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Joined: Dec 2005
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So I have a JC Higgins Model 50 I picked up years back in .30-06. I have decided to install a Timney Featherweight 201 using the original stock.
Upon installation, I noticed the stock is not milled like a regular stock with a nice big hole for the trigger group. Rather, it's a small, stepped opening for the original trigger to allow clearance just for the sear. My question is this.
Am I looking at this correctly in that I will need to inlet approx. a 1" x 1/2" wide section for the trigger to fit? For those that have installed this trigger in a JCH 50, is that right?
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Joined: Feb 2001
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Campfire Kahuna
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Campfire Kahuna
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It has been years since I installed one but I believe you are correct.
Mark Begich, Joaquin Jackson, and Heller resistance... Three huge reasons to worry about the NRA.
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Joined: Feb 2009
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Campfire Outfitter
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Campfire Outfitter
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Yep some material needs to be removed so the trigger housing will fit.
Just take a small amount off at a time.
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Joined: Jan 2001
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Campfire Outfitter
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Campfire Outfitter
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I put the same trigger in a commercial FN mauser action and had to do the same thing. Take some careful measurements before starting and only take out where you need to and not much else. It gets pretty thin down there pretty fast if you're not careful.. BTW, love the trigger on this rifle. It has been my go to deer rifle for many years now....
Never underestimate your ability to overestimate your ability.
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I put the same trigger in a commercial FN mauser action and had to do the same thing. Take some careful measurements before starting and only take out where you need to and not much else. It gets pretty thin down there pretty fast if you're not careful.. BTW, love the trigger on this rifle. It has been my go to deer rifle for many years now.... Sheister, I noticed the bottom of the trigger shoe comes close to touching the bottom of the trigger guard? Does it touch the guard when being pulled? In other words, can it articulate freely inside the original trigger guard?
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Joined: Aug 2010
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Campfire Regular
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Campfire Regular
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There are various mauser triggers by Timney. The difference being the location and contour of the trigger. Some are farther rearward than others. If you have the wrong trigger it very well may touch the bottom of the guard or the back of the guard bow and not shoot. Gew 98, 98K, and FN can use the same triggers. The Kar 98a WWI carbine trigger is different. Timney's description is lacking. They confuse the 98K with the K98 (Kar 98a).
Once you get it fully opened up and installed you will know for sure if the trigger you have is going to work as is, work if modified a bit, or just wrong and won't work.
PA Bear Hunter, NRA Benefactor Member
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Joined: Dec 2005
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Campfire Regular
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There are various mauser triggers by Timney. The difference being the location and contour of the trigger. Some are farther rearward than others. If you have the wrong trigger it very well may touch the bottom of the guard or the back of the guard bow and not shoot. Gew 98, 98K, and FN can use the same triggers. The Kar 98a WWI carbine trigger is different. Timney's description is lacking. They confuse the 98K with the K98 (Kar 98a).
Once you get it fully opened up and installed you will know for sure if the trigger you have is going to work as is, work if modified a bit, or just wrong and won't work. I purchased the Timney 201. It stated it was made for a JC Higgins 50/51. I think I have the correct trigger but won't know as you stated until I open up the stock.
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Joined: Sep 2004
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Campfire Regular
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Campfire Regular
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The Timney 201 is the correct trigger. Be advised however that all of the Higgins model 50's I've encountered with cracked stocks (behind rear tang) had been fitted with aftermarket triggers. This due to the amount of wood removed for trigger installation. Replacement of the trigger however is a good idea since the originals have been known to AD due to improperly tightened bottom metal. The trigger shoe and sear are attached to the bottom metal which, when not properly tightened causes the trigger sear to pull away from the cocking piece sear.
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Replacement of the trigger however is a good idea since the originals have been known to AD due to improperly tightened bottom metal. The trigger shoe and sear are attached to the bottom metal which, when not properly tightened causes the trigger sear to pull away from the cocking piece sear. Any idea what the recommended torque should be for the trigger guard screws? I took it apart and torqued them back down to 35 in-lbs.
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Joined: Sep 2004
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Campfire Regular
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Hand tight, the important thing is to not let them loosen up. Inspect frequently.
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