Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Gunsmithing How to add a pressure point?

Small drop of thick epoxy in the fore end.

Clamp stock upside down in vise and hang 5-10 pounds from the barrel until cured...

That said, it is the answer to the question no one should be asking... I have never seen a pressure point produce a consistently accurate rifle. Finicky is the best description. Full length neutral bedding is always consistent.

Notice today's accurate super-light rifles are generally bedded full length...

Don't care for that hanging weight thing. Tried it a few times and it wasn't consistent. What I have done to find the right pressure is to use squares cut from business cards. Go out to the range, put a couple under the barrel at the fore end, torque action to your specs (I use 40 in/lbs), fire 3 shot groups adding pieces of cards as you fire each group. When you find an accuracy point, bed the fore end around the stack of cards, when it's cured, remove the card stock, bed the hole for appearance, and you're good to go. Only had to do that once as I usually bed the barrels neutral. The largest majority of my guns shoot best that way.

What's "complicated" about it? You start off with a layer of cards that puts very light up pressure, fire, loosen action, add another card and keep doing it till you get a good group. Once you do you bed, continue your load development with adjustments to bullet depth if necessary. If you start off with 40 in/lbs on the action screws you can also play with toirque for minute adjustments.

I've hanged weight on the barrel to bed and I found that far more complicated trying to figure how to stabilize the gun upside down and steady enough to hold for the epoxy to cure. Plus what you hang on the end of the barrel tells you nothing. When I finished that way, a couple of times I had to add card stock for more pressure and had to do it all over again. That's when I went to neutral bedding and was mostly successful with that. Much easier to me.

Sitka deer, we think alike for neutral bedding, except for your view of my method as "complicated". I think the business of hanging a weight on a barrel is far more complicated. When you do that it's just a guess what the result is going to be, you have to shoot it to find out, and you might have to add MORE weight, bed again, and stress things further. And you still have to shoot it more to find out!

For your own rifles there isn't even any need to pretty up the bedding after you've done some accuracy testing with stacked business cards in there. You can just bed on your stack of cards, leave them there and bed around them.

This method wasn't mine. For many years I went to the range 4 to 5 times a week. A gunsmith/rifle builder friend who guaranteed his customs to shoot 1 minute, talked me into shooting and developing loads for them. He too had found a neutral bedding to be the best and I started doing his method with my own guns, particularly the thin contours. The heavier contours the builder always started full floated and if they shot, they were left that way. For the thinner contours It was he who took me though the progression which I adopted for my own guns. I avoid pressure point if possible but that was NOT the question the OP asked!