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Originally Posted by Zerk
Mounted a set of Leupold QR this morning. Alternated holes to 15 inch/lbs. Then took one out at time and put some blue loctite on. Back to 15. Than did all 4 20, and 28. In the past I wasn't putting locker on rings, but decided to here. In the past I probably should have been tqing more often. I think I was actually way under tighening. I thought I was doing the opposite.


Ring screw torque specs are typically given for dry assembly. Wet (lubricated) assembly, whether lubricated with oil, grease, powdered rosin, teflon, silicone, uncured thread locker, etc., results in greater strain on the fastener at any given dry torque setting. Your torque wrench measures the amount of energy used to install the fastener. Threaded fasteners are designed to stretch during assembly like a spring. If over tightened, the fastener will permanently deform, like a sprung spring that no longer returns to its original shape. Lubticating a threaded fastener reduces the amount of energy required to stretch the fastener during assembly. To this end, if fastener torque specs are given for dry assembly, reducing torque wrench settings during lubricated assembly will achieve adequate fastener stretch without exceeding the material's elastic threshold. The degree to which lubricated settings should be reduced depends on the quality of the lubricant.


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Originally Posted by Mule Deer
Zerk,

I'd already concluded that you're a troll, but it took longer to fully confirm you're a nitwit.


I already concluded that he acts the fool on purpose because no one acts that stupid except on purpose.

In that respect, he's brilliant.



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Originally Posted by kingston
Originally Posted by Zerk
Mounted a set of Leupold QR this morning. Alternated holes to 15 inch/lbs. Then took one out at time and put some blue loctite on. Back to 15. Than did all 4 20, and 28. In the past I wasn't putting locker on rings, but decided to here. In the past I probably should have been tqing more often. I think I was actually way under tighening. I thought I was doing the opposite.


Ring screw torque specs are typically given for dry assembly. Wet (lubricated) assembly, whether lubricated with oil, grease, powdered rosin, teflon, silicone, uncured thread locker, etc., results in greater strain on the fastener at any given dry torque setting. Your torque wrench measures the amount of energy used to install the fastener. Threaded fasteners are designed to stretch during assembly like a spring. If over tightened, the fastener will permanently deform, like a sprung spring that no longer returns to its original shape. Lubticating a threaded fastener reduces the amount of energy required to stretch the fastener during assembly. To this end, if fastener torque specs are given for dry assembly, reducing torque wrench settings during lubricated assembly will achieve adequate fastener stretch without exceeding the material's elastic threshold. The degree to which lubricated settings should be reduced depends on the quality of the lubricant.

Damn that is correct, and I forgot. The lube allows them to tighen further.

I am using it short range, so hopefully ok. But will have to keep track of this scope, and pay attention next time I use it. Hopefully didn't do damage.


I knew this from working on engines, but forgot to carry it over.

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Originally Posted by smokepole
Originally Posted by Mule Deer
Zerk,

I'd already concluded that you're a troll, but it took longer to fully confirm you're a nitwit.


I already concluded that he acts the fool on purpose because no one acts that stupid except on purpose.

In that respect, he's brilliant.

Please explain to me, how a point can touch in any more then one spot?

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Originally Posted by Zerk

Please explain to me........


Sorry, no matter what the subject that's an impossible task.



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Lubing the bases makes more sense, since you cannot check them with scope on. Rings can be checked. My mistake. First time putting lube on rings. I don't think it is awful, but tq value should be backed down.



http://warnescopemounts.com/do-i-need-threadlocker/
We recommend all bases being mounted to a firearms receiver use a non-permanent threadlocker, which is typically a blue or purple color. A firearm barreled action is under immense stress when it is fired. This creates shock and vibration which can loosen the small screws that are commonly used to mount bases to the receiver. A small application of threadlocker, and the proper torque of no more than 25 in/lb (steel receivers only) will ensure that the base screws stay tight, even on the harshest recoiling rifles.

threadlocker

Warne does not recommend the use of threadlocker on our rings. When a threadlocking compound is applied to screw threads, it can act as a lubricant. When you torque lubricated threads vs. torquing dry threads, when using the same amount of torque, more pressure will be put on the scope tube due to the lubricated screw being easier to tighten. We recommend 25 in/lb of torque for all Warne rings, and that torque spec is intended for dry threads. If threadlocker was applied to the threads, and the ring was torqued to 25 in/lb, there is potential for scope tube damage. An easy way to make sure you are tightening mounts to the proper torque is to use the Warne TW1 torque wrench. It is preset at 25 in/lb with a T-15 Torx bit for easy installation.

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Originally Posted by Mule Deer
Jeff,

An aluminum scope tube has PLENTY of flex, one reason ring-screws shouldn't be over-tightened, because beyond a certain point the tube will bend and not flex.

I once bought a new rifle that came with a new 3-10x Swarovski Z3. This was a package deal in a major firearms/gunsmithing store in a big Texas city. When I took the rifle to my range for the first time, the scope wouldn't adjust correctly, so I decided to replace it. It took so much effort to back off the ring-screws that they made an audible CRACK when they finally broke free, and when removed the scope has two visible "waists" where the rings had been. However, it did work correctly after the ring-screws were backed off to 20 inch-pounds.

I have run into this several times with scopes installed by supposedly professional gunsmiths, as well as many amateurs. Have even seen variables turned into fixed-powers by over-tightening ring screws. Usually the tube will spring back all right once the rings are loose, but not always. It depends on the thickness of the scope tube, and how hard the installer tightened the screws.


I lap most of my 1" rings, never original Weavers, before I use them and I've put a dent or two in alloy scope tubes, but I've never had a Warne ring come loose on the base when the top screw(s) were tightened, with or without a scope installed.

I have one of the 25 inch pound T-15 torque wrenches that Warne sells, but if more torque is needed, I could put a cheater bar on the "L" shaped Torx wrench that typically comes with newer bases and go "farmer tight".

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Originally Posted by Zerk
If a member wrote it, than it's tainted. Plus some joe blow wants to write about technical stuff. A good hunter may not be the most technically minded person. Conical points can only meet in one place. Myself, I make my living off things being technical and correct. People talking about points being able to meet at 90 degrees, proves my point.



Further proof that you do not know as much as you think you know.

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Originally Posted by GeorgiaBoy
Originally Posted by Zerk
If a member wrote it, than it's tainted. Plus some joe blow wants to write about technical stuff. A good hunter may not be the most technically minded person. Conical points can only meet in one place. Myself, I make my living off things being technical and correct. People talking about points being able to meet at 90 degrees, proves my point.



Further proof that you do not know as much as you think you know.

Again, explain to me how two points can meet when not aligned?

I think the flats, should tell you too. But that the points won't work, is silly. That points can line up 90 degrees is simple minded. The points are on the same bar as the flats


They sell them with points for a reason. Would be cheaper to make them without the points.

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Originally Posted by Zerk
That points can line up 90 degrees is simple minded.


Points don't line up, they touch. What's behind them (the bars) can be oriented in many different configurations with the points touching.

You're simple minded. Or at least work very hard to appear to be.



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Originally Posted by Mule Deer
Zerk,

I'd already concluded that you're a troll, but it took longer to fully confirm you're a nitwit.


I think he is Llama Bob reincarnated.


It is irrelevant what you think. What matters is the TRUTH.
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The proof that you do not know as much as you think you know is in the following statement:


Quote
If a member wrote it, than it's tainted. Plus some joe blow wants to write about technical stuff.

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It's so simple to see: Just put two well sharpened pencils on a flat surface. Their tips can still touch as well as you can resolve with the pencils in any number of non aligned positions.

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Originally Posted by JGRaider
Originally Posted by Mule Deer
Zerk,

I'd already concluded that you're a troll, but it took longer to fully confirm you're a nitwit.


I think he is Llama Bob reincarnated.

What I'm thinking also.


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The dog anolgy is for idiots. The person who came up with it, was not able to water the topic down to convey it.

The points are 3 dimensional tip of a cone. They are the center axis, which runs parrallel the circumference of the rods. The flats are at 90s. We are not talking about an infinite point, but a 3 dimentional finite point. Pencil tip should be a good analogy, but for some reason isn't getting through. If the pencil's are 90 degrees, one side or area is not being touch. More is being touched on the other side.

This should be very clear with two dimensional trianleges. At 90 degrees they both have sides that are touching, and sides that are not. They should not have any sides touching, but rather just their tips. The diamter is drawn from the center. It is created based on the center point. If one is not lined up, none will .



I tend to think either would work. But to think the points doesn't work is ignorant. It sad how Americans have such a poor understand of math and science these days. We have more physcial therapists graduating than engineers.


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Originally Posted by mathman
It's so simple to see: Just put two well sharpened pencils on a flat surface. Their tips can still touch as well as you can resolve with the pencils in any number of non aligned positions.

Great analogy. But the pencil tip is the center of the pencil, and comes to a tip. It is parallel with the outside of the pencil, which is what you are using to align the flats. It two tips are not meeting a their tips, then one is hitting the others side, or cone.

Great analogy, but you failed to finish it. Same with finger tips. Any tip that is on center axis.


Would a pyramid be easier to see?


There is no way the center axises can aligned and the axises along the circumference, not aligned. All go together. Which is why you are able to do it different that the standard way, and have it work out. Just comes down to which is easier to see.

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Originally Posted by Zerk


The points are 3 dimensional tip of a cone.


A point is by definition one-dimensional. It has no length, height, width, or orientation Or axis. There is no such thing as a three-dimensional point. A line is two-dimensional. It has length and orientation but no height or width..

A body is three dimensional with length, height, and width.



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Originally Posted by smokepole
Originally Posted by Zerk


The points are 3 dimensional tip of a cone.


A point is by definition one-dimensional. It has no length, height, width, or orientation Or axis. There is no such thing as a three-dimensional point. A line is two-dimensional. It has length and orientation but no height or width..

A body is three dimensional with length, height, and width.

We are using 3 dimmensional object

I though apex might be to big of word for you to understad.

A cone is a three-dimensional geometric shape that tapers smoothly from a flat base (frequently, though not necessarily, circular) to a point called the apex or vertex.

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If the center axises are not lined up, the apexes are not touching each other, but rather the sides of the cone.

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Actually, what I said was wrong, "good catch." A point is zero dimensional. A line is one-dimensional. A plane is two dimensional.

A cone is three dimensional.

The point at the tip of the apex can touch the point at the tip of another apex with many different orientations of the cones.

The point on top or your head however is destined to remain firmly planted up your ass.


Originally Posted by Zerk
It two tips are not meeting a their tips, then one is hitting the others side, or cone.


You're trying to make an argument using geometry, but you're not using the geometric definition of the term "point." You're using a different definition. Try using the correct one.

A point is dimensionless. It has no length, width, or depth. Therefore it has no sides.



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