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after looking at mine, it does appear that it the rear ring is too far back, the bolt handle will not go far enough forward to allow the bolt to rotate closed. See if bolt handle is hitting right rear portion of rear scope ring.
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Elk,
Correct. NOT the chamber.
I've worked on 4 different Tikkas now that had the wrong screws in the front base. It's a common problem when not paying close attention. Said screw protrudes just enough to sometimes keep the bolt from closing enough to fire. I've had two out of four actually fire with the condition, depending on ammo, screw and the bolt lug engagement. Yeah that makes sense, I just have never had that happen, usually I can't close the bolt the first time with a screw in the way. Some folks grab hammers right off the bat... Grin.
Nut
Experience hath shewn, that even under the best forms of government those entrusted with power have, in time, and by slow operations, perverted it into tyranny.
Thomas Jefferson
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Is the bolt shroud the original plastic or aftermarket metal?
P
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Saw it when we were monkeying with the Talleys.
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after looking at mine, it does appear that it the rear ring is too far back, the bolt handle will not go far enough forward to allow the bolt to rotate closed. See if bolt handle is hitting right rear portion of rear scope ring. Now this is the type of "forehead slapper" I am hoping for and will check when I get home tonight. Someone earlier in this thread made the mention of why was I able to then chamber and fire the first round. Remember, after I fired the first round I noticed that my rings/bases were both loose and tightened them appropriately after the first round was fired. Don't ask me why that wasn't done when I mounted it last week. I must have got called away in the midst of mounting the scope. Is the bolt shroud the original plastic or aftermarket metal? Original plastic. Saw it when we were monkeying with the Talleys. 16bore, these don't screw top down as they are the Sako/Tikka rings made to be attached to the rail via the side compression plate and screw.
Last edited by TheBigSky; 08/21/17.
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Saw it when we were monkeying with the Talleys. 16bore, these don't screw top down as they are the Sako/Tikka rings made to be attached to the rail via the side compression plate and screw. So you are using the factory rings. Kills my theory...
Nut
Experience hath shewn, that even under the best forms of government those entrusted with power have, in time, and by slow operations, perverted it into tyranny.
Thomas Jefferson
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_________________________________________________________________________
“Montana seems to me to be what a small boy would think Texas is like from hearing Texans.”
John Steinbeck
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I had the same problem with the bolt closing. Took it to a gunsmith and he backed off the action screw. Problem solved.
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If the rings are the problem just order you a set of Talley tonight
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I had the same problem with the bolt closing. Took it to a gunsmith and he backed off the action screw. Problem solved. A possibility, but if it needed loosened to clear, i would shorten and re-tighten. Unless it was farmer-tight to begin with.
Parents who say they have good kids..Usually don't!
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Sharpie will tell the story.
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Ding, ding, ding. We have a winner. after looking at mine, it does appear that it the rear ring is too far back, the bolt handle will not go far enough forward to allow the bolt to rotate closed. See if bolt handle is hitting right rear portion of rear scope ring. I was hoping for a forehead slapper and I got one. Jeez, I don't usually get so lucky. It was just enough too far back that I couldn't even notice when I was looking it over. The loose base screws should have been my first clue when it did happen. That was the one and only thing that changed between round one and no further rounds. I must have been distracted by my anger the moron at the range who flipped the siren/flashing light switch after I fired one round. Thanks all for the suggestions. Man, the moron who mounted this scope has mounted literally thousands over the years, even several dozen Tikkas, and never done this. I know, because I'm that moron. Picture below. Thanks again all. Hopefully this will save someone aggravation in the future. ![[Linked Image]](http://i.imgur.com/Se3qjw9.jpg)
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John Steinbeck
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Good deal. Glad it was something easy.
It is irrelevant what you think. What matters is the TRUTH.
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Yes, a lesson learned for all of us. Good to see you figured it out and it was an easy fix.
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I must have been distracted by my anger the moron at the range who flipped the siren/flashing light switch after I fired one round. Hey, I was in a hurry and could tell you wouldn't be shooting for a while... In all seriousness, it's getting to be that time of year when the range officer is welcomed to keep dumbasses from doing that. Glad you got it figured out.
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Tater
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I must have been distracted by my anger the moron at the range who flipped the siren/flashing light switch after I fired one round. Hey, I was in a hurry and could tell you wouldn't be shooting for a while... In all seriousness, it's getting to be that time of year when the range officer is welcomed to keep dumbasses from doing that. Glad you got it figured out. Yep, as I've told you before Dale, about the first of September is time to start avoiding our range.
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“Montana seems to me to be what a small boy would think Texas is like from hearing Texans.”
John Steinbeck
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Glad it was a simple fix. Had a similar senior moment recently when mounting a scope. Snugged everything and the power ring wouldn't turn. Yep, it was on top of the rail just barely so that the Weaver style rings would clasp the rail but the power ring was not clear. 
Ed
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I had a similar prob. Sure as hell one of the scope base screws protruded very slightly into the chamber.
Before you panic, remove the bases and check the bolt for function.
Bob My thoughts also.
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Yes, a lesson learned for all of us. Good to see you figured it out and it was an easy fix. This.
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