Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunter's Campfire valve job

Well, if he knows what he is talking about and it is true that the problem is one single burned valve (not likely in my thinking) he can remove that head, replace the valve, mildly seat the remaining 7 and be out of that problem fairly easily. Can he tell you the relative cold compression numbers for those four cans?

These, but EFI is big. Think how you started a carbed engine, Choke, stomp the throttle twice, accelator pumps spraying raw gas directly into yhe venturi, washing the oil out of the cylinders,smoke rolling, now your perfect tuned carb is running a 12:1 ratii. Ideal s about 14.5: 1. So you are always running too rich. Am I he only one that can sniff out a muscle car at a red light. We never noticed that smell in the past, it was normal.

Truck diesels have been direct injection forever. The electronic controls have lengthened big diesel life significantly since the early nineties.

Valve job never hurt the rings one bit in the old engines....they were already hurt.....the valve job just restored some compression where as it created more blow by and oil consumption..
105 k on a newer engine will look like new inside if it had regular oil changes with good oil...valve may not be even the problem...might be a cam lobe

The 6.0 vortec tends to break a rear-most exhaust manifold bolt, for some reason - would an exhaust leak cause the burnt valve?

It's not just muscle cars, it's just about any carb'd V-8. I'm always amazed at the number of folks who don't recognize the sweetish smell of an over-gassed V-8. If there's an early 80's or older pickup pulling a heavier boat, camper, or farm implement and you can smell them from a mile or more.

They dont all last longer.
Have a 2016 F150 with the smaller eco boost. The dealer finally got an OK from Ford to pull the head to check a valve. Smokes oil on some starts.
Didn't get 45K on the engine before problem.

The reason engines last longer these days is due to better machining, better metallurgical processes (hardened valve guides etc.) and better bearings/seals...IOW, technology...

I forgot about that. An exhaust leak between the exhaust header and the head can will definitely cause a burned valve/seat if you run it too long with the leak. It can also damage the surface of the head where the exhaust port is attached.

This stuff on oil was told to me by a chemical engineer in an oil refinery....his job was bonding molecules .....wired huh...but what he told me was the zink protected metal to metal contact points such as cam lobe /lifter....the roller tips eliminated the need for the zink.
I actually learned a lot about oil and how it's made....forgot most of it but parifne based oils tend to want to rebond and they use a catilest to keep it formula...stay away from them as the sludge bad....

Small engines still need the zinc. I see a lot of failures due to folks using standard automotive oils in their lawn & garden engines.

You supposed to change the oil in stuff like that???? I just put an ounce of Marvel Mystery Oil in every tankful of gas and they run forever...never change the oil in those things.