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powdr Offline OP
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I am interested in a light weight .338 barrel. Who makes the lightest that will still shoot? powdr

Last edited by powdr; 07/16/17.
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Try Hart barrels. My friend had a .375 Ruger built on a #3 contour. It shoots, too.



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I would go with Douglas.

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Try Proof Research Carbon fiber wrapped barrels.
Otherwise, most barrel makers will build your barrel to your contour requirement, as long as there's enough meat on the barrel to meet safety requirements, you should be good.

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Any good smith with a lathe can do it for you. Just a matter of turning down a blank.

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Originally Posted by szihn
Any good smith with a lathe can do it for you. Just a matter of turning down a blank.



I don't think I would do that. Let the barrel company contour it.

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Originally Posted by powdr
I am interested in a light weight .338 barrel. Who makes the lightest that will still shoot? powdr



Slightly off topic I know, but, I bought a rusted bore pre-64 270 and sent it to JES, I've got a 7.5lb hunting rifle in 338-06 that shoots bugholes in calm winds, IIRC I've read you buying and selling pre-64 M-70 parts.


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powdr Offline OP
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Thanks guys, still mulling it over. powdr

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Originally Posted by butchlambert1
Originally Posted by szihn
Any good smith with a lathe can do it for you. Just a matter of turning down a blank.



I don't think I would do that. Let the barrel company contour it.
Got THAT right....


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Why Redneck and Butch?

I do it regularly and it's not a problem.

In fact I do most of my own contouring because most of my work is recreation or restoration and I need to make my contours like the European and English contours popular in the 20s.
This one is going to be a full-stocked Shul style Mauser in 9.3X57
[Linked Image]OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA by Steve Zihn, on Flickr
This is one I did to rebuild a 6.5X54 Mannlicher.
[Linked Image]OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA by Steve Zihn, on Flickr
And here is an original Mauser 8X57 barrel on my Fullstock cabine.
[Linked Image]OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA by Steve Zihn, on Flickr
All of these barrels are the old 1920s contours and all I have done in the last 40 years shot well. None are problematic to make.
It's just doing what the customer wants.

Most American barrel makers do wonderful contours, but I know of none that do the old fashioned shapes.

My point is simply that it is not a lot of work to take an "American contour" and make a "Germanic contour" from it, so it's no more work to simply slim one down either.

Last edited by szihn; 07/17/17.
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Originally Posted by szihn
Why Redneck and Butch?

I do it regularly and it's not a problem.

In fact I do most of my own contouring because most of my work is recreation or restoration and I need to make my contours like the European and English contours popular in the 20s.
This one is going to be a full-stocked Shul style Mauser in 9.3X57
[Linked Image]OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA by Steve Zihn, on Flickr
This is one I did to rebuild a 6.5X54 Mannlicher.
[Linked Image]OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA by Steve Zihn, on Flickr
And here is an original Mauser 8X57 barrel on my Fullstock cabine.
[Linked Image]OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA by Steve Zihn, on Flickr
All of these barrels are the old 1920s contours and all I have done in the last 40 years shot well. None are problematic to make.
It's just doing what the customer wants.

Most American barrel makers do wonderful contours, but I know of none that do the old fashioned shapes.

My point is simply that it is not a lot of work to take an "American contour" and make a "Germanic contour" from it, so it's no more work to simply slim one down either.



Most on here do not have a lathe. I have 2, but let the barrel company contour them.

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Quite simply, unless there is no other option, I don't contour barrels; it is generally FAR less expensive for the customer if the Manufacturer contours the barrel than if I do. Same goes for almost everyone else I know in the business. It's not hard, it is however time consuming and time equals money.

I do often alter contoured barrels to improve weight and balance. Most suppliers make barrels with entirely too much meat in the chamber area.

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[quote=szihn]Why Redneck and Butch?
Most American barrel makers do wonderful contours, but I know of none that do the old fashioned shapes./quote]

Not American but good barrels in classic Euro contours by Lothar Walthar.

Nice rifles BTW and I like the caliber choices, classic. Do you have a pattern for a left hand Wundhammer style of stock? I want to make a Mr. Rifleman rifle.


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Tejano, I have no patterns, but I have used some original stocks as models from time to time. But most are made to order.

What I do most often is to set the barreled action on a large piece of paper and trace it. I draw in the lie of sigh over the top. Then I measure down for drop at comb and drop at heel. Drop at toe is usually no more then the drop at heel plus the length of the butt pad or butt plate, unless I am making the plate myself. If I have an order for a rifle where I can make the butt plate myself I can then draw the pattern as specified by the customer and I make the plate to fit the drawing instead of drawing the butt to fit the plate.

What action do you have to start with?

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PAC NOR is sending me one that is very slightly larger than a Kimber 84M profile (.58" at muzzle). Can't get much smaller than that with a .338. Time will tell if it shoots.

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powdr Offline OP
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What cha gonna make prm? powdr

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prm Offline
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Originally Posted by powdr
What cha gonna make prm? powdr


Still a 338 Fed going back on my 84M. Wanted to try one with just a touch more weight out front. So barrel is 23" and very slightly larger. Not looking for a major change as I was quite happy as it was. Also hoping this one likes some different bullets. Doing a Deer and elk hunt out west and a 180 AB at ~2800-2850 would be nice.

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go buy a used kimber in .338 federal, mine is chopped at 17" and shoots everything I feed it between 1-1.5MOA

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powdr Offline OP
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Thanks guys. Funny prm, I had an inquiry into Pac Nor and they just emailed me back w/the same option. I think if I go that route they'll get the nod. powdr

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Supposed to arrive on Monday. Assume I'll have to re-bed so it will take a week or so to shoot.

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