Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunting Rifles Kimber 84L Montana(mag spring revisited...)

Ummm, worth a look. Pretty sure there's room in mine to slip forward like you're describing, causing the backend tilt observed. Thanks.



Update:
Sure 'nough. Exactly as described. Epoxy curing. Fingers crossed.


Re-update:
Yes indeed! With the dab of epoxy in place, blocking the leading edge of the spring from sliding fully forward, the rearend of the follower has zero tendency to drop. I made it so it keeps it about 3/8" or maybe 7/16" from the front of the box inlet, which seemed the sweet spot to allow the follower to align with the box yet exhibit no rearend dippage. Will test when I get the chance.

Many thanks to Oregon Coot, and SamO too.

I know this thread is old, but this task wasn't high on the todo list when I last posted in it. But its getting that time a year again.

I ordered this part on one of those days when Brownells had FREE shipping with no minimum order

I got the original spring out and decided to compare the compression of each. The new spring in actually a little less (3-5oz) pressure for the same distance (measure on a weighting scale compressing both to the same height). But the way the new spring is shaped (formed) it applies much more of it's force to the rear of the follower. And that is where I WAS having the issue as the bolt was occasionally passing over the case head because it was squatting a little.

I did have to trim a little off the new spring to "fit it" to the follower.

Ran about 6 magazines full through it, no issues, works better than it ever has since I had it.

Be Safe,

Is "janky" a word? powdr

I think I'm all set with dad's gun but just in case, I'll tag this one.

tag

I have the same problem with my 270 84L. I thought I fixed it with a BDL spring but it malfunctioned again. I worked out my problem was the spring sliding forward. I cut a shim and glued it into the bottom of the mag well. Again I thought I'd fixed it but not to be as the two part glue I used on the shim failed and caused the shim to come loose only to let me load two rounds into the mag. Pissed off I have to try fix it for the fourth time. After shimming it the first round was a bit hard to chamber due to a lot of pressure on the case head so I need to shorten the shim a little.

Tag

Just for future reference if anyone was going to copy the shim I mad above. I spoke to my gun smith and he was of the opinion that no glue will stand up to the recoil and that I would be better of Tig welding or silver soldering a spacer like my shim onto the bottom of the mag box.

Just off the top of my head,I would say you could rough up both surfaces very good,even drilling slightly into the underside of your shim and drilling shallow holes for epoxy to stick into the stock would work wonders. i would use Accraglass and clamp it down under pressure rigging a clamp under the stock and a block down onto your shim.

You could also add two small short pins epoxied into place going slightly into the stock. I would just make sure to fill with accraglass,not the gel. I bet it wouldn't move.

If you do the epoxy,make sure to clean the stock and get rid of all paint. Clean with acetone on Q-tips. until you don't have anything on your Q-tips anymore. Cleaning is half a good glue up.

Before I did all that though I would make absolutely sure your shim is a 100% fix.

That could work. I'm still not sure what way to go. I've got another idea in welding or soldering another piece of metal into the bottom of the mag spring that would continue under the mag box like where the shim is. I'll pull it apart again and try work something out :-(

A simple fix is to push the spring all the way to the rear, de-grease and fill the front space with a pool of epoxy, deep enough to grip the vertical sides of the spring cutout. This has held for years in my rifle.

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