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All the oil filters have a bypass valve and once the filter media is plugged from those long drain intervals, the pressure differential opens that valve and unfiltered oil is what is lubricating your engine. That carbon black color in my drain oil is coming from somewhere and it darn sure doesn't look like it did when I put in the new oil. Use a white catch pan the next time you change your oil instead of the black one and then look at the crap that your oil filter is missing.


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Originally Posted by Windfall
All the oil filters have a bypass valve and once the filter media is plugged from those long drain intervals, the pressure differential opens that valve and unfiltered oil is what is lubricating your engine. That carbon black color in my drain oil is coming from somewhere and it darn sure doesn't look like it did when I put in the new oil. Use a white catch pan the next time you change your oil instead of the black one and then look at the crap that your oil filter is missing.


Even the cheap filters would last longer than 2000 miles. If you use a quality oil and a quality filter you can easily do 5000 mile OCIs

If your oil filter is plugged after 2000 miles you have big problems

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Originally Posted by adam32
If you run Amsoil and run it 15-20k between changes just remember that most likely your warranty won't cover any issues since you aren't following the recommendations in the manual...


I don't know where the manual tells you about oil changes, I just wait for the computer to tell me when. The oils that we have today are good enough, you don't need to pay a bunch of money for synthetic. The computer tells you when to change oil, due to your mileage and driving habits.

I really doubt that Amsoil will save an engine over regular maintenance with standard oil, and the thought that it needs changed every 2-3000 miles is not true.


Originally Posted by RJY66

I was thinking the other day how much I used to hate Bill Clinton. He was freaking George Washington compared to what they are now.
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Hah, I use those two brands, but kinda backwards from you. I change oil & filter once a year, i don't put more than 15k miles per year.

I like Schaeffer's SoyShield, ATF & their chassis greases, but prefer Amsoil bearing grease, diff lubes & engine oil (as Schaeffer's doesn't make a full synthetic 10w30 diesel oil that I know of).

Originally Posted by walt501
I like Amsoil products and use a few myself, but I don't use their oil, not because I think it's bad oil - it's not - there are just better alternatives in my opinion. I've used their grease for my ball joints and tie rod ends for the past 230,000 miles. While the original no grease fitting ball joints were replaced, I'm still running the original tie rod ends at 244,000 miles. That's Minnesota miles, snow miles, sub-zero miles.

I use Schaeffer Oil, American's oldest oil company. Delivered right to my door by my sales representative - who has never once in 14 years of buying from him tried to sigh me up as some kind of dealer or other program in order to get a discount. If interested, here's his web site with complete product information.

Click Here.





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I have a 2015 tacoma change oil at 5000 with mobile 1

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Originally Posted by Windfall
All the oil filters have a bypass valve and once the filter media is plugged from those long drain intervals, the pressure differential opens that valve and unfiltered oil is what is lubricating your engine. That carbon black color in my drain oil is coming from somewhere and it darn sure doesn't look like it did when I put in the new oil. Use a white catch pan the next time you change your oil instead of the black one and then look at the crap that your oil filter is missing.


Tundra uses a cartridge filter , it does not have a bypass. The reason being what I bolded above.

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Did you go with Amsoil?

I should've posted sooner, but yeah, it's the real deal. The company I manage uses it exclusively in our fleet of vehicles; never an oil related failure in the 18 years I've been here and we've pushed a few of our trucks over 300,000, but you have to give credit to engine design and a routine maintenance schedule, BUT these trucks do not see an easy life.

I use Amsoil personally as well; no issues. My last Suburban was sold with 245,000 on the clock and still ran like new, but those 5.7L engines are great. I currently have a Silverado with 80,000 on the odometer and a Ram 2500 with 118,000 Amsoil in both since they were new. No issues.

IMO, they make some of the best gear oil on the market.


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Originally Posted by StudDuck
Did you go with Amsoil?

I should've posted sooner, but yeah, it's the real deal. The company I manage uses it exclusively in our fleet of vehicles; never an oil related failure in the 18 years I've been here and we've pushed a few of our trucks over 300,000, but you have to give credit to engine design and a routine maintenance schedule, BUT these trucks do not see an easy life.

I use Amsoil personally as well; no issues. My last Suburban was sold with 245,000 on the clock and still ran like new, but those 5.7L engines are great. I currently have a Silverado with 80,000 on the odometer and a Ram 2500 with 118,000 Amsoil in both since they were new. No issues.

IMO, they make some of the best gear oil on the market.


It is still under the Toyota vehicle maintenance plan until I roll 25k on it. I think the dealer is using Mobil 1 full synthetic and I paid/pay for the 5k 15k 25k oil and filter change . Bottom line is I am not running it past 5k without an oil and filter change ....too set in my ways to change. It was hard enough going from the 3k oil/filter change interval grin

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Originally Posted by Oldelkhunter
Originally Posted by StudDuck
Did you go with Amsoil?

I should've posted sooner, but yeah, it's the real deal. The company I manage uses it exclusively in our fleet of vehicles; never an oil related failure in the 18 years I've been here and we've pushed a few of our trucks over 300,000, but you have to give credit to engine design and a routine maintenance schedule, BUT these trucks do not see an easy life.

I use Amsoil personally as well; no issues. My last Suburban was sold with 245,000 on the clock and still ran like new, but those 5.7L engines are great. I currently have a Silverado with 80,000 on the odometer and a Ram 2500 with 118,000 Amsoil in both since they were new. No issues.

IMO, they make some of the best gear oil on the market.


It is still under the Toyota vehicle maintenance plan until I roll 25k on it. I think the dealer is using Mobil 1 full synthetic and I paid/pay for the 5k 15k 25k oil and filter change . Bottom line is I am not running it past 5k without an oil and filter change ....too set in my ways to change. It was hard enough going from the 3k oil/filter change interval grin


I should've been more specific. Our company vehicles use the Amsoil Signature Series/25,000 mile oil change, I personally run the OE Series oil and change it every 5,000, BUT in the aforementioned Suburban, I did the once a year/25,000 oil change.

I'm like you, I like a 5,000 or 7,500 mile oil change.


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I have a question. Those of you who are running 20K oil change intervals on quality synthetic, are you putting on that many miles in a year or does it take longer?

Never used the Amsoil but have noticed products like Mobil 1 "Extended Performance" and "Annual Protection" advertise that they are good for 15 or 25K miles or up to one year. What if you only drive 6 or 7k a year on a vehicle? Technically, you are supposed to dump it but I don't really see why, especially if you get the vehicle out on the road occasionally and get everything heated up.

I know the only real way to answer this is to have a lab analyze the oil but just wondering if anyone had any opinions.


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Originally Posted by RJY66
I have a question. Those of you who are running 20K oil change intervals on quality synthetic, are you putting on that many miles in a year or does it take longer?

Never used the Amsoil but have noticed products like Mobil 1 "Extended Performance" and "Annual Protection" advertise that they are good for 15 or 25K miles or up to one year. What if you only drive 6 or 7k a year on a vehicle? Technically, you are supposed to dump it but I don't really see why, especially if you get the vehicle out on the road occasionally and get everything heated up.

I know the only real way to answer this is to have a lab analyze the oil but just wondering if anyone had any opinions.



Your last sentence hit the nail on the head, the only true way of knowing is through UOAs (Used Oil Analysis)

I can see the additives in oil performing to a certain mileage threshold, but have never understood the "or up to one year" statement. Oil doesn't use a calendar, so perhaps certain chemicals in the ad pack deteriorate with time.


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I put about 10k per year on average.

I generally change once every 2 years after initial oil analysis showed the oil was still excellent.

On an engine just switched over from mineral oil, I'll change the filter at a 1 year interval & top up with a quart.

On an engine thats had a couple changes already, I just change oil/filter every 2 years.

Oil analysis has shown that the Amsoil is good to go for a couple years as long as a quality filter is used.

The Amsoil filters have Donaldson synthetic media inside, I generally just use the cheaper Donaldson branded synthetic media oil filters that are identical.


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I can tell ya Amsoil is no scam. It is very good oil. I wont say it's better than Schaeffers or Mobil 1 and none are scam. I just can't figure the hate for Amsoil but the love for M1. ? I have run Amsoil in my cars several times @ 35,000 mi. between changes when I first got wires 03 Dodge Stratus 2 dr. 4 cylinder when it had 36K on the meter. We ran it two times @ 35K oil changes two times and after that I went with diesel engine oil and changed every 10k. I sold it with 185K on it and has about 200K on it now and still now problem with the motor . It does burn a qt. about every 5,000 mi. however. If Amsoil was a scam why is it still a perfectly good running engine and an engine we did not take very good care of with 10k oil changes with regular oil to boot. I do use diesel motor oil because I believe it has more and better additives. I also ran Amsoil in my 05 GMC diesel . I bought it at 24K , filled it with AMsoil Series 3000 5w30 oil, the best they have. Ran it 46,000 mi. with filter change every 15K with oil test . At 18K it was good, at 33K it was good so I called and tested them about it. " How can this oil still be good. They assured me with those numbers the oil is still good. At 46K the iron got a bit high. I changed again , Amsoil 3000 5w30/ Amsoil filters. I ran it 39,000 mi. and at the 38K test it was a bit high but still safe but it was oxidizing. Out it went. Again, I ran it 25,000 mi. and did not care to do the $25 oil test again so out it went. So, 110,000 mi. with 3 oil fills . I now just go buy Shell Rotella 10w30 T3 ( Yellow) but more recently Shell Rotella T6 ( blue container) and change it every 10k with t3 and have 15K on Shell T6. I will change in the spring when it has about 15,000 on the T6. The truck has 244K and uses 1qt. in about 6,000 mi. I dont know how man people have to write stories like me and Seafire about changing oil as seldom as we do. Heck , Sharpsman here on the fire sais he does not change oil at all, so I PM him and he insisted he keeps him trucks about 250k and still no problems with him. Although, I should not speak for Sharpsman , but he did say this on the 24Hr. Also, I would like to add , I have ran Amsoil in my 25 horse Merc outboard @ 100/1 or 128/1 mix. Yes, one ounce per gallon. I have been running nothing but Amsoil 100/1 - 128/1 in my chainsaws for 20 years with no problems at all.

Last edited by ihookem; 02/04/18.

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I know guys that do it at 10k on amesoil but I know I couldn't do it so I stick with regular old chevron...320+ with 5 k oil changes so why bother..

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