98 had an AX-15 5 speed, the '05 had a then-new aluminum cased 6 speed. (From about 2002-2004 the manual was an NVG 3550. Some of those had problems popping out of gear under heavy load.) The AX-15 was a little shorter and a little stronger, however, the 6 speed was geared deeper. Net result was the older '98 had to be regeared with 4.10s to turn 33s but the '05 handled them very nicely with stock 3.73 R&P gears. I didn't leave either one stock very long. Simplest, cheapest way to get to 33s on a TJ is with a 2" suspension lift, 1" body lift, and 1" taller Currie motor mounts. They allow you to tip the motor by raising the front maintaining near-stock driveline angle, otherwise you have to drop the transfer case which defeats having taller tires in the first place. Either way, I'd recommend upgrading the steering. Currie's system has a new tie rod and drag link which are vastly stouter than stock. If you get a TJ make sure it has the factory option Dana 44 rear. The normal 35C prone to breakage under heavy use.

If I could find another '05 Unlimited with a manual transmission, I'd be on it like flies on stink. I got rid of mine in late 2007 'cause my kid tricked me into thinking we'd be meeting midway from Oregon to Colorado a lot after she graduated so I wanted something that did road trips better ... swapped the Unlimited for a Nissan Frontier. Frontier is a good truck but it's not a jeep. Those trips never happened. Bait 'n' switch.

Tom

Found a 2001 Sahara in a local add for $11,900. with 78,000 miles on it.

It has the Dana 44 rear end. and a 2.5" lift. 4.0 W/five speed

From the pictures, it looks really nice.

Trying to contact the owner, but he must be away for the three day week end.

Hope to check this one out this week some time.


Thanks again for the help! Virgil B.

If your not already aware of it you may want to GOGGLE for info on the 0331 head cracking issue on the 2000-01 Jeep 4.0s. In short there can be obvious signs but in many cases if the crack has just started it's hard to tell without doing a test for exhaust gases in the cooling system or sending an oil sample away for diagnosis of content.

I hate compromises. A Jeep is great once you get to the hills but it can't haul much, let alone pull a decent sized camper. It's great once you get there, though. It's much more maneuverable that most pickups and they're built for the rough stuff.
My choice is a big pickup with either my Polaris RZR or my llamas in the back. Then I can pull my camp trailer and still have the wheels, or legs, for the rough stuff.

There is a compromise though true Jeep enthusiasts won't admit it. For hunting-type tasks my 1st gen Grand Cherokee was just as capable as a Wrangler, a hell of a lot more stable with a trailer and had a heck of a lot more room inside to haul stuff. There is a lot of aftermarket support for them, the downfall is it'll cost you more to build equivalent capability in a Grand Cherokee than a Wrangler.

For many, an older Wrangler is a second vehicle. No need to compromise there or be overly practical, just enjoyable.....

If you bothered to read the OP, he said. "Use would be light four wheeling, and just a fun vehicle." Nothing about pulling trailers, hauling llamas or stuffing the back with a week or two's worth of camping gear.

Mine was a deer lease vehicle, but I have a Polaris now. So I drive it to work to save miles in my Dodge truck.

I did read it. Yes, they're fun for his purpose. However, if you want to have the same fun 300 miles from home, you might want to have some camping gear along or it will be a very long day.

I've got an '04 Tacoma TRD that's my daily driver, but it has 160,000 miles on it

My Wife has a 97 4-runner that we bought new, and it has 160,000 miles on it also

I'm wanting a Wrangler for a daily driver, so I can save miles on my other vehicles.

I don't pull a trailer, and camp in motels now days.

So, this Jeep will be a third vehicle, and just a fun rig for playing in the hills and sand dunes.

I'm selling my V W sandrail to finance part of the Jeep.

I looked at an '02 and it drove Horrible! But, the tires we shot also.

I'm not in a big hurry, Got to get my "other toy" sold first.

Virgil B.

I have owned four Jeeps.. a 77 CJ5, a 1999 TJ with the 2.5L 5-speed, and two 2005's, both 4.0L, 6-speeds; one of which I still own.

Having owned both the leaf-sprung CJ, and coil-sprung TJ, I can say that the ride is night and day. I have taken my TJ's on various road trips spanning over 1000 miles with no issues with ride quality or comfort. Granted, with the short wheelbase, they are no Lincoln, but they ride pretty comfortably compared to the CJ's and YJ's of yore.

As far as options, you are on the right track.. you definitely want the 4.0L and either the 5- or 6- speed manual. The later years (I believe 2000 and up) 4.0L used a distributorless ignition system, and I think they went to the Mercedes-built 6-speed manual in 2004. The 6-speed is nice because of the super-low 1st gear, and I think the extra top end gear improves fuel economy. If you don't mind paying a little extra, and can find one, try to snatch up a Rubicon if you can. They came factory equipped with front and rear lockers, stiffer springs, Dana 44's front and rear, as well as the 241 transfer case, which came standard with a slip-yoke eliminator (helpful if you ever lift it,) and a 4 to 1 low range. They're pretty capable little rigs stock.

Not much to look for as far as issues go, obviously rust, and track bars, though easy and cheap to replace, can be a problem area, if you have every heard of "death wobble," the track bar is the cause 99% of the time. If you find yourself cruising down the highway at 60-70 and have death wobble, you'll understand the term; you literally think you're going to die.

I have always lifted mine, it's personal taste. I think it makes them a little more capable off-road and look better. Though I don't do much mudding or rock-crawling these days, I still like the feeling that I can take it anywhere I need to go, and honestly, with good springs (Currie, Zone/BDS, OME) and shocks (Bilstein, OME) I think they ride better than stock, usually a little stiffer (not uncomfortable,) yet they feel much more stable. All of mine have had 3-4" lifts and I have always ran 33" tires; I have never lost more than a mile per gallon or two, and never really noticed much of a power loss, even with the 4 cylinder in my 1999, though alot of it depends on the Jeep's gearing.

My most current 2005 is completely stock, but I have the lift, tires and wheels in the barn, waiting to be installed, probably towards the end of summer when I get some time.

This was my previous TJ, a Rocky Mountain Edition with a Zone 4.25" lift, and 33x13.50 Nitto Mud Grapplers. I miss that Jeep, and wish I had never sold it. My current one is Impact Orange.

I've used jeeps for years as hunting vehicles. I've had a
1948 Willis
1975 CJ 5
1981 CJ 8 x 2
1987 Wrangler
1990 Wrangler
The 1990 had A/C and power steering

More GREAT information!

I know older Jeeps, but am learning lots about the newer Wranglers.

Thanks again!

Virgil B.

The first year I had my 2000 Wrangler out in the desert doing my usual deer hunting, I ran into several locals with ,modified, older Jeeps. Some of them looked like they had a lot of money sunk in them. But they were envious of mine, stock tires and no lift kit. Why ? Because it had coil spring suspension. Spend a day driving the rough desert washes and canyons, and you realize that those leaf springs, etc. will really take a toll on one. That was an eye opener for me. I find it interesting that both the Ford Raptor and the Ram Power Wagon use softer, less capable rear springs. E

The coil springs are why I decided I wanted a newer Wrangler.

They started putting the coil springs in them in 1997.

So, I'm looking at '97 on up, and for one with less than 120,000 miles on it.

And preferably pretty much stock.

Test driving an '04, I was amazed at the difference in ride compared to the older Jeeps that I owned with leaf spring suspension.

I'm older now, and LIKE my creature comforts!


Virgil B.

Coil springs? Dude! Next you'll say you want the heater to work. Maybe even a cupholder.

Tom

This takes me back to my army days in the 70's. Jeeps, aka Ford 1/4 tons, had the axles welded to the frames. The heaters were gasoline fired and sat between the front seats. You literally had to wear ear muffs to ride in one when the heaters were running. I can't believe the army could come up with something so stupid when millions of cars out there had perfectly good hot water heaters. Some military contractor made millions selling the government those things.

Went and looked at a 2001 Wrangler Sahara yesterday.

It only had 73,000 miles on it, and set up exactly how I would want one.

Dana 44 rear locker, etc. I checked the add this AM, and it's sold.

Have to sell my other "toy" first anyway.

But, I did have someone looking at the acreage I have for sale yesterday, and have the OK from my Wife to buy a new Rubicon, If and when my land sells.

Thanks again for the advice and tips!

Virgil B.

Holy CRAP!!


I was looking at new Rubicons, they're going for 40 Grand!

It would be a shame to run one of these through the brush.

But, they are NICE!


Virgil B.

Some observations of the conversation here regarding Jeeps, or for that matter any vehicle used off road.
Ive owned a few Jeeps over the years along with a bunch of other 4 wheel drive vehicles such as pickups, suburbans and blazers.
As off road hunting vehicles go, a Jeep Wrangler would be hard to beat. If care is taken as to how you load them, they will hold more
gear than any average hunter will ever need, and also those who aren't average like me.
There is however off road, and then there is off road. There are also times and conditions when just about any vehicle can be taken to
some pretty bad places. And there are also times when all of them might be better left parked from the safety standpoint.
Be that as it may its a short season, and most of us will go even when we know we shouldn't.

( And those are the times when we separate the good off road vehicles from the 4 wheel drive vehicles.)

If your 4 wheel drive vehicle does not have (locking differentals), then you do not have a 4 wheel drive vehicle, you only think you do. Think of it as having life jackets on a boat, you wont need them till you really need them.
Most of us realize that when one wheel loses traction and spins, the other wheel simply stops turning and just sits there doing nothing.
Have that happen on both front and back at the same time and its a recipe for a serious disaster. The very best off road tires are useless
on ice, unless they have studs in them. And it doesent even require ice, a very small amount of packed snow will have the same results,
with the right conditions such as a reasonably steep grade.
This happened to me personally while deer hunting in the mountainous region of PA. My Jeep CJ7 lost traction and started sliding backwards on just a trace of packed snow. There was just one place to go if I couldn't get it stopped in a hurry, and that was over the
edge with nothing to stop the roll. In a panic, I tried the brakes which didn't help. I then tried getting it moving forward again, but in my panic I stalled it when I popped the clutch. It was all over and I knew it, and so did my buddy from boyhood who was with me.
He was killed when he was thrown out and the rolling jeep crushed his skull. God only knows why I was spared, no doubt the steering
wheel and windshield smashed down on me helped me. My friend would have been 83 tomorrow, which is also VE day, and I'm now 82.
You never get over these things, you just learn to cope as best you can.
A couple years later, I bought another Jeep which I still have. An 06 Wrangler unlimited rubicon, now having about 65.000 miles on it.
There is no way the 2 jeeps can be compared. If id had this Jeep back then, the incident would never have happened. But it could also be said that if the CJ had been locked up it wouldn't have either.
One more thing that has haunted me is the fact that I stalled the Jeep when I tried to get it moving again.
I will never again own a stick shift off road vehicle, and I even hate riding in them. Again, there is no comparison as for performance in
tough spots. Truth is its an ego thing and nothing else.

Years ago I had an off-the-shelf CJ3A. One hunting trip, we pushed snow with the bumper all the way up an old logging road. On top, we got onto a very flat spot. It was raining a little and the snow was glare ice. We got stuck on the flat with the tires in 1/2" deep depressions. Both ends turning and going nowhere. It was actually kind of funny.

I've owned and used off road lots of vehicles. The biggest thing I've learned is you must understand what you are dealing with and the limitations of your vehicle. Dealing with ice is a lot different than dealing with snow in spite of the fact that they are often found on the same road. There is an old saying, "all a 4WD does for you is take a little further until you get stuck."
BTW, I could have bought a Rubicon Wrangler. But I bought the Willys Wheeler Package instead. It comes with a limited slip, rear differential. I added a Tru-Trac to the front end. Even w/o it, using it every day for a month in remote desert washes and canyons, it has never been stuck. E

I have a Willys as well and doing the same, adding a trutrac to the front and rear plus 4.56 gears...little better for pulling our overland trailer with the lower gears.

Question;

Is the housing the same size for the Dana 44 as the smaller rear ends?

Can a Dana 44 be swapped in, or would the whole rear/front end have to be changed out?

Also how about axles ? are they the same?

Virgil B.

It's not the same housing, so the entire axle would have to swapped. You can't just put 44 "guts" in a 35 axle housing. And aside from the strength issue, the 6cyl Dana 35 came with those 3.07 gears that make anything above a 31" tire a chore. The 4cyl models came with 4.10's in the Dana 35, but not the 6cyl. So you either get 6cyl power and highway gears, or 4cyl power and steep gears, unless you step up to the 44. That being said, gear ratios can always be changed. I'm planning to swap front and rear ring/pinions this summer and am looking at $1,500-1,700 from a reputable shop that does lots of 4x4 Jeep work and knows their stuff. It's worth it to me, as I plan to have my Jeep for a long time.

Jeep threads always make me grind my teeth at the utter stupidity of our government. How many Jeep DJ's did they buy for the post office over the last 60 years or so...all with 2 wheel drive? When they wear out, they're junk. Who wants to restore a 2wd? If they spent a little more for 4wd, every one of them would be worth $1000 no matter what condition, especially with those nice sliding door steel cabs. Which side the steering wheel is on is irrelevant most of the time.

JPro;

Thanks for the information!

Now I know when I buy, I will find one with the Dana 44 rear end.

And if money allows, a Rubicon is my goal, with the Dana 44 in front as well as back.

First step, is to sell my other "toy" ( V W sandrail)


Virgil B.

We drove from Ft. Bragg to Benning one February, in those jeeps. We had to take the transmission covers off them to get any heat we could off the engine. Those heaters weren't worth a mouse fart. I think that was the only time we ever had the canvas tops installed on them. It was a VERY tedious trip.