Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Gunsmithing Win Mod 12 refinish, suggestions?

I acquired a Model 12 from a friend a couple of years back, a bit of a beater to put it mildly. Full choke bbl, pitting, darkened (oil soaked?) wood. Slide etc. still functions, haven't fired it yet. Pictures (sorry for the crappy phone pics) below:




Receiver pic shows typical pitting on gun, bore looks OK though.



I've already got an 870 Wingmaster with Trap bbl and a 26" interchangeable choke bbl, and a 20g 870 Express so I'm not interested in doing loads of work to replace those. They meet my shotgunning needs mostly (I do "need" a SXS though ).

This gun will just be a project for the winter.

My thoughts:

NOT a restoration! Possible turkey gun? Camp gun? Slug gun?

Refinish metal in something relatively rust proof. Prefer not to send it out, just do it myself. Duracoat? Krylon?

Strip and refinish wood. Brownell's stuff? Hardware store boiled linseed oil? Spar varnish type stuff? Sand and Krylon rattle can a contrasting color to metalwork?

Options:

Have bbl threaded for choke tubes? cost?

Have bbl bored to modified or similar for more versatility (Steel duck loads?)

New or used replacement bbl?

Or take the easiest route, test fire, oil up the metal and go shooting?

So, has anyone used the Duracoat on a project like this. I'm leaning toward trying it. I'm not going to try to fully remove all the pitting for a nice smooth finish, so will that stuff cover it if the metal is just lightly polished up?

This thing cost me a whole $50 and I'm not going to spend a lot on it. If I wanted to do that, I'd get a reasonably priced Mossberg or another 870.

Thanks in advance for any help/ideas.

Thanks,
Geno

Pack the wood in whiting and leave it in a warm place for a while. Wipe it off and repeat for as long as it takes to get the oil out.

Boiled linseed oil is total garbage!!! Do not ever use it on any good firearm.

Sandpaper will do far more harm than good...

Quickie solution for the wood would be a simple application of Formby's Furniture Refinisher. It is not to remove the finish, but rather just to move the old finish around. It is not going to give you a perfect finish, but it will improve it and give you a base to apply some good curing oil for looks.

Spar varnish will be harder to work with and will look like a plastic wrapped stock.

Krylon matte black would be the easiest way to fix the metal...

Installing choke tubes is relatively cheap and makes the gun much more versatile. The model 12s have steel strong enough to shoot steel shot... but I would not shoot larger shot through it as a full choke. Taking some of the choke out is even cheaper than tubes.

I agree with Mr. Art.

That model70man is worth listening to!

That was quick,

Thanks Sitka, much appreciated.

Whiting: I know I've heard about it somewhere in my 5+ decades of life, but for the life of me I have no idea where to pick some up. I'm heading into town today and wonder is this stuff available in local hardware stores such as True Value or Ace? Do I have to find a specialty wood working shop?

Linseed oil: I just happen to have some around for yard tool handles, I was thinking it a cheap alternative to tung or specialty finishes for a beater shotgun. Thanks for the warning.

Sandpaper: same as above, thanks.

Furniture refinisher: I'll check for that in a couple of places today, had never heard of this fix.

Spar Varnish: I figured it would be a bit "glossy" for my purposes but thought I'd ask.

Krylon: Well, that's an easy one, I know where to get it if I don't happen to have a can already hanging around.

Choke tubes/bbl fix: Thanks for the info on that stuff too. I was thinking the same thing about larger shot in that type of constriction. I'll check around here and online for who might do the work if I decide to go that route.

Again, very thankful for the quick informative reply.

Geno

Whiting is available in decent paint stores, should be at bigger hardware stores. Formby's Furniture Refinisher may be harder to locate.

If I can't find them locally I'll find them online.

Everything's available on the internet, right?

Thanks again,

Geno

You've got $50 in it you say, and it's running fine. Would do like Art described. Meanwhile break it down, clean, soak breach block in whatever you like, lube. I just love old patina like you've got there; it'd be criminal to cover it up and would look worse to do so, not better, IMO. Eezox or whatever rust prevent you like and rock on. It's not going to rust away.

Sure you could put tubes in it if want flexibility between turkey/rifled/open chokes. But if that's not a high priority, and rather just wanted a solid classic 12ga, if was me I'd have it opened to say Mod (or IC) and soldier on. If want to be fancy lengthen the forcing cone. But hell for $150 or whatever all-in I'd clean it up, open it to Mod, and enjoy that classic for what it is, smiling, and never look back.

p.s. speaking of online options, Carlson's does pretty reasonable choke work. Local smith choke work can be pretty hit or miss, just be aware.

I'm with sandcritter as I have a handful of M-12's in similar condition and they work great and you don't have to pamper them and worry about aquiring extra scratches.

I would leave the current choke alone. The money spent on tubes or reaming will buy a lot of spreader loads that greatly expand the flexibility of tightly choked guns. (Or one heckuva pile of spreader appliances to insert into the shot charges if you handload shotgun cartridges.)

To clean up the wood, try this:Get a disposable aluminum roaster pan at the supermarket that is large enough for the
stock. Stop by your Home Depot or whatever and get a gallon of acetone and a
gallon of alcohol. If the stock has a plastic finish you might want a can of
some paste stripper too. Use that first if the outside finish requires it. If
the stock has a varnish or oil finish the acetone will lift that with no
problem. Then toss the stock in the roaster and pour in the acetone (it will
also neutralize the paste stripper). Cover the wood until it floats. Then pull
off a good length of aluminum foil and make a cover for the "tank", sealing it
as well as possible. Be aware that acetone is highly volatile and smoking the
cigar over the top of it is not recommended. Let the things soak for several
days, turning the wood over a couple times a day. When you feel like you're
tired of that, and the acetone looks like it has quit changing color, pour the
acetone back in the can, rinse the roaster out with alcohol, and then soak the
stock in the alcohol just like you did in the acetone. When you yank the baby
out of the alcohol bath it will be CLEAN! And you can seal it and refinish it
anyway you want after you let it dry a couple days.

RAN

Not trying to hijack the OP but Sitka Deer could you elaborate on the whiting process? I have a 721 stock that I am refurbishing and it has been sitting in my safe for about a month now since I stripped and sanded it. There is now oil stains showing and I would like to get as much out as possible before I put my finish on it.

Do I just pack whiting around the action? Thanks!

One of the nastiest options of all times... acetone is very bad stuff for your liver and other organs. Your suggestion is ridiculously naive...

No, take the wood off the action and pack the oil-soaked areas with whiting. To increase the speed you can make a paste with the previously mentioned acetone and pack it on the oily areas, wrap with aluminum foil and put in a warm WELL-VENTILATED place, preferably outside for a few days.

Repeat as many times as needed/desired.

Thanks I'll give it a try with the whiting.

Mike

The barrel is too thin to put screw in chokes in it, most smithes wont do it. I seen one done and you could see the outline of the threads on the out side of the barrel. thats why they put poly chokes on them. have it opened to modified or imp cylinder if you don't like the full choke.( mdl 12 only)