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Oh, and by the way, who cares??? Haha

Oh hell. Don't get started on ported saws. Lol
That's a rabbit hole you don't easily get out of.
150,026,261,034S,044/046 hybrid,064/066,075,084,090. Ported.
With a 064/056 mag 2 top end and an 084/090 topend in the works.
I was gonna take him ported and stock of a couple of sizes.

Tough to beat a stuhl...

For your use it would be tough to beat a $179 Stihl MS170 they are the best bang for the buck going in a smaller 16" saw. Some of the suggestions here are giving you a 416 Rigby for whitetail. That Rigby will sure as heck kill a deer but do you need to pay $12 per shot to get the job done.

The 170 won a best value award that never goes to Stihl saws because they aren't cheap. Your 10" limbs can even be cut in the tree because the saw is light enough. I run an MS291 as my larger saw but the 170 with a sharp chain will do almost everything the Farm Boss will. The 170 wouldn't be my choice to fell a 3' diameter oak but you could get it done with that saw if you had to. For keeping up with a property and cutting one house worth of firewood it is all the saw you need.

This is where I am now, and I have trouble cranking mine because of the engine compression. It jerks the rope handle out of my hands. Does anybody still make one with a compression release? Used to be a bunch on the market, but I have failed to find one locally. miles

Stihl makes some of their smaller saw with a starting assist called ez start or something like that

Hello Bristoe, I have a Husqvarna 372xp professional saw with a 20" bar and a Husqvarna 455 Rancher with a 16" bar, I run 3/8 .058 semi chisel chain with rim sprockets on both and to be honest the saw I reach for and prefer to use is the 455 as it is lighter and handier, I use these on Australian black box wood and Redgum.

I chose Husqvarna as I find there is less vibration going through my hands, and I like the compression assist.

Not sure why all the recommendations for a 20-24" bar to make up to 10" cuts. A 16" or 18" bar will be plenty enough, and will spin faster than a longer bar/chain.

Get something between 50-55cc with a 16-18" bar and skip chain. Keep that sucker sharp and watch it walk through wood like butter.

Landowner vs pro lines not sure that it matters much just buy a quality brand with good support from a local shop. Stabil/Seafoam for storage when not in use.

Being 6'4" tall, I understand. miles

While I cannot say from experience what to buy, I can say DO NOT buy a Poulan. From research that I have done so far, it seems like either a Husqvarna or Stihl is the way to go.

Well, pretty much everything that needed to be said has been said. I'm most familiar with Stihl lineup, although I've run a fair amount of Huskies too. Was in the powerline R-O-W industry for about 14 years. To keep it as simple as possible, for what it sounds like you're planning to use it for, I'd probably just get an MS250 with an 18" bar and call it a day.

I too, like a 20" bar as someone said, to keep from bending so much. That's a little too long for the MS 250, but I ran one for years on an 026, which became the MS 261 after they changed their numbering system, and it weighs the same as the 250, but with more power and more $$. (Homeowner class to professional class.)

I bought a MS 361 after I wore out my 026, and while it is one badass saw, it's way overkill for what you're gonna do with it. Contrary to what some are saying, you don't need a 60 or 70 cc professional saw to cut up little trees like that, and the extra weight will kill your back after awhile.

Just a thought, but I've also got a badass climbing saw, the 020T, which became the MS 201T after the number system change. The sucker will flat out scream and has almost the same power as the MS 250, but it's as light as a feather too. My 75 year old dad loves to borrow it, but it's a top handle saw, which you don't want, because they're designed to balance with one hand use while in a tree, which greatly increases the likelihood of kickback. However, Stihl recently started putting a conventional tail handle on it and calling that model the MS 201C. It's a pretty pricey saw, but I'm intrigued by the idea. However, also came out with two cheaper, lighter versions of it, the MS 193C and MS 150C. While I'm a little leery on the lower power of the MS 150C, and not familiar with it, I've heard good things about the MS 193C.

Do not get a stihl 170. I litererally through mine out when the handle mount broke.

It’s a very light duty saw with the smallest chain.

All around trimming says a 200 class saw, Major trunks & limbs = 360. Class.

Stihl or Husky ... Dolmars are good but you won’t find machanics nearly as easy.

As was mentioned, get what has local service and parts.

I have a Husky 55 that has been a great saw and is about the right size for anything except large trunks.

I have a Stihl 170 that cuts bigger than the saw is. I use it more than any of my other 3 because it's small and light.

I have a Stihl 310 with a muffler mod, anything big needs cut this is my guy.


For an all around saw a friend has a Stihl 250 and it seems just about right. A Stihl 261 is a great saw too.

My Stihls are over 20 yes old. They run great. Keep chains sharp.

There is an MS180 that had about 10 hours on it in the parts pile a guy brought me, jug and piston scored

Went to bed last night before reading all of this.

Good information. I really appreciate it.

Thanks.

My MS200 has a rear handle. It is the handiest little beast. I paid a small fortune for it NIB shortly after they were discontinued, it was money well spent.

I got a Stihl MS291 that I use all the time around our place. Perfect size for dropping average sized trees (25" or so. Not comfortable doing bigger ones) , limbing up, bucking. I'm tall and it's long enough that I can limb without looking like a question mark at the end of the day.

Haven't had a problem with it starting after sitting for a few months. I run ethanol free in it.

https://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/farm-and-ranch-saws/ms291/