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Joined: Aug 2013
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I need help with a custom rifle I purchased. There is a lever to open the floorplate that operates at a far softer touch than I'd prefer, especially when the magazine is full and the spring is compressed- potentially discharging the contents of the magazine at an inconvenient time. I am looking for a solution (other than duct tape) for keeping the floorplate closed when in the field. I cannot replace the floorplate and trigger guard as they appear to be a custom unit, with the rear of the trigger guard extending well into the palm of the grip. Any helpful references or pointing in the direction of a smith who might be able to add some sort of safety button or screw would be appreciated.

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Looks like you could remove the tab inside the floor plate that the lever actuates and add a little metal to it or have some one mak a new one so it engages further


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I have set spring loaded ball bearings through the floor plate to "click" past so those old fashioned levers will stay shut. You make a small cylinder with a ball and spring that can go through the plate with only the ball sticking up. The lever "clicks" either into or over the ball and stays put. Easy to make and they work well The cylinder protrudes into the b\mag box a bit so it must be short enough to clear the magazine spring, but you'll find that you have about .220" to .250" to work with and it's just fine About 1/8 is used inside the plate itself and what ever sticks up clears the spring because of the shape of the mag spring itself and the small recess within the plate on the inside. I know of a few done that way that did cause the magazine to loose one round of capacity, but the owners thought 4 round that were 100% reliable were better then 5 rounds that sometimes go "bomb-away".
Depending on your caliber, some Mausers have a bit of "give" with 5 rounds in the mag and some caliber fill the mag 100%. Those that give a bit of space can be made to work with no problems, but those that fill the mag up close to being "tight" with 5 rounds will probably cost you one round of capacity to make this modification.

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My first thought was the same as shizn's. Use a ball plunger to create an interference fit. Google "ball plunger" to see the different styles. InternetGuru, can you take some detailed photos of the latch and how is locks on the inside? More pictures would help.


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A judicious tap with a small hammer in the right location will tighten it up based on where the engagement is. Adding a tiny dimple if none exists on the engagement side will add resistance.


All to fix a problem that should never have been made in the first place...


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