Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Rimfires 10-22, a bit different

Because it looks all so cool!.
Actually I have no problems with them but I don't see a need for them myself. I guess if I were into rapid fire for groups I could see a use.

I've wondered if a directional brake would hurt pure accuacy.
By the same token, I've wondered if a greater volume of "exhaust gasses" at the moment of separation from an imperfect barrel crown would cause greater upset than a modest amount of gas would from the same crown. Seems logical, and if its true I assume that the advantages of a short barrel (which would have the least time to equalize gas pressure) typically mask any small amount of deviation from something like that.
I'm assume that a brake with an equal radial pattern would have no noticeable negative affect on accuracy.

Notice all the times I used the words wondered and assume. I'm no expert, I'm just thinking out loud here.

The brake on the Volquartsen posted earlier is there because it came that way...

It surely doesn't hurt accuracy; that gun is a tack driver.

I can't say from my experience just what it does...

If I woke up one morning with that question on my mind, I'll call Volquartsen and ask them why they put that brake on my gun...

"Looks cool" as posted earlier seems like a cool enough answer...

Edited to add a link to the bedding on the Ruger with the can.

https://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/11650071/1

DF

well i just secured a 16 1/2" GM sporter barrel for my action. now to find the stock.

Many suggest one without a barrel band

I too am of that thought. However if a guy wanted to build a sleeper, all one needs to do is open up the hole in the barrel band so you don't get the contact and resulting barrel performance interference. But I just don't care for the carbine stock looks.

I got a beater '67 standard.
It shoots like crap.
Reason?
Maybe something to do with the stock (Overton)...hollowed under bbl except for a couple inches at the front.
When I refinished the stock, noticed the bbl band was a bear to get on.
Didn't really pay much attention past that.
Should have.

It had a tremendous amount of pressure on the bbl (w action screw torqued to 20 in lbs).
I got socket and some 400 paper and worked it down a bunch.
Now bbl band goes on and tightens OK (less gap too).
Bbl w band off, can shove an index card past tip area (drags). Past tip sides are not touching.
Gonna shoot it this week and see how it does. Might remove more from the front channel.

Band on first, band off next. Mod wood as needed.

The amount of bbl above the wood at tip...........looked like it never was done to proper depth at factory LOL.

Cleaned up pretty decent. Hope it behaves.
[img]http://imgur.com/yOQn2K9[/img]

Yeah it aint great, but this why I'm trying to keep the barrel band/stock
[img]http://i.imgur.com/y4wF0kK.jpg?1[/img]

Hookeye,

Nice job refinishing and I love those older 10-22's with real walnut.

If your current method doesn't work out, check the link I posted on glassing the 10-22. Mine was a heavy barrel, but I think that method will work with the std. bbl.

If the barrel is glassed in the forearm, pulled down by the action screw, the barrel band shouldn't be a player, or much of one.

DF

Thanks. Lots of the older ones were rather bland. This one isn't fancy, but in context it's decent.
I was wanting to get an aftermarket stock and GM heavy taper bbl (19")..............but the regular look has grown on me (I got a new one, walnut, back in '72 for my birthday, think pops paid around $50 for it then).

It shot decent.

This one doesn't, well in orig form anyway. Hopefully the mods help.
Kidd buffer and Volq hammer all I've done. Poor stock fit the major player I think, bbl could be a turd too, dunno yet.

I came across an Anschutz 184 and it shoots pretty good, so gone are the plans of making the 10/22 into a tack driver.
No fancy stock or bbl..............just try to get it to look stock and shoot better.

Still think that walnut sporter pic ahead in thread the best aftermarket stock I've seen for a 10/22.

May want to try an OEM barrel from Ebay.

During certain periods, Ruger barrels were hit or miss.

Another factory barrel may work OK; these could be late production, which would be good.

You could probably recover cost or close to what you paid if you changed your mind.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ruger-10-22-factory-Barrel-18-5-Barrel-/112426764696

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ruger-10-22-Semi-Auto-Rifle-Barrel-22-LR-/361991046935

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ruger-10-22-FDE-Duracoated-18-5-rifle-barrel-GUC-/112429208626

DF

It's a pre warning gun. Trying to keep it that way (there is a pre warning bbl on ebay with no sights for reasonable).
May not get to range til weekend.
Still haven't put a front sight on the Davidson's "Great Eight" mk2 22/45 I picked up.
If it shoots good proly get a newer style frame for it.
Guy before had some fiber optic aftermarket deal. I took that off before it left the shop!
Proly run it with a 2 or 2.5X scope.

Not many of these out there, but I've had this one a couple of years. It is a distributor exclusive. The barrel is a 20" mid-weight with a target chamber. The trigger is the same as the target model.

http://ruger.com/products/1022Sporter/specSheets/1237.html



I've since replaced the scope with a VX-2 with dials and have figured out the settings out to 200 yards. It shoots MOA easily at 50 and 100 yards. At 200 the wind has to be dead calm, but I've gotten some 2" groups. That is with CCI Mini mags. It'll shoot standard velocity ammo a little better, but I haven't figured out the scope settings with it at 200 yards. It its 4-5" low at 100 compared to the CCI and is barely on paper. I'm gonna have to twist the dials quite a bit more at 200 just to get on paper.