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I'm getting ready to buy a Marlin guide gun. I've already got my dies and everything I need to reload for a .45-70. I've never reloaded for a cartridge I've had to crimp before, so this is new to me. How do you know how to adjust the seating/crimping die?

I followed the RCBS directions, got the bullet seated to the right depth, then lowered the cartridge and unscrewed the seating plug and lowered the seating die 1/8 turn, then crimped the bullet. I put the unprimed, uncharged cartridge in a bullet puller and tapped the ground. The bullet moved maybe an 1/8". I repeated, screwing the seating die down on more 1/8 turn. Then did the thing with the bullet mover again, and again the bullet moved.

There is no groove cut in the cannelure - should there be? Do I need to crimp until the bullet won't budge when put in a bullet puller like I did and tapped it?

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* Which bullet are you using? You say no "groove cut" in the cannelure. IMHO, a cannelure IS a groove cut. I've never loaded a .457/.458 bullet for my 45-70 that didn't have a cannelure or crimp groove (lead bullets).

* I think you correctly are separating seating and crimping. Doing both together can buckle cases, etc.


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I'm using Sierra 300 grn hollow points. I'm crimping on the cannelure, but then when I pull the bullet the mouth of the brass didn't leave a groove, or cut, in the cannelure. Should it?

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How hard are you tapping that bullet puller? An inertial bullet puller will get the bullets out of milsurp 308 ammo that is crimped and has a tar type sealant in the case neck if you give it a smart rap on a solid surface.

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Not too hard, maybe raising it 8-12" then hitting a wood board with a sharp rap. I've pulled bullets from 30-06 cartridges that weren't crimped that I had to work harder to get out.

I can see that the mouth of the case is slightly angled inward, but how to know if it's enough? I don't plan on shooting real stout loads, at least not at first.

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I didn't want to go through the hassle of resetting my seating die all the time, so I bought a Lee Factory Crimp die. It works great . . . and leaves a better looking crimp than any factory loaded ammo I've seen! Take care, Clint

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What diameter is your expander? You may need a smaller one since the brass may not be squeezing the bullets hard enough.

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I'm using Sierra 300 grn hollow points. I'm crimping on the cannelure, but then when I pull the bullet the mouth of the brass didn't leave a groove, or cut, in the cannelure. Should it?

No,you don't want the crimp to deform or cut the bullet/groove or cannelure in any way. It just needs to be tight enough to hold the bullet securely under recoil. If you're crimping into a groove/cannelure,it doesn't take a real heavy crimp. I crimp just tightly enough that looking at the nose of the bullet,I can't see any of the rim of the case in the cannelure. A good easy test is to push the seated crimped bullet against your bathroom scale. If the bullet doesn't move at 60 lbs of pressure you should be good to go. Load your magazine and as you fire each round,unload and measure case overall length with your calipers if you want to be certain the bullets aren't setting back,though its pretty eay to tell by looking at any exposed cannelure. I go with a little heavier crimp than necessary to get a little better powder ignition.
And get a Lee Factory crimp die,its the only way to go. And cheap!
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Yes, if a jacketed bullet, the Lee FCD is the way to go IMO. With lead bullets, the standard roll crimp (which should be what your seating die provides) is just fine.

Don't rap with a bullet puller. Simply measure with calipers when you think you're done, they press the nose of the bullet (completed round) against your reloading bench. Nothing too extreme....just firm pressure. Check to see if there's setback. (Shouldn't be.) If I don't see setback, I assume I'm good to go. YMMV


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Lee FCD...........

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THe case mouth shold be crimped into the cannelure enough so that it stops any rearward bullet movement. A light crimp will do it, but a hevier crimp won't hurt. The secret is to have all the same.


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What concerned me is that the instructions that came with the RCBS dies say that too heavy of a crimp can damage the case.

I have a question about the Lee Crimping Dies. I looked them up in Cabela's and the description says ""the carbide sizer sizes the cartridge while it's being crimped". I don't understand why I would want the cartridge to be sized after I have already sized it, expanded it, and seated the bullet.

Would I use that for a separate step after seating the bullet? Will a Lee die fit in a RCBS press?

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Yes, the Lee will fit a RCBS.

I supose a person could screw the die down too tight to damage the ase, but you figure someon ewho reloads has to have some mechanical aptitide


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What concerned me is that the instructions that came with the RCBS dies say that too heavy of a crimp can damage the case.

I have a question about the Lee Crimping Dies. I looked them up in Cabela's and the description says ""the carbide sizer sizes the cartridge while it's being crimped". I don't understand why I would want the cartridge to be sized after I have already sized it, expanded it, and seated the bullet.

Would I use that for a separate step after seating the bullet? Will a Lee die fit in a RCBS press?

That is bogus information about the Lee Factory Crimp Die on the Cabelas website. Look at these descriptions and there is nothing about sizing:
http://www.leeprecision.com/html/catalog/dies-crimp.html
http://www.leeprecision.com/cgi/faq/index.cgi Go to Dies and die questions, then Factory crimp die adjustments and Factory crimp die advantages.


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OK, thanks. Now I realize that Lee makes a Tapered Crimp Die which I think might be the one in Cabela's, which is different than the Factory Crimp Die.

So let me get this straight. If I get the Factory Crimp Die then after I seat the bullet I run it through that, and I don't ever have to adjust it for different bullets?

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Yep, you might have to adjust for differnt bullets, and you might have to adjust for different case length. Differnt mfgr's vary some what. Both on casel ength and exactly where they put the cannelure or crimp groove. With crimped cases it is always best to trim everything you got to the same length


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What concerned me is that the instructions that came with the RCBS dies say that too heavy of a crimp can damage the case.

I have a question about the Lee Crimping Dies. I looked them up in Cabela's and the description says ""the carbide sizer sizes the cartridge while it's being crimped". I don't understand why I would want the cartridge to be sized after I have already sized it, expanded it, and seated the bullet.

Would I use that for a separate step after seating the bullet? Will a Lee die fit in a RCBS press?

That is bogus information about the Lee Factory Crimp Die on the Cabelas website. Look at these descriptions and there is nothing about sizing:
http://www.leeprecision.com/html/catalog/dies-crimp.html
http://www.leeprecision.com/cgi/faq/index.cgi Go to Dies and die questions, then Factory crimp die adjustments and Factory crimp die advantages.


That information is totally true of the Lee Carbide factory PISTOL crimp dies........The rifle crimp dies are totally different............

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The Lee factory crimp dies are the very best for consistent crimping. The rifle FCD's have a collet - sort of like many small fingers pressing at 90 degrees, so the crimp is exceptionally consistent. Yes, when you have primed, charged,and seated the bullet, the Lee FCD is another added step. However, especially with the magazine tube and the pressure it puts on the bullets, a VERY well executed, necessary step. The rifle dies do not have the carbide sizer like the pistol dies. I use Lee FCD's for most all rounds I intend to crimp. There simply is not a better tool for the job, IMHO.


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The Lee FCD is the way to go with any straight-walled rifle case. It gives a very consistent crimp. I also use the FCD on my .223 reloads that are to be used in semiautomatic carbines and it works well in the application as well.


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A nice roll crimp for the 45/70 done at the same time as bullet seating is easy to do if you take the time to set up your dies.Make sure your cases are all the same length and their mouths are square.Line up the bullets to be seated on your bench and check to make sure all the cannelures are at the same level.From time to time cannelures will wander around out of the same box.Seat bullet to desired depth without crimping so that case mouth is right at the upper edge but not past the cannelure.Back off seater plug and set die so that crimp rolls nicely into cannelure.Think 44 magnum with a lead bullet here and you have the picture. .This may take a few tries to get it where you want it.Raise case back into die and screw seater plug until it contacts bullet with slight pressure.Lower ram and screw seater plug IN another 1/4 turn.Adjusting the crimp is the issue here so don't worry if the bullet is off a few thou as that is the final step.Works just dandy in my Marlin 1895SS 45/70.


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