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24 yrs infantry, used all the milspec stuff always readily available, never gave thought to cost honestly. Used clp all over the planet, used lSA in winter at fort carson and training in germany and norway, used LSA in korea in winter, used light coat clp in morroco, used graphite in desert storm with light clp, used clp in oif 1, used vasaline in panama on exterior and clp inside, never had issues keeping a weapon up and running, 10 to 15 min basic wipe down exterior with barber brush and feild cleaning with kit. Basically milspec stuff depending on climate. Been surfing all the crazy conoctions on the web, basically anything from motor oil to vagisil (of all things) bug juice, red juice, ect ect ect, got my ar about 4 months ago, been using CLP and used hoppes bench rest for copper every 300 rds . I keep my weapon clean, i dont subscribe to the run it till it fails or see what breaks then clean it club, cause it will give me "bragging rights" that i shot 4753 rds before my extractor broke and also discoved cracks in my bolt and carrier... gee ya think not cleaning it put mechanical and pressure stress into it at all........ anyways i retired in 2008 i have put 453 rds thru my weapon so far and have an issue with new age CLP/Breakfree, the shyt just evaporatesin storagre and burns off in firing to fuqqing fast, definately not the old school formula with all the money shot teflon and chem additives you had to shake up from the bottom. Im talking like 2 to 3 days in the case and the lube is not wet ,still in a film but not wet. I like to dry fire for 5 to 10 minutes daily so the evaporation rate is noticable. so i purchased 2 4oz bottles of CLP , 1 4 oz bottle of LP, 1 4oz bottle of regular hoppes #9 and 2 1oz bottles of lucas extreme duty gun oil (blue green color) so i mixed up 18 oz of a homebrew clp last wensday. The stuff is still wet , not migrating and holding well on everything so far, im gonna out and shoot tommorow probably around 150 rounds and see how the homebrew works. Spent just under 30 bucks. 18 0z will last awhile i imagine. AR,s will run properly on just about any lube as long as you take care of em a little bit each day when in use. Now some of ya,ll can come out and hammer me for my opinon.....

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Renegade..I also read about every conceivable magic oil out there for AR's. Some are quite expensive to say the least. A few guys who I know shoot a bit said Mobil 1 and save your money. As I use it in my vehicles it's always around and cheap. I soak things pretty good after cleaning and it seems to work great. Maybe there's something "better" but I'm happy.


She never made it past the bedroom door, what was she aiming for...?
She's gone shootin..
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I have no problem with home brew as long as you are using compatible products. I have mixed and used Ed's Red in the past for general cleaning and it works fine. Anymore, the savings aren't worth the hassle and I just buy what I have found works.

Mobil One is fine for a lube but it is no cleaner.

P.S. Your post would be much easier to read if you broke it into paragraphs instead of one long run-on sentence.



Let's Go Brandon! FJB
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NV, to clarify, yes I meant only for a lube


She never made it past the bedroom door, what was she aiming for...?
She's gone shootin..
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Hahaha! Aint the 1st or last time about the run on sentance thing. Thank you english nazi guy. Jk hahaha!!!

IC B2

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They will run on just about any lube and keep em semi clean in good working order. I totally agree. I find myself looking at shell rotella in 15w40 at wally world now, i find myself looking at mobile 1 synthetic and wondering if it is european formulated. Fuqqing shyt i would never have giving a thought too beforr looking at all the stuff that is out their and what people use
Too much damm info on this that and the other on the internet . That it makes you contemplate this shyt way too much....
Hahaha!!!

Last edited by renegade50; 06/27/17.
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whale oil is your huckleberry grin


"...the designer of the .270 Ingwe cartridge!..."

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That is on the internet also, some guy made a post saying he had access to some from an old relative. Go figure... always could render down jeff o , but their aint no way i would taint my weapon with "liberal lube"

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Breakfree CLP works for me. No reason to change.


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It’s much less important what you lube with; more that you just lubricate. None of us are going off on a 6 month deployment with our AR’s tomorrow, so most any lubricant will do. Mobil one, or a simple non-detergent motor oil (or use detergent as long as you’re cleaning your rifle sometime in the next 6-8 months). The Teflon in CLP gives it a little edge in real extreme conditions and part of the reason the military uses it; it tends to work well in most places in the world. But for us here in the US just going out for a range day, just use a decent motor oil and you’ll be in pretty good shape unless you’re planning on going through a couple of cases of ammo in an afternoon…then it may be time to get a little more high tech…and it would be a good idea to stop and re-lube from time to time under such conditions. But I’m betting you have a very good handle on how much and how often for lubrication.

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As long as it stays on the parts that need it, it'll work.

I've been using Machine gunners lube from Springco for several years now and it works as well as anything I've seen so far.

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I have so much of the old CLP I may never run out at this rate.

BUt in a pinch, its whatever synthetic I've in the engine block at the time. Might have been known to pull the dipstick for a drop or two in a pinch.


We can keep Larry Root and all his idiotic blabber and user names on here, but we can't get Ralph back..... Whiskey Tango Foxtrot, over....
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Why i stuck with breakfree clp and breakfree lp as the major portion of my mixture, it works great as suspension for carbon and cleaner, added the lucas oil for its supposed heat properties and resistance to drying up, added the # 9 for more cleaner affect and to help offset the thickness from the lp and lucas oil, seems to be working and not evaporating or migrating so far, gonna shoot some slow fire tommorow, then some aimed doubles and bumpfire a 30 off the shoulder in 5- 7 rd burst. Then bust it down check it out, oil down the bolt and carrier , drop some oil down the barrel while warm and snake it twice. Then put some oil in the chamber , rotate it along the lenght of its axis, work the bolt about a dozen times , case it up and drive home , let the home brew clp work a little while and clean it good at home, i will see the results of this clp right after done firing, then how it loosens up crud from oiling down before i leave and clean it at the house, i enjoy cleaning my guns anyways, always have.

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One thing i aint done is scrub some of the korean run surplus stores here around ft campbell for some old school moneyshot shake up brakefree . If any is to be found , them old scrubby ahjama ex korean whores that married a soldier back in the day would have some. And ask top dollar for it too even though aint noone asked for some in years...cant hurt to look around might get lucky and find some at a decent price.

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Springco machine gunners lube.... google on the way.

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For straight lubrication, Mobil 1 is your friend (or most any of the straight synthetic motor oils).

MM

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Originally Posted by renegade50
I find myself looking at shell rotella in 15w40 at wally world now,


Don't use Rotella T or any other detergent oil. It lubricates just fine, but the detergents make it worse for corrosion resistance than bare/dry steel.

Feel free to repeat my test if that doesn't sound right. I cleaned and then bead blasted a piece of steel to test, and dabbed a bit of each oil I wanted to test in different areas, leaving one spot clean. (avoid fingerprints too) Then just leave it outside for a few weeks; maybe water it with the hose if it's not raining. When I did this, the clean spot on the steel had some mild surface rust, but the Rotella T 15W40 spot had several deep pits. Kroil also was worthless for rust prevention, same for Hoppes #9 of course. Most of the gun oils and even WD40 did a pretty good job preventing rust. I did not test Mobil 1 though; need to do that since I use it in the car anyway.

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Seen test like you mention on the internet, pretty interesting, clp by itself actually performed well. The shell rotella thing is something i found myself looking at in walmart cause it tripped a word picture in my mind from all the chit i been reading.. the homebrew i worked up should work well just gotta get out and shoot tomorrow and look for the results of it

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I've never bought into the clean, lube and protect in one idea. Most cleaners break down oil that lubes so it just doesn't add up in my mind.

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TWR, I agree with that as well. There are a number of products that do two of those things well, but I don't know of anything that does all three well. I also don't know why the average user should need such a product; it's not that hard to have cleaning solvent separate from your gun oil, heck most of us have way more varieties of both than we'll ever need.

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