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Should'a looked this up a week ago... Some good practices.

I don't know when or how they're doing it but a Pachmayr Decelerator Old English pad will compress when clamped and sometimes stay dimpled looking when the pressure is let off, no heat required. The fix is exactly as pictured. It also takes just the pin prick to shove a lubed screw thru there too, if one's into screwing rather than gluing. At olden day KoO there were many many trials to go with a screwed-on pad on the 89s. Just never would result in everything lined up 100% perfectly flush while 100% gap free on the end product. It took literally dozens of trials to show management, and a picky guy in the final assembly area, initials DC, that it was not a Machine Sanding - Hardware Department flaw. The trouble that spurred the testing was the taping required and the resultant lines or edges that can result using the spray-on finish, a 2k automotive clearcoat.

I was fairly satisfied with the pad on my Montana, it was perfectly shaped but with the plastic base just a hair uniformly undersize of the composite - real good tolerances, si muy bueno. I sanded my composite/paint down to match the plastic of the buttplate so I could tape off and paint to the rubber and not have a recessed band between the composite and the rubber, nor a ridge at the edge of the composite. The pads on wood stocks are, I surmise, still glued on then carved down in-place, ala machine sander, likely having finish over the plastic base, not like the Montana where the hard base is finish free.

There's several things about these rifles I did not realize, one is the great trigger. It adjusted down and performs perfectly satisfactorily. Glad this thread got back up.
Originally Posted by Brad
Couple more photos of two "preflight" items...
...
When Kimber assembles the Montana stocks, they're apparently (sometimes) adding the pads while the stock is still curing and producing heat. This sucks the air out of the recoil pad and "dimples" it. To make the dimples vanish, puncture the dimples with a heavy pin. Over time the pad will find its original shape. I haven't seen this problem in a while, but a lot of the older MT's had this issue.

[Linked Image]


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Thanks!

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Great info in this thread.
Gives me another fun project.
Thanks.

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Wow Brad!
Very nice work. I need to 'tag' this thread, for certain. cool


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An excellent job preparing a rifle for "no excuses" use. While I feel woefully unqualified to critique it, I am a tad surprised that in the original list of tweaks there is not:

5.5 Apply fingernail polish to trigger adjusting screws.

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Originally Posted by utah708
An excellent job preparing a rifle for "no excuses" use. While I feel woefully unqualified to critique it, I am a tad surprised that in the original list of tweaks there is not:

5.5 Apply fingernail polish to trigger adjusting screws.


Yeah, when I said 5). Adjust Trigger to 2.5 - 3lbs (MT's I like 2.5lbs) I forgot to add that I always re-seal the adjustment screws with nail polish.

Good catch!


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Just read this.
Thanks Brad!



“Perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away”.
Antoine de Saint-Exupery. Posted by Brad.
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Folks, remember to be especially careful when drilling out the head of your cross-threaded rear takedown screw so you don't nick the trigger guard. wink


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Tagged.


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Originally Posted by Brad
If Montana had a standing army, a 270 Win with Federal Blue Box 130's would be the standard issue.
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Great thread! Im going to be going through this one a few times while I get ready to bed my Mountain Ascent. I see photo bucket has screwed up the pictures though. Any chance of getting them back up for us?

Thanks for the post.

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Bumping this up as well - any chance there are updated pics out there since photobucket messed them up?

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This is an old thread but I found something on a new Kimber Hunter 6.5CM that I picked up on Black Friday. When I removed the stock I noticed the front action screw left a small mark on the bottom of the barrel shank. (Threaded hole goes clear through receiver and barrel shank can be seen through hole). Anyway, I filed .010" off the bolt and now it no longer touches. Last time out I had a couple groups well under 1" (best 3 shot group was .6). Not sure if it was the bolt or loads I'm working on, but if a long screw on a scope ring can cause havoc - I would have to believe a stock bolt could do the same. If you are having trouble with your Kimber, give it a look.

FWIW: Smoking the end of the bolt with soot is an easy way to see if it is touching. I like to light the end of a piece of masking tape on fire and use the soot. (Also makes awesome sight black).


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After setting mine aside for a long while, upon a fresh start, I found my feeding issues to be confounded by a gloob of resin in the stock's mag well that caused the mag box to tilt on reassembly. No amount of dinking with the lips of the box was going to fix that. Once cleaned out, careful work with a new box and follower got her working good. Especially pleased how slick the ejector catches the cartridge on the forward move. Great little rifle.


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This should be a sticky. A lot of the same info can be used on the model 70 as well.


Originally Posted by raybass
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style.
Originally Posted by Pharmseller
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There's much to be said,for Starting At The Fhuqking Start...no matter the Make or Model

Hint..............


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