Is there any need to free float the average rifle? Anyone know the action screw torque specs? Think the only thing I would do is add a $100 Timney trigger set at 2.5lb.
The 7mm RM I bought in 1982 would shoot higher and more to the left the more I shot it. Had it floated and no problems since. In fact, several years ago that rifle printed a 3-shot center-to-center .262" 3-shot group.
Since then I have floated all my bolt rifles with these exceptions:
1. Rifles like my MKII VT that came floated from the factory.
2. Rifles like my Hawkeyes that have synthetic stocks. (Haven't found a need to do so.)
Floating a wood stock is easy:
1. Remove the stock.
2. Sand the barrel channel. I loop sandpaper once around a round cylinder like a Hi-Liter.
3. Test fit the sanded stock to the action and try to slide a dollar bill between the stock and barrel, all the way back to the action.
4. Keep sanding as necessary.
5. Seal the sanded wood with a light coat of polyurethane. I use a rag to do this, no need to clean a brush afterwards.
6. Allow the poly to dry (more or less).
7. Reassemble the stock and action and retest with a dollar bill.
The hardest art on a Ruger is getting rid of the bump at the end of the forearm. It will take most of the sanding effort. Once you've done as many as I have, floating is a 15-20 minute job.
Good luck.
