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I have owned several Ruger Number 1's over the almost 50 years. All of them have been red pad guns made before Ruger started making their own barrels. Some I could get to shoot well enough and some never responded to to any of my efforts. The easiest ones I worked with were the heavier barreled guns, .458, 45-70, .375 and, oddly, a Number 3 in .30-40 Krag whose barrel had about the same exterior dimensions as my .45-70. Seemed to me the lighter barrels, particularly the 1A configuration were much more difficult to get to shoot properly. A recent red pad 1A in 30-06 shot great 1" groups...horizontally, 9" groups vertically. That said....

I just ran across a new 7-08 1A. I think this is from a run of rifles marketed by Lipseys. Probably the best wood I have seen on any of the recent Number 1's I've examined. Price is right also and I am getting the old itch to own another, but a Number 1's can be like a beautiful wife who treats you badly. Wonderful to look at but you are secretly contemplatinga divorce.

I've read some good things about the newer Number 1's. I am in love...but cautious. Should I seal the deal? What's the experience out there on the newer Number 1's?

Last edited by meddybemps; 05/25/17.

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I've actually had better luck, accuracy-wise, with #3s. I've only had four number 1#s, certainly not a representative number and all of mine were older models, all purchased new but one. Got rid of the last one a number of year ago. While I got occasional good groups with all these rifles, it was never consistent (as with a good bolt-action) and three of the rifles wouldn't hold a zero for any great length of time.

Gunwriter and former Ruger employee (in the 80s, I think) C.E. Harris commented that a Ruger #1 that would consistently shoot 1 1/2" groups was a good one. I'd have to agree. I understand they shoot much better now, but I doubt I'd try another unless it was a steal. As for looks, can't beat a #1.

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Meddybumps,

I've owned around a dozen No. 1's since Ruger started making their own barrels in the 1990's chambered in rounds from the .22 Hornet to .375 H&H, including maybe four 1A's. All have shot well, about half of them right out of the box. The other half shot just as well after very simple rebedding of the forend, consisting of using a fine file to eliminate any "high" spots at the rear of the forend, where it butts up against the front of the receiver, plus a dab of epoxy bedding compound at the forend tip, to keep it stable.

Don't recall even one that didn't shoot into an inch for 3 shots at 100 yards with at least one load, and some have been better. My .22 Hornet 1B started putting five shots in an inch right out of the box, and with the right handloads will put five in half an inch.


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My No.1 in 30/40 Krag is a Cabela Special. I always wanted one but never moved on one until I saw this one. The wood is stunning and it shoots factory Remingtons very well. At least good enough that I am considering using it on an elk hunt this fall. It has been a safe queen so far, but I did sight it in with a Leupold straight tube, I think 1 -5X, or something like that. A gorgeous rifle that shoots well to the limits of cartridge. Trigger is pretty nice as well. I like it alot.

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Originally Posted by lotech
I've actually had better luck, accuracy-wise, with #3s. I've only had four number 1#s, certainly not a representative number and all of mine were older models, all purchased new but one. Got rid of the last one a number of year ago. While I got occasional good groups with all these rifles, it was never consistent (as with a good bolt-action) and three of the rifles wouldn't hold a zero for any great length of time.

Gunwriter and former Ruger employee (in the 80s, I think) C.E. Harris commented that a Ruger #1 that would consistently shoot 1 1/2" groups was a good one. I'd have to agree. I understand they shoot much better now, but I doubt I'd try another unless it was a steal. As for looks, can't beat a #1.


I had a #1 in 25-06, that I so badly wanted to shoot well, had it worked on after getting truly mediocre and inconsistent groups. Still had the tendency throw flyers. I just couldn't trust it. It had absolutely beautiful wood. I wanted to keep it, but It went down the road.

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I have owned a few in my life, 270s, a 30-06 a 243 and now my 9.3X74R. I have also worked on many of them that came to the shop for work. Some were quite good right out of the box and a few were nightmares. I re-barreled a 7MM Mag 2 years ago that was awful, shooting every load we tried into patterns at 100 yards of about 8-9 inches. Nothing I could do would tighten it up, so after some efforts the customer agreed to let me re-barrel it. A new barrel, and now it shoots MOA.

So #1s can be hot or cold. Older ones had a bit tighter tolerances to their actions but barrels could run from so-so to good. Newer ones have a bit looser actions (not important in their function) but better barrels as a rule. My 9.3X74R was a gun I made a trade for. The man I made the trade with assured me it was accurate and I had no reason to disbelieve him. His claim of accuracy was understated. The 9.3 is a freak in how well is shoots. I have only seen maybe two #1s ever that shot as well. It's become one of my favorite hunting rifles.

My old 243 was very good too. It would shoot about MOA with several loads and with the best load it would shoot under MOA.
One of the 270s would shoot MOA also. My 30-06 was about 1.5 MOA with what it liked the best.

I know a man in Casper that owns one in 300H&H that is a freak for accuracy too. Under MOA with his loads.

But I have seen dozens of them in my shot that struggled to hold under 3.5". Most I have been able to get better accuracy from, and some responded super well, going from playing card size groups to coin size. But now and then I get one coming through that just shoots "OK at best", and nothing seems to help. Mostly the older ones with the Wilson barrels.

I trust them now, with the Ruger barrels. I can't say they would be dependable for "sniper competition" but getting one that will hit a quarter at 100 every time is not at all uncommon anymore.

Just as a side note, there was one #1 "sniper's rifle" I saw in New Mexico about 10 years ago.

I was helping to put on a competition for Military and police snipers, and one 21 year old police cadet came down to shoot. He was a Wyoming farm boy and his rifle was a Ruger #1 in 270 Winchester. Not painted, not customized, just stock. He put a sleeve over it for camouflage, for the purpose of the 3 day shoot.

He won that match!

He shot against all comers, at least some of whom were M.O.S. US Military Snipers and a handful of whom were ranked bench rest competitors.
I didn't shoot his rifle, so I can't say how tight it would shoot, but he made regular hits out to 800 yards over the 3 day course.
It sure could not have been in-accurate!

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The heavier contoured barrels seem to be easier to get to shoot. Floating the barrel can help. The angled forend screw can be an issue, especially with light barrels. It is possible to bed the forend with a three point bedding setup. Then remove wood from the rear of the forend where it contacts the action. Jon Sandra wrote an article on this procedure way back in the 70s. I did it on a Number 3 and it stopped the vertical stringing.

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I'm getting too old to waste time on fussy rifles.

Problem is I have always liked single shots, Rugers in particular. As a kid, I lusted after some of Wilbur Hauck's rifles , and drooled over pictures of Winchester High Wall varmint rifles, all sadly unobtainable on a lawn mower's income. I was in college when Ruger came out with the Number 1, and I remember just staring at the first advertisement for them in the American Rifleman. Two years after graduation I had my first Number 1....a 1B in .22-250. By then I was a dedicated woodchuck hunter and budding benchrest shooter. With its 2" groups,that rifle was good for neither pursuit.I juggled loads and tinkered with the bedding...all to no avail. That was 45 years ago. I have owned several since then...but buying one has always been a bit of a crap shot.

From what I am reading here it looks like a red pad vs. black pad thing. I don't know at which point Ruger switched to the black pad and whether it was precisely contemporaneous with the switch to the in-house barrels. But I would be nervous buying one of the older red pad rifles. I suspect the new 7mm-08 may end up in the gunsafe by the end of the weekend.


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The switch from red to black pad occurred at just about the same time as the barrels. I have yet to shoot a black-pad No. 1 that wasn't decently accurate, and as noted in my first post some have been VERY accurate.


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I have also owned a few and I could get every one to shoot very well. All have been 90's vintage or newer as I got on the No.1 band wagon late. I have found some to be somewhat particular about what they shot well but never the less accurate. I had a 25-06 1B in particular that would only shoot 117-120 grain bullets at max and nothing else worth a damn. 87 grain varmint bullets would group at 4-5 inches but, 117 or 120's loaded at max would bug hole all day.

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In addition to the few #1s I've had, I've also owned a number of varmint rifles built on original high wall and low wall actions (and one Remington Hepburn) in a variety of standard and wildcat chamberings. Most were fairly accurate, but I recall none that were exceptionally accurate, like a good bolt-action.

While it was an enjoyable experience thirty or so years ago working with the single shots in various chamberings, these are long gone and I miss none of them.

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A little bedding at the front of the fore end, relieving the wood from touching the action and putting a semi stiff wedge between
the hangar and the barrel has worked for me with #1s and #3s.
Helped accuracy, and also held poi from session to session.
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I have owned four of them, all various .22 centerfires. Three were heavy barrel and one a sporter. None would shoot 1" groups, before or after I poured a lot of money into accurizing attempts.
Great looking guns but I am done with them.


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I have had 5or 6 over the years as has my buddy. All but a couple of my buddy's have been red pads. Neither of us have had any real stinkers with most shooting at least silver dollar sized groups out of the box. I had a 22-250 and a 243 both 1Bs that would shoot three shot groups into your thumb nail at 100 yds. The two I have had that were the most finicky were both 1As in 7x57 . I eventually got then to 1-1/2 " -2"thru load development but that was about it for those.

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Originally Posted by Mule Deer
Meddybumps,

I've owned around a dozen No. 1's since Ruger started making their own barrels in the 1990's chambered in rounds from the .22 Hornet to .375 H&H, including maybe four 1A's. All have shot well, about half of them right out of the box. The other half shot just as well after very simple rebedding of the forend, consisting of using a fine file to eliminate any "high" spots at the rear of the forend, where it butts up against the front of the receiver, plus a dab of epoxy bedding compound at the forend tip, to keep it stable.

Don't recall even one that didn't shoot into an inch for 3 shots at 100 yards with at least one load, and some have been better. My .22 Hornet 1B started putting five shots in an inch right out of the box, and with the right handloads will put five in half an inch.

John, do you remove any wood from the forend tip when bedding or just rough it up a bit? Also, when removing wood at the back of the forend, do you only try and eliminate wood contact with the action on the sides of the forend or do you also address contact on the bottom side in front of the lever/trigger guard?

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I wouldn't hesitate to buy any black pad model if it scratched an itch. I currently have 5 No. 1's (1 red pad and 4 black pad models) and have owned a few others over the years. My black pad 375 H&H out of the box is one of the most accurate rifle I own consistently shooting sub-MOA with several loads. The others will usually shoot either side of MOA and rarely over 1.5 MOA. When groups aren't as tight I like, they're generally stringing vertically with 2 together and 1 high. I plan to bed forend tips on a couple and see how that affects things. The red pad is a 1A 7x57 with a very long throat and though it shoots well enough, all of my black pad models group a little tighter.

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I've owned or shot about 20 of them, everything from a .218 Bee to a .475 Turnbull. When they have good barrels, they are much less fussy grin It also helps a lot when they have the barrel twist they are supposed to have!

It's generally thought that the early rifles and the black pad rifles are the best, but good ones can be found in any year. Recently I picked up a really fine Liberty 7x57 #1A. The first groups sprayed patterns, and I was worried about it, but then I checked the twist and found it was 1 in 10", not the 8.75" that references stated. The barrel is a little rough, but it still managed to group under 1½" for three shots, with 140gr Accubonds. Some different loads and tweaks should help it a lot, and I may fire lap it, too. I have a coupe of other mid-70's rifles, that are very accurate.

There is no doubt some of the red pad guns were real stinkers, but I think most of those have been rebarreled by this point in time.




Last edited by tex_n_cal; 05/30/17. Reason: add info

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I've owned around half a dozen since the mid 90's and all shot better than any of the 77 MKII's & Hawkeyes I've owned. I currently just have one, a #1A 7mm-08 and it loves Hornady factory ammo, both the Whitetail 139 gr & ELD-X 150's...so much so that I don't bother loading for it.

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JGray,

I don't remove any wood from the tip, just rough it up enough to hold the bedding compound firmly. At the rear of the forend I file off any dark spots, indicating the wood's been compressed by firmer contact with the action, no matter where they are.


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well, some examples:

Bone stock K1V .223

[Linked Image]

Bone stock .475 Turnbull

[Linked Image]

bone stock 1976 1B .270 Winchester

[Linked Image]

One time I had the .270 above at the 50 yard bench. I was shooting other things and decided just to double check zero. I fired one, and it went where it was supposed to go. I fired two more and became concerned, because no new holes appeared . I adjusted aim an inch higher, and a single new hole appeared an inch above the first. With a 10x scope at 50 yards, I could not tell that there were three bullets in the first hole. smile


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Originally Posted by Mule Deer
JGray,

I don't remove any wood from the tip, just rough it up enough to hold the bedding compound firmly. At the rear of the forend I file off any dark spots, indicating the wood's been compressed by firmer contact with the action, no matter where they are.

Thank you!

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Originally Posted by Mule Deer
JGray,

I don't remove any wood from the tip, just rough it up enough to hold the bedding compound firmly. At the rear of the forend I file off any dark spots, indicating the wood's been compressed by firmer contact with the action, no matter where they are.


I appreciate this advice. I'm about to get my project gun back and will be shooting it in benchrest matches right away. It shot like crazy in the factory take-off stocks that I modified into patterns. I'm hoping it shoots like that when I get it. If it doesn't, this is the first thing I will do. I gotta make it shoot good enough so I don't make a complete fool of myself in our local club matches.

Thanks.

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Dick,
For over 30 years , I owned No 1s I have done pretty much what John B has done . I have both used pressure points and a total free float. Never had a No 1 that was not a solid MOA or less shooter with handloads.I have had a few in Varmint calibers that averaged closer to 1/2 MOA.

The basics of tweeking the barrel bedding are the same as a bolt gun once you solidly glass bed the forend to the three contact points on the forend hanger.

Once that is done, if you insist on a bedding pad then, you need to make sure the back edge is not touching the action to prevent any fore and aft binding as John mentions .

If you free float the barrel to not contact the hanger or forend ,the contact of the forend and action at the rear becomes moot ...

The only other issue with Number Ones can be binding between the factory quarter rib recoil studs in the as the barrel heats .That is not going to be an issue due to your scope and mount setup on your .222

IMHO, since your new triple Duece is going to be an target gun ,I would think very strongly about neatly free floating that barrel. Let your handloads fine tune the groups. Leave that forend out of the equation and treat it like a real benchrest rifle. I bet it'll shoot like one;)



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[quote=jk16]Dick,
For over 30 years , I owned No 1s I have done pretty much what John B has done . I have both used pressure points and a total free float. Never had a No 1 that was not a solid MOA or less shooter with handloads.I have had a few in Varmint calibers that averaged closer to 1/2 MOA.

The basics of tweeking the barrel bedding are the same as a bolt gun once you solidly glass bed the forend to the three contact points on the forend hanger.

Once that is done, if you insist on a bedding pad then, you need to make sure the back edge is not touching the action to prevent any fore and aft binding as John mentions .

If you free float the barrel to not contact the hanger or forend ,the contact of the forend and action at the rear becomes moot ...

The only other issue with Number Ones can be binding between the factory quarter rib recoil studs in the as the barrel heats .That is not going to be an issue due to your scope and mount setup on your .222

IMHO, since your new triple Duece is going to be an target gun ,I would think very strongly about neatly free floating that barrel. Let your handloads fine tune the groups. Leave that forend out of the equation and treat it like a real benchrest rifle. I bet it'll shoot like one;)


I've done this so far exactly as I would any other custom rifle. The fore end is inletted very tight. I will shoot it exactly as is and hope for the best. Making many modifications will be complicated with the escutcheon and all.

However, it is meant to shoot in matches and I'm guessing that I will end up doing exactly as you say.

When I started I wanted a match rifle that was more elegant than most BR guns. They tend to be long on accuracy and short on elegant. I'm anticipating a lot of very careful work to actually make this shoot the way it did in the pattern stocks whilst retaining my version of elegant.

When I test fired it I got a group in the low 1's at 50 yds. and one that was about 3/8" at 100 yds. I know it would shoot then... we'll see how it does in the new stocks. I'm totally ready with my loading bench all set up and 100 neck turned and primed Lapua match cases just waiting for a gun.

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Over the decades, I've owned No.1 "red pads" in .223, .22-250, .357Mag., .30-06, .45-70, and .375 Ouch & Ouch. Influenced by Jon R. Sundra's article, mentioned by LeonHitchcox, above, I epoxy bedded the three forearm hanger points, but didn't see much point in keeping the forearm clear of the receiver, so I bedded that too, on all the rifles. Then, I entirely free floated all barrels, just enough so I could not squeeze the forearms enough to make contact with the barrels. They all shot marvelously. As an example, I put 20 300 gr. Sierra BTs through the .375 off the bench at 100 yards one day (a sobering experience) with the last five going into an inch. Trouble was, I couldn't get anyone to answer the phone I kept hearing, so I didn't do that anymore.

Sadly, all those No.1s found new homes, as time passed, leaving me with none. But, I still have a Kepplinger single-set trigger without a No.1 to cling to, so I've kept looking for the right one. Found it on GunBroker the other day: a Lipsey's No.1-A in .275 Rigby, with a 24" barrel and express sights. It's on the road to me, now. Though it has a red pad, it's of recent manufacture, and I have high hopes for it.

Steve


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Congratulations on getting the 275 Rigby. I think you will like it. You might be interested in my comments about the Lipsey's 1A's in 275 Rigby here:
www.classicsportingarms.com


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Originally Posted by Exchipy



Sadly, all those No.1s found new homes, as time passed, leaving me with none. But, I still have a Kepplinger single-set trigger without a No.1 to cling to, so I've kept looking for the right one. Found it on GunBroker the other day: a Lipsey's No.1-A in .275 Rigby, with a 24" barrel and express sights. It's on the road to me, now. Though it has a red pad, it's of recent manufacture, and I have high hopes for it.

Steve



Congrats, I bet it shoots well smile


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El_Numero_Uno and tex_n_cal,

Thanks, guys. It's due Monday.

Steve


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Originally Posted by tex_n_cal
Originally Posted by Exchipy



Sadly, all those No.1s found new homes, as time passed, leaving me with none. But, I still have a Kepplinger single-set trigger without a No.1 to cling to, so I've kept looking for the right one. Found it on GunBroker the other day: a Lipsey's No.1-A in .275 Rigby, with a 24" barrel and express sights. It's on the road to me, now. Though it has a red pad, it's of recent manufacture, and I have high hopes for it.

Steve



Congrats, I bet it shoots well smile


Haven't shot it yet. Still setting it up. Already installed the Kepplinger single set trigger, and the Leupold Vari-X II 1-4x20 (gloss) is on its way.


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I have 3 No.1's 45-70, 375 H&H and 7x57 all newer rifles. The 45-70 with 405gr @1750fps handloads is an inch at 100yds 3 shot, the 375 H&H with 300gr Swift A Frames at 2500fps an inch the 7x57 which is an International 1 1/2" with Federal Premium 140gr Nosler. I suspect the 7x57 will do better with handloads, These are all 3 shot groups not 5. Guess I got lucky in the accuracy dept.

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[Linked Image]

I got my No. 1 .222 just a day and a half before our local benchrest match. This is the first target I shot with the new gun in competition. Distance was 100 yds. Everything was brand new and I had to fire form cases. I had no practice with the Kepplinger trigger and managed to yank it pretty good on the number one target. That one aside, this was a fairly decent group.

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I had a #1 in 6 mm Rem with a varmint weight barrel. I didn't shoot for diddly so I returned it to Ruger and upon it's return it still didn't shoot for diddly. I again returned it and again when it returned to me it wasn't shooting anywhere like I wanted so I called them to ask what load they was using to test the rifle.....that's when I learned that 1 1/2" groups at 50 yards was their standard....if it shot that well it was shipped to the customer.......Folks, I ask you.....did you ever shoot prairie dogs with a 3" grouping rifle?

They are one gorgeous looking rifle and I sure hope they have improved them.....(a lot).....but sting me once......you know the rest of it. Over the years I have purchased way too many duds from Ruger and today there are no Rugers in my house and won't be ever again.

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Originally Posted by vapodog
I had a #1 in 6 mm Rem with a varmint weight barrel. I didn't shoot for diddly so I returned it to Ruger and upon it's return it still didn't shoot for diddly. I again returned it and again when it returned to me it wasn't shooting anywhere like I wanted so I called them to ask what load they was using to test the rifle.....that's when I learned that 1 1/2" groups at 50 yards was their standard....if it shot that well it was shipped to the customer.......Folks, I ask you.....did you ever shoot prairie dogs with a 3" grouping rifle?

They are one gorgeous looking rifle and I sure hope they have improved them.....(a lot).....but sting me once......you know the rest of it. Over the years I have purchased way too many duds from Ruger and today there are no Rugers in my house and won't be ever again.


Hmm my .338 Win Mag #1 1st handload I tried out the gate (100 yds)


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Hmm my .338 Win Mag #1 1st handload I tried out the gate (100 yds)

I didn't say they are all bad....only repeated what the folks at Ruger told me when I asked how they tested the gun for accuracy.....

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There's good coverage here an #1 accuracy. I've owned about 25 of them over the years. The only one I couldn't get to shoot MOA or near it was a 1976 1B in .270Win. I still own a few.

One thing about the No.1 is that it has a slow lock time. It takes concentration on the bench to hold steady and follow through with each shot.


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I have one of the first stainless with laminated stock. At 100 yards hole for hole-200yards 1 inch and 300 yards 2 1/8 inch. Harvested a mule deer at 440 yards with it. This is in 300 win mag and very heavy gun. Love the number ones.

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Thank you all who have replied to my question. I continue to be impressed by the depth of knowledge that exists here on the Campfire. You were all kind enough to take the time to post answers so it's the least I can do to tell you the REST of the story.

When I started this thread, I was really torn between my affection for Number 1's and my memories of frustrating afternoons at the range trying to get one or another of them to shoot decently. There was nice 7-08 on sale at the local Cabelas. Attractive wood with pronounced grain in the butt stock and a trace of fiddleback on the forend; if it shot well, it would be a really fun deer rifle. But, having been burned before I was cautious. I simply do not have the time or the patience to deal with a finicky rifle..... hence my question here as to how well the newer No. 1's shoot.

From what I read in your replies, the newer rifles have better barrels than the older red pad guns that have given me so much grief. Sooooo, thus emboldened by your encouragements, and knowing that I could sue your butts off if it didn't work out, I bought the rifle.....well, actually, that's not entirely true, my wife bought the rifle...it was my birthday. ( I have learned to always bring my long-suffering and indulgent spouse to gun shops on or around my birthday. I am ashamed...not really...to admit that over the years this tactic has resulted in some very nice additions to the collection.....last year a straight gripped, 20 gauge Fox Sterlingworth, bent for a left hander no less.I digress.)

Well, in spite of the twists and turns of this tale,that's not entirely the end of the story. Seeing that the 7-08 was on my wife's credit card, it only seems fitting to celebrate my eighth decade and my entry into full blown geezerhood, that I mark the occasion with a purchase of my own....and Number 1's were on sale and the price has gone up sharply this year ($1829 from Lipseys?!! ) and, well, I have always wanted a 1S in 30-06 and a 24 inch barrel would get the most of an '06 and, I am getting tired of knocking off stuff with synthetic stocked bolt actions that have no soul, and, and, and, damn...OK I bought it.

So there, because of you guys, I bought not one, but two new Number 1's. My impressions and preliminary shooting results follow.


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Let's start with the 7-08 first.

As I said earlier, the rifle has much nicer wood than most of the recent Number 1's I have seen. One of my criticisms of 1A's over the years is that they often seem butt heavy, but this particular rifle seems to balance nicely wearing a Leupold VX 2 2x-7x 32 . I replaced the number #5 rings that came with rifle with a set of low rings, but I need to exchange the rear rings for extended rings to allow the scope to come back another 1/2 inch . Why Ruger ships these rifles with high rings is a mystery...who in their right mind would put a 50 mm scope on a 1A? OK, well, maybe you would, but to my eye at least, a big objective lens just seems out of place here.

The trigger pull is heavy and creepy, measuring well off the high end of my trigger scale. Fit and finish is not up to the standards of older rifles.The wood sits noticeably proud of the receiver, not terrible, but not as well stocked as my older rifles. The polishing of the metal is not what it use to be either, but, again, it's not awful. It' just not as well finished as my previous Number 1's.The over all impression though is quite positive. This is a handsome rifle. The chamber seems to be short. The Sierra 140's I loaded to Sierra OAL were in full contact with the lands. I seated them 20 thou deeper.

I can hear you asking..... how does it shoot? Quick answer is, pretty well. I just grabbed a load that has shot well in other 7-08's, 140 gr. Sierra PH ,46 and 47 grs. of Win.760/H414 over a Fed 210 primer in Winchester cases..run out on all was less than .002. The heavy trigger pull was not conducive to fine accuracy and my bench technique was a little rusty, but the rifle seemed to want to shoot... groups measures just over 1.5''s usually with 4 in an inch or under with one hanging out. Happily, groups did not display any tendency to string vertically. Shooting the gun hot does not appear to affect group size. I am going to like this rifle, but the trigger needs to be worked on and I will install a red Pachmayr Decelerator pad on general principles. I will relieve the wood at the end of the back of forend so that it just barely touches the receiver. May or may not put a 1/4 tsp. of bedding compound at the front of the forend.

I entrusted the rifle to the care of a talented young gunsmith with instruction to fix the trigger, install a recoil pad... I know, it's a light recoiling 7-08... and take a file to the forend. I think I am really going to like this rifle.

There is an outside chance that this rifle will accompany me to Newfoundland for moose this fall. Having knocked off a couple moose with synthetic stocked '06's, I can't see any reason why a 7-08 Number 1 with a decent bullet wouldn't seal the deal.

OK, next are my impressions of the 1S 30-06. But the hour is late and the two single malts are taking their toll. Time for bed. I'll tell you about the 30-06 tomorrow.
.










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"There is an outside chance that this rifle will accompany me to Newfoundland for moose this fall. Having knocked off a couple moose with synthetic stocked '06's, I can't see any reason why a 7-08 Number 1 with a decent bullet wouldn't seal the deal."

It would be a good idea to pull the wood on those rifles and seal the insides. Every Ruger #1 I own (20) has only shown stain sprayed on and nothing resembling a sealing job.

I've seen the same on my Ruger M77s which in my book makes them fair weather rifles.

Case in point, a Ruger #1B in .300 Win. Mag. I took as the main rifle on an elk hunt. A fast moving weather front came in and there was some of the heaviest rain I've ever seen. The rifle and I were soaked to the skin. As far as the hunt went, we saw no elk. On the way home we stopped at a ranch to overnight, then hunt a few pheasants and head on home. While hunting, we saw a coyote running off with a pheasant in his mouth and the only rifle in the truck was my #1. Three shots and I never toughed him and no one could tell where the bullets were hitting.

A couple of days after getting home, I took the rifle to the range and couldn't even touch the paper. The guy next to me helped out by looking for the bullet strikes and said they were hitting just below the top of the berm which placed those hits over 6 feet higher than where I was aiming. Wasn't even enough adjustment in the scope to compensate.
To make the this long sad story short, it took over 6 years in Tucson's very dry climate before that rifle could be used again. The stock on my rifle literally soaked up water like a sponge.

I hunt my #1's but when it gets wet, the McMillan stocked 30-06 comes out to play.
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Point well taken. I have given the gunsmith instructions to weather proof both rifles. My main concern would be the end of the buttstock under the recoil pad and especially where it meets the receiver. Had a few experiences like yours and in Newfoundland, the weather is your constant companion.


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Originally Posted by szihn
My 9.3X74R was a gun I made a trade for. The man I made the trade with assured me it was accurate and I had no reason to disbelieve him. His claim of accuracy was understated. The 9.3 is a freak in how well is shoots. I have only seen maybe two #1s ever that shot as well. It's become one of my favorite hunting rifles.




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My 9.3 x 74 R doesn't do so badly either, though I might do better more regularly with more than a 2.5X scope and a better cushion than steel and walnut between me and the 286 grainers. wink

(That's a 4" red circle.)


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Love the looks and my 1s 300 H&H is a shooter.


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Originally Posted by sidepass
Love the looks and my 1s 300 H&H is a shooter.


May I ask the load and any tricks you used?

I LOVE the .300 H&H, maybe my favorite No1. But I am struggling to get better than 2.5" two days in a row. I know that's minute-of-elk, but I can get cheap 55gr FMJ handloads in an off-brand AR-15 to beat that without even trying....

I try to use H4831 and 180gr flat base bullets in the H&H (somehow 180gr just seems right for elk)

any recommendations?

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You don't say what you've tried, but I'd suggest the standard list of Number 1 accuracy tricks regarding the forend, etc. Also a good barrel cleaning, if you bought it used.

I have to admit though, that a 7x57 I had way back when, had a kink somewhere I just couldn't figger out, so it went down the road.

The most effective method of improving accuracy thus far has been to buy Brownings, when I can find them, and can afford them.

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i have not yet tried floating the fore-end or sanding the back of it to avoid contact with the receiver. I'm not that good at woodworking or metal working and don't want to damage anything.

I typically find if I hold the fore-end tightly in my left hand, which rests on the front sandbag, it is better than resting the fore-end directly on the front bag, which is what I do with bolt actions.

I have messed with different bullets and seating depth and powder charge. I'd find a nice group of 3, declare victory, go home, load a bunch, and come back a month later and that same load is not very accurate...

I don't want to try 165's or 150's. The magnum should shoot 180's and Elk should turn into meat... I found 165's are more accurate than 180's in the .30-06 No1S (and other non-ruger '06's I have tried). And the loads seem to still be accurate the next time I try them.

thanks

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I am a few days late in posting about the second new Number 1...this one a 1S in 30-06. Like the 7-08, I think I am going to like this rifle also.. but it's certainly not perfect..My initial impressions follow.

The first thing that you'd notice is that the stock is decidedly plain and not as nicely finished as my older Number 1's. The stock color is much lighter than earlier older guns, not unattractive, but kind of disappointing if you are used to seeing No. 1's with really nice wood. Let's call it a good, solid, but unremarkable piece of walnut. Metal finish, like the stock, is not up to the standards of older guns... adequate by current standards, but the polish seen on older guns is just not there. I was unable to measure the trigger pull...it was off the scale... I am going to guess that it's a 6 lbs plus pull...and likely more. The heavy trigger made it hard to shoot well off the bench.

So now we come to the safety. I have seen three examples of this run of '06's in the 1S configuration and each one of them have had issues with the safety. Two, including mine, had safeties that were very hard to work. Getting the safety to work on mine was so hard that I actually thought it was defective. An evening moving the safety on and off produced a blister on my thumb and minor blood loss. Let's be kind, the safety required a bit of break in to work properly. Another 1S I looked at year ago had a safety that was so loose that it would spring froward at the merest touch. Not a safe condition. I am left with the impression that quality control in Newport, NH was not what it should have been.

Continued below.


Last edited by meddybemps; 07/15/17.

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Somehow, an hour's writing about shooting results just disappeared into the ether. I'll recreate it tomorrow.


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I have been to the range three times with the 1S. Results, while not spectacular, are very encouraging. I threw together some 180 grain loads that have proved accurate in other rifles. Powders were IMR 4451, H4350, Hunter and IMR 4007. Bullets were Hornady SP's and Nosler partitions.Cases were Winchester and primers were all Federal 210's. I made no attempt to tailor the loads to the rifle other than seating bullets 20 thousandths short of the lands. All powder charges were near or at max for the '06 and were taken from reliable sources. All were run through a Hornady concentricity gauge and all were within.002"

The bad news first; The rifle hates any of the loads with Hunter...Groups ran from 2.00"s to over 3.00"s. Let's ignore these for a moment.. the H4350 groups ran about 1.25", the IMR4007 groups were right at 1.50" and the IMR4451 loads were right at 1.25". So, without putting too fine a point on it, it seems the rifle is capable of 1.25 to 1.50" after a dozen or so groups. This is a small sample,so I wouldn't read too much into it. Spreading the targets out on the floor and looking at them, another pattern seems to emerge. Several of the groups have two shot touching with one shot hanging out... usually high or low...but definitely vertical. I think that fiddling with the bedding of the forend will most likely fix that.

Both guns, the 7-08 and the '06 are off to the gunsmith for recoil pads, trigger jobs, weather proofing and bedding work. That's going to be another $150 per gun to get them to where they should have been when they left the factory. I anticipate will both shoot a bit better when i get them back. If not, it's back to the Number 1 Rodeo. I am getting too old for this.

I'll keep you posted.
.


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Number 1's are very fickle. Some shoot pretty well, and others are minute-of-five-gallon-bucket. Good looking gun, but there are waaaaaaayy too many other rifles that shoot great all the time to bother with a "project" gun.


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meddybumps,

Quite often, in fact I would say more often than not, Hunter works much better with magnum primers. (So do Big Game and Magnum.)


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Thanks for the tip/reminder on the magnum primers.

I loaded up 20 rounds and switched from standard to a magnum primer...... the groups shrunk by 2/3's! I have never seen that much of an improvement with a change of primers. Getting just around an inch or a tad less with the magnum primers. with 180 grain Nosler Partitions. 58.5 grs. of Hunter is showing 2774 fps on the Magnetospeed. Pretty much the same accuracy and velocity with Hunter as 57.5 grs. of H4350.

I am off to Newfoundland next week. I won't have much time to fiddle with loads between now and then, but the load with Hunter may make the trip. I will be bringing a 30-06 Tikka as a backup rifle. Will be interesting to see how that load shoots out it.

I got both the 7-08 and the 1S 30-06 back from the gunsmith. Both triggers now break at a nice crisp 3.5 lbs. The forends have been rebedded and recoil pads added. Both rifles are shooting better now. Nothing definitive yet as I am still wringing them out on the range, but I am liking these two rifles more and more.


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Originally Posted by meddybemps
I just ran across a new 7-08 1A. Should I seal the deal? What's the experience out there on the newer Number 1's?


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Has anyone tried the Hicks #1 Accurizer?
I’m asking because I can not get my no1 338win mag to shoot a good group to save my life, it’s all over the place.
I had a Jard Trigger installed, I bought a 2.5 lb but after installing in measures at a consistent 1.5 lb.
I’ve tride 4 different bullets using Alliant 19. Nosler Partition 210gr, Nosler Accubond 225gr, & Hornady 225gr.
Would like to here some reviews before buying one.

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Originally Posted by HeavyLoad
Has anyone tried the Hicks #1 Accurizer?
I’m asking because I can not get my no1 338win mag to shoot a good group to save my life, it’s all over the place.
I had a Jard Trigger installed, I bought a 2.5 lb but after installing in measures at a consistent 1.5 lb.
I’ve tride 4 different bullets using Alliant 19. Nosler Partition 210gr, Nosler Accubond 225gr, & Hornady 225gr.
Would like to here some reviews before buying one.


Frankly, I would not waste my money on one.
And that opionion is based on shooting and tuning many No 1s and other similar single shots over the last 35 years.

The only thing the Hicks unit does is create a pressire point under the barrel. If your gun is shooting "all over the place" , then IMHO you have bigger problems than whether or not your barrel likes a pressure point.

Several things can cause such poor shooting-

1) Flinching. I owned a No 1S in .338 win mag 25 years ago. It was a BEAST to shoot from the bench. The short stiff No 1 buttstocks with their thru-bolts and brick like recoil pads absorb very little recoil. The kick like mules...Are you sure its not you?

2) Bad scope causing POI shifts. Change out the scope with a unit known ro be reliable on hard kicking guns.

3) Poor forend bedding. Make sure the three small bedding points on the forend hanger contact the stock properly and that the bedding point at the forend tip is solid with no side to side play. If there is- apply paste wax to the contact ateas on tge metalwork and afysr acori g and degreasing the stock bedding pounts- put a but of two part expoxy on them amd put the forend together as normal. BTW to make sure everything comes apart easily, do this in TWO parts. Do the forend hanger parts first only use a drip or two of expoxy on each contact point. Make sure any metal on the hanger or barrel that might have epoxy flow on to it gets paste waxed.

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To late already ordered one. I talked to my gunsmith about installing it and he said he’s done them before with good results.
Well I don’t believe I’m flinching that bad. Personally I don’t think it kicks that bad. Now my 375 kicks like a mule of the bench. And with the 1.5 lb trigger theirs not a lot of time for error.
The scope is a Leupold vxi3i 3.5x10 so I wouldn’t think it would be the scope.
As far as the forearm bedding I have no idea. I’ve never done any stock work like that.
If I understand you correctly you want to have contact points on the barrel and forearm? Not free floated?

Last edited by HeavyLoad; 11/05/17.
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My RSI shot cloverleafs at 80 yards last yr.
Just a 4x on it, woods rifle.
I took it all apart after season, and proly put the forend screw a little too snug.
Shot this summer w new factory ammo.........dang near 2" group (80 yards).
Took out today, both types of ammo..........set forend screw to 15 in lbs..........and they hit the same, about 3/4" groups.
Forend screw was tighter before.

I'm leaving it as is, seems to work.

Front bag only, at 50 yards it was putting shots into one ragged hole. But 80........my target wasn't the best (dot too small). Crosshairs covered it, so might not have been ideal.
3/4" is good enough for me. Esp when both types of ammo hit the same.

Might be bigger diff at 150 or so.
Thick enough 75 yards about as far as I can go in the spot I'm hunting.

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I've seen some bad #1's..............270 and .25-06 a buddy had. Nothing worked.
My old B in .243 was a half incher at 100 w handloads.
My dad's .22-250 did good with handloads.
My RSI surprised me w factory stuff.

If I buy any #1...........I assume it might need a new bbl. I purchased my RSI just to rebarrel it.
But the regs changed here, the factory chambering became legal for deer..........and it shoots decent.

So off to find somebody cussing a #1, to score it cheap and rebarrel to .35 rem wink

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Heavyload,

I installed a Hicks in one of my No. 1's and had excellent results.


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My 45-70 groups well. I bedded the hanger to the forearm.

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Nice target. What range and sights with the 45-70? I have a (Lord help me) .458 that thinks it's a target rifle.


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100 yards, Leupold 1-4x20.

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Currently three Number One's live in my gun safe. One rifle that was particularly problematic was a 257 Roberts #1B. Basically, went to " go to" load for the other Roberts here-a mistake. This mess was a no-brainer. The load was with IMR4350 and the 87gr, Sierra. Turns out the rifle had a throat so long if barely missed a freebore. Went to a 100 gr. bullet with IMR 4350 seated out short of the lands. Daylight and dark. Not too long ago made up loads with Varget and 117 Hornady bullets, Both combination worked very will. Will continue with the 100 gr+ bullets. The #1H 375 H&H and the #1 A in 30-06 also do well. All three are, to some degree, finicky but do very well with appropriate loads. Did finally get some decent groups with the 87gr, Sierra. The bullet appeared to be seated in the case an eighth inch. These rifles are unmodified. There's no way that #1B is a dual purpose rifle. These are not bench rest rifles. YMMV

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Originally Posted by HeavyLoad
Has anyone tried the Hicks #1 Accurizer?
I’m asking because I can not get my no1 338win mag to shoot a good group to save my life, it’s all over the place.
I had a Jard Trigger installed, I bought a 2.5 lb but after installing in measures at a consistent 1.5 lb.
I’ve tride 4 different bullets using Alliant 19. Nosler Partition 210gr, Nosler Accubond 225gr, & Hornady 225gr.
Would like to here some reviews before buying one.


I had four of them. Tried Hicks and various other accurizing devices and efforts.
None of them ever shot sub 1” and they were all .22 cal cartridges.
I won’t waste more money on them.


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Originally Posted by 5shot
My 45-70 groups well. I bedded the hanger to the forearm.

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can someone outline this process......especially with pictures.


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"Both guns, the 7-08 and the '06 are off to the gunsmith for recoil pads, trigger jobs, weather proofing and bedding work."

I can't say on the newer black pad #1's but I have 20 red pad guns plus a few M77s and not one damn one of those rifles has the interior wood sealed. I learned this the hard way. I have a very accurate #1B in .300 Win. Mag. that will put three 200 gr. Speer Hot Cores into a .375" group consistently. I got caught in a very heavy rain shower on an elk hunt in Oregon with it and it soaked up a lot of water. I'm surprised the butt stock didn't split as it swelled up badly. Never saw a legal elk. A few days after the hunt I got several shots at a coyote and never got a hit. None of my buddies could even see where the bullet struck. About a week later I took it to the range and the bullets were hitting just at the top edge of the berm, call it about six feet high. I stored that rifle out in my shed and took it out once a year to see when it shot. At six years after the soaking it was pretty close to where it should have been shooting. I pulled the forearm and butt stock off and removed the pad. There was no sign that the wood had ever been sealed. Just the stain Ruger used to color the wood. I checked out a few other of my #1's and the 77's and none of themshow any sign of ever having been sealed. Just something you might want to check out.
Paul B.


Our forefathers did not politely protest the British.They did not vote them out of office, nor did they impeach the king,march on the capitol or ask permission for their rights. ----------------They just shot them.
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It's not exactly 'stock'......................


"...A man's rights rest in three boxes: the ballot box, the jury box and the cartridge box..." Frederick Douglass, 1867

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In 35 years of owning Ruger no1 akgnd No 3 Rifles and comparing them directly to many other single shots and bolt guns- I feel they are no more dificult to tune and load for that most other guns. And easier than some.

After seeing a few people on the internet whine about how they shoot,I feel the Rugers (both bolt and singleshot) are basically an I.Q. test for a the average rifleman.

If loading for and/or tuning the bedding a Ruger rifle defeats you, then you are truly a pretty sad excuse for a rifleman.

I see the same posts by the same people here over and over and it amuses me.

They should stick to bird hunting and leave riflery to the adults.


Last edited by jk16; 02/13/18.
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