24hourcampfire.com
24hourcampfire.com
-->
Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Hop To
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 17,239
JPro Offline OP
Campfire Ranger
OP Offline
Campfire Ranger
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 17,239
I've got various products at home and cannot remember what I've used in the past when cleaning tupperware for a Krylon job. What's best?


Now with even more aplomb
GB1

Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 621
R
RAN Offline
Campfire Regular
Offline
Campfire Regular
R
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 621
Lacquer thinner, brake cleaner, acetone, paint thinner all will remove routine oil and grease. Krylon, however, has little resistance to common gun cleaning solvents. A much better choice is Brownells,Aluma-Hyde II which is resistant plus being much more scratch and wear resistant.

RAN

Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 17,239
JPro Offline OP
Campfire Ranger
OP Offline
Campfire Ranger
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 17,239
Seems like I remember using denatured alcohol last time, but not sure which solvent promotes best paint adhesion. And you are right about the AH-II being tough. That's what I have used as my clear topcoat and it holds up great with half a dozen very light coats over Krylon. My daughter's stock from 5 years ago still looks like a new paint job.


Now with even more aplomb
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 86,157
Campfire Oracle
Offline
Campfire Oracle
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 86,157
Originally Posted by JPro
I've got various products at home and cannot remember what I've used in the past when cleaning tupperware for a Krylon job. What's best?

Are you using the Krylon made for plastic? I haven'y used that for a stock, but have on other plastics. Seems it just needs a clean, oil-free surface.

I'd just use alcohol. It's a fairly nonpolar solvent, dries quickly, and leaves no residue.


If you take the time it takes, it takes less time.
--Pat Parelli

American by birth; Alaskan by choice.
--ironbender
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 86,157
Campfire Oracle
Offline
Campfire Oracle
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 86,157
Search plastic stock paint prep in the search.

Link


If you take the time it takes, it takes less time.
--Pat Parelli

American by birth; Alaskan by choice.
--ironbender
IC B2

Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 151,031
Campfire Savant
Online Content
Campfire Savant
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 151,031
PVC clear cleaner

Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 17,239
JPro Offline OP
Campfire Ranger
OP Offline
Campfire Ranger
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 17,239
Originally Posted by ironbender
Originally Posted by JPro
I've got various products at home and cannot remember what I've used in the past when cleaning tupperware for a Krylon job. What's best?

Are you using the Krylon made for plastic? I haven'y used that for a stock, but have on other plastics. Seems it just needs a clean, oil-free surface.

I'd just use alcohol. It's a fairly nonpolar solvent, dries quickly, and leaves no residue.


I've only used the Fusion variety for plastic and have had good results. This one is going to be purple, for my 8 year old.... grin

And the PVC cleaner makes good sense too.


Now with even more aplomb
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 7,263
T
Campfire Tracker
Offline
Campfire Tracker
T
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 7,263
I lightly scuff the stock with 220 grit wet or dry paper to give a little "tooth" for the paint to stick to. Not sure if this is necessary but it doesn't hurt anything. Use your cleaner again after sanding.

Is the AH-II better than a spray on epoxy clear coat for durability? Looks a lot easier than Epoxy and cheaper too as you usually only get one use out of the epoxy.


"When you disarm the people, you commence to offend them and show that you distrust them either through cowardice or lack of confidence, and both of these opinions generate hatred." Niccolo Machiavelli
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 17,239
JPro Offline OP
Campfire Ranger
OP Offline
Campfire Ranger
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 17,239
I think AH-II is epoxy based.


Now with even more aplomb
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,050
B
Campfire Regular
Offline
Campfire Regular
B
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,050
Quick back ground on myself. I painted high end cars for 7 years. Currently do Gunkote, Cerakote and Duracoat. I use the same supplies I did back in the day when I painted cars. Remember the paint is only as good as the surface its put on. I use Prep sol to remove wax and grease. This done before you touch the stock. After its sanded I used Limco 139 final wash. This removes dust and finger prints. Wear gloves too. Most of these paints aren't very sensitive but I don't take chances. One of the most overlooked items is your air coming in. Oils and water are your biggest issue. Also filters must be far enough away from the source to allow time for the air to cool. At least 20 feet.


NRA LIfe Member, Colt, Sig, Smith & Wesson, Springfield Armorer, NYBIN , NYPD Firearms Examiner, Serial Number Restoration, Cerakote, Gunkote, and Duracoat finishes
IC B3


Moderated by  RickBin 

Link Copied to Clipboard
AX24

646 members (10gaugeman, 10gaugemag, 16penny, 160user, 117LBS, 10ring1, 69 invisible), 2,565 guests, and 1,199 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums81
Topics1,191,164
Posts18,465,252
Members73,925
Most Online11,491
Jul 7th, 2023


 


Fish & Game Departments | Solunar Tables | Mission Statement | Privacy Policy | Contact Us | DMCA
Hunting | Fishing | Camping | Backpacking | Reloading | Campfire Forums | Gear Shop
Copyright © 2000-2024 24hourcampfire.com, Inc. All Rights Reserved.



Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 7.7.5
(Release build 20201027)
Responsive Width:

PHP: 7.3.33 Page Time: 0.120s Queries: 14 (0.004s) Memory: 0.8316 MB (Peak: 0.9174 MB) Data Comp: Zlib Server Time: 2024-04-24 03:06:01 UTC
Valid HTML 5 and Valid CSS