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Here is an 1899 22 Savage Hi power takedown. Ser # 126684. 20 inch barrel, however I could not unscrew the barrel? Is a tool needed for this style? Stock is hollowed out. All numbers matching. Bore looks good. I'm guessing its an H made in 1912? If someone would like to post the pictures please PM your cell # and I will send them TY.

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Also I passed on a very good shape 99 in 250 sav. Was factory DT. Ser# 771xxx, 99 marking was on side of receiver not the top. Looked like a G? Had sling studs and a pistol grip cap and checkering, was not a TD. Was asking 735. I walked away and when I went back it was gone!! Did I miss out?

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Sometimes you'll encounter TD's which have had their barrels "permatized" in place by previous owners. Sometimes other TD's require a nudge to get started- to that end utilize the square-holed iron insert in the forearm channel as a "gripper" on the TD hook on the barrel. If that doesn't work, leave well enough alone is the commonly held tenet.

The one you passed up was an EG, not a G. Unless it was cute as a button you did good to walk away from it, IMO. EG= most common variety and treasured much more for their utility than their rarity (although .250 caliber makes it a bit more valuable).


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Thank you very much Sir! My stomach feels better now

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For a very nice factory d&t 99EG in 250-3000, that price isn't unreasonable, especially if you could talk him down. But you didn't miss out on the deal of the century.

Make sure you have the bolt/lever open when trying to remove the barrel. And don't twist hard if you use the forearm to twist it, you won't believe the number of forearms with cracks due to that. I'd use something else than the forearm - but no wrenches or pliers, either. grin


The Savage 99 Pocket Reference”.
All models and variations of 1895’s, 1899’s and 99’s covered.
Also dates, checkering, engraving.. Find at www.savagelevers.com
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Thanks Calhoun. But I'm sure its over a hundred years old. And if its stuck I'm going to leave it be or find a experienced gunsmith to look at it. I know my limitations. Do you think the swivel bolts were factory on that EG?

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The factory didn't put sling studs on EGs.

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Thank you Lightfoot

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A lot of the interrupted thread TD's don't come apart. Savage went to full threads requiring about 7 turns to remove the barrel about 1920. The interrupted thread type is more convenient but probably wore quickly resulting in Savage going to full threaded barrels and lot of the interrupted thread rifles getting the barrels permanently fixed. David


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I'll wager that the Savage bean counters effected the switch to uninterrupted threads- less costly to make. As for causing less wear? Think about it- 7 turns versus a quarter turn- which will cause less wear to the threads?

As for a fair number of early TD barrels not coming apart- lots of reasons to include but not limited to owners (mistakenly) wanting them tight for accuracy reasons, thread lock applied for the same reason, simple rust/gunk accumulation from setting in the closet for 60 years and never taken apart. The interrupted thread design can't possibly contribute to that condition in and of itself. In fact it would have the opposite effect- less thread surface area to accumulate the schmeck that tends to bind the threads.


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Originally Posted by gnoahhh
I'll wager that the Savage bean counters effected the switch to uninterrupted threads- less costly to make.

Hmm.. I think the change in threading was more of an attempt to "tighten" things up for better accuracy - or at least convince consumers that it had better accuracy. Even Townsend Whelen made multiple remarks disparaging the takedown 1899's as being inaccurate and that the solid frame models were always to be preferred. Saw one comment of his where he stated that he'd seen the zero change by up to 8" (I think it was 8") on an 1899 simply by taking it down and putting it back together.


The Savage 99 Pocket Reference”.
All models and variations of 1895’s, 1899’s and 99’s covered.
Also dates, checkering, engraving.. Find at www.savagelevers.com
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I figured all those little corners on the threads would be easy to bugger up causing the lockup to loosen. But I'm not a gunsmith or machinist. David


wyo1895
With Savage never say never.
For a copy of my book on engraved Savage lever actions rifles send a check for $80 to; David Royal, p.o. box 1271, Pinedale, Wy., 82941. I will sign and inscribe the book for you.
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You guys know the second rifle in the last picture. You guys helped me identify it. I think its an 1899 A in 303 TD short rifle (22 inch barrel) Ser # 124xxx made in 1912. The 22 HP is just a miniature version of it I guess. So the 22 HP is that also considered an A?

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No, the 22HP is an 1899H. Shorter, thinner barrel and lightweight stock.


The Savage 99 Pocket Reference”.
All models and variations of 1895’s, 1899’s and 99’s covered.
Also dates, checkering, engraving.. Find at www.savagelevers.com
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1899H.


I honestly don't notice a significant shift in POI by repeatedly taking my takedowns apart. Granted they are all very tight, requiring strong hands to snug them up. I used to take the precaution of keeping them assembled after sighting in on the eve of a hunting trip. I don't bother anymore with that since I satisfied my curiosity about that POI deal. Don't get me wrong- things might shift an inch or so for me which to me is well inside my requirements for an iron-sighted carbine that'll be used in venues often measured in feet not yards. Would I accept that in a precision squirrel/target rifle or a rifle intended for cross-pasture groundhog shooting? Oh heck no. Apples taste different than oranges, you know.


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Originally Posted by wyo1895
I figured all those little corners on the threads would be easy to bugger up causing the lockup to loosen. But I'm not a gunsmith or machinist. David



If those corners got buggered up, it would more likely have the effect of tightening things up I believe. It's regular Joe's cramming the threads together haphazardly without keeping them scrupulously clean and lubed that wears them inordinately. That and taking them down repeatedly for no good reason.

One thing I have noticed with TD barrels is a lack of rifling wear at the muzzle from horny-handed enthusiastic cleaning rod usage. One distinct advantage of TD Savages is them lending themselves to cleaning from the breech. Could be just the samples I viewed though.

As with all things corporate since the beginning of time, I always go with economic reasons holding sway over engineering reasons when it comes to design changes in products. Whether interrupted or uninterrupted threads are "better" or not is a moot point. They undoubtedly saved $.65 by eliminating two broaching operations in the process of making a 99. That, spread out over 10's of thousands of units would've paid for the CEO's new Packard.


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Are they both made in 1912 then? Thank you guys very much

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Shot the 22 HP yesterday. Very fun rifle. That savage action is incredibly slick in the smaller cartridge! However with those open sights it shot OK but was 10 inches high!! Trigger was very good. Now I understand why people put peep sights on these older rifles. Was surprised it felt just like shooting a 30-30 round in the recoil department. Shot County Line Classic ammo in the 55 gr JSP bullet. Good stuff and very reasonable at 30 bucks a box. Was very funny to see all the looks and stares at the local gun range. Although I had never seen an 1899 H savage either in 22 til this one showed up at my door.


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